Any Subaru owners?

[RoyJackson]

Thanks,

For someone who has driven standards all their lives from trucks, tractors, cars and motorcycles. I'm having a little trouble with this little 5 speed, starting in first gear I'm either slipping the clutch to much or bucking like a bronco. Stalled it a couple of times in busy traffic :ashamed:

May have something to do it being AWD ? Can't seem to find the sweet spot.

Been driving the car and I like it, I swear the gas gauge doesn't move. At first I thought it was going up, but the way the gauge is, empty is to the right instead of left.

Even driving the car hard I have not noticed the temp gauge rise from it's mid point, only heard the fans come on a couple times. and just for a brief moment.

Oh yeah, anyone have a recommendation on fuel octane? all it says in the book is 87 or above. I have no problem putting 91-93 octane in it if it will benefit the engine in anyway, since it is such a fuel miser.

JB.

You'll find that sweet spot with a little practice.
As far as octane, the 2.5L flat 4 works quite well with regular (87 Octane) fuel.

Even with all the naysayers on this thread, I think you'll find that Suby to be a great little car for kicking around. The Forester is a bit choppy for extended driving (which is why I went with the longer wheelbase Outlook wagon), but for around town up to a few hundred miles...it'll be a great car!

 

[Dmace]

Oh yeah, anyone have a recommendation on fuel octane? all it says in the book is 87 or above. I have no problem putting 91-93 octane in it if it will benefit the engine in anyway, since it is such a fuel miser.

Running a higher octane fuel in a vehicle not designed for it will NEVER give any gains in performance or longevity. It can actually HURT an engine by causing more carbon build-up on the pistons from the slower burn rate of higher octane and can hurt the rest of the system from exhaust to O2 sensors.

 

[JB4310]

Running a higher octane fuel in a vehicle not designed for it will NEVER give any gains in performance or longevity. It can actually HURT an engine by causing more carbon build-up on the pistons from the slower burn rate of higher octane and can hurt the rest of the system from exhaust to O2 sensors.

I know on my 04 grand cherokee it says not to exceed 89 octane, so I put in 89. In the Subaru book it only says not to go below 87, which I don't believe there is a lower octane anyway, but says nothing about going over any octane rating. I would put higher grade in it if there was even the slightest benefit.

JB.

 

[Fireman550]

I have a 2001 Outback with 240,000 and still going strong. We don't get a lot of ice and snow here in Georgia but it took be to work 60 miles one way during this years snow storm. They are GREAT cars! Good Luck!

 

[EE_Bota]

the Auto has no viscous coupling, the slip needed is all handled with the clutch packs. the manual, being directly linked from the engine to the driveshafts needs a "give point" between the front and rear wheels, and that's what a viscous coupling does. I disassembled a broke one last week, it is a series of thin clutches in a special oil.

You know, that makes perfect sense to me now. I have held the viscous coupling in my hand, and there is no way to act on it with a duty solenoid. But the clutch pack, that can be acted on. Thanks for clearing that up.

As for what is inside, I have never seen inside one, but I have read that they have everything you mention and some gas. The gas, upon getting hot, will give a solid lockup...and after it cools, the clutch returns to its normal viscous function. I think I witnessed the lockup once..I was stuck in my own front yard in a heavy snow. I tried the normally accepted driving technique of trying not to spin the wheels too badly. I could not get out. Then I remembered about the gas inside the clutch, and I went crazy on it, spinning right much. The cars behavior changed after a bit of that, and came right out.

 

[JB4310]

I have another question, need an opinion.

So I learned these 2.5 liter Subaru engines are "interference" Type.

Which means when the timing belt breaks the valves can come in violent contact with the pistons.

Internet, it's a great pool of knowledge but can feed the fears of the paranoid :laughing:

Anyway Subaru recommends changing timing belt at 105K, or 7 years. This car only has 76 K but is 10 years old. How worried should I be about timing belt?

Can it be easily inspected? How big a job is doing the timing belt?

I want to take care of this car, I already changed muffler, battery and put on new tires. but that stuff is easy. I'd feel pretty stupid if I destroy the engine for a 50 dollar cam belt.


JB.

 

[Redneck in training]

I have another question, need an opinion.

So I learned these 2.5 liter Subaru engines are "interference" Type.

Which means when the timing belt breaks the valves can come in violent contact with the pistons.

Internet, it's a great pool of knowledge but can feed the fears of the paranoid :laughing:

Anyway Subaru recommends changing timing belt at 105K, or 7 years. This car only has 76 K but is 10 years old. How worried should I be about timing belt?

Can it be easily inspected? How big a job is doing the timing belt?

I want to take care of this car, I already changed muffler, battery and put on new tires. but that stuff is easy. I'd feel pretty stupid if I destroy the engine for a 50 dollar cam belt.


JB.

I think there are two version of the 2.5 liter.

Timing Belt Replacement and Technical Info - Replacement Intervals - Timing Belt Maintenance for Subaru

If I remember it right we changed the belt about two times before we got rid of the car and it was quite expensive. You should probably also change water pump, tensioner and and idler pulleys while you (they) are there. Parts are about $300.

 

[RoyJackson]

I have another question, need an opinion.

So I learned these 2.5 liter Subaru engines are "interference" Type.

Which means when the timing belt breaks the valves can come in violent contact with the pistons.

Internet, it's a great pool of knowledge but can feed the fears of the paranoid :laughing:

Anyway Subaru recommends changing timing belt at 105K, or 7 years. This car only has 76 K but is 10 years old. How worried should I be about timing belt?

Can it be easily inspected? How big a job is doing the timing belt?

I want to take care of this car, I already changed muffler, battery and put on new tires. but that stuff is easy. I'd feel pretty stupid if I destroy the engine for a 50 dollar cam belt.


JB.

Cost us less then $900 for the belt and waterpump replacement...might have even been less then $800. It's been a while, but that was the neighborhood.
I think you'd be safe waiting until 105K miles, but if you're concerned...then do it within the next few thousand miles.
We did our Outback at about 107K. It's a 2004 model.

 

[JB4310]

I think there are two version of the 2.5 liter.

Timing Belt Replacement and Technical Info - Replacement Intervals - Timing Belt Maintenance for Subaru

If I remember it right we changed the belt about two times before we got rid of the car and it was quite expensive. You should probably also change water pump, tensioner and and idler pulleys while you (they) are there. Parts are about $300.

I have to look now which one, I have, reading info on the net, there seems to be different opinions on whether it's SOHC or DOHC. The single cam is not interference?? less prone to some other problems.

Cost us less then $900 for the belt and waterpump replacement...might have even been less then $800. It's been a while, but that was the neighborhood.
I think you'd be safe waiting until 105K miles, but if you're concerned...then do it within the next few thousand miles.
We did our Outback at about 107K. It's a 2004 model.

There's all kinds of tutorial videos on DIY timing belt replacement for Subarus, they make it look easy of course. I have done a timing belt on my wife's old Volvo, it was stupidly easy.
My brother who is much more mechanical than I am said he had the shop do his timing belt on his 01 Outback, so if he didn't want to do it makes me wonder...

JB.

 

[RoyJackson]

There's all kinds of tutorial videos on DIY timing belt replacement for Subarus, they make it look easy of course. I have done a timing belt on my wife's old Volvo, it was stupidly easy.
My brother who is much more mechanical than I am said he had the shop do his timing belt on his 01 Outback, so if he didn't want to do it makes me wonder...

JB.

Why not ask him why he didn't do it?

IIRC, some (if not most) shops drop the engine out to do the job. I'm pretty sure (but not positive) the shop that did mine pulled the radiator.

 

[EE_Bota]

Apparently there are timing belt kits online. Many of these come with all needed components. If I find an independent Subaru mechanic that suits me, I will let them do the work, if not, I will do it myself.

If you are not bad out of the time window, you could go for the mileage window, but all in all, time and mileage have an effect on the belt, so it doesn't pay to play around.

 

[JB4310]

Apparently there are timing belt kits online. Many of these come with all needed components. If I find an independent Subaru mechanic that suits me, I will let them do the work, if not, I will do it myself.

If you are not bad out of the time window, you could go for the mileage window, but all in all, time and mileage have an effect on the belt, so it doesn't pay to play around.

Actually saw in another maintenance schedule 105K or 105 months, that's almost 9 years. Dealer said 7,
Interestingly I got a carfax for this car out of curiosity after I bought it and it shows dealer performed services, just says performed scheduled maintenance but if it was there at the 7 year mark, maybe the dealer did the work, I'll have to call them.

I'm gonna pull that smaller cover off the driver side and take a look, see if the timing belt looks original. This engine is definitely the Single overhead cam, but there is some confusion if all 2.5 Subaru engines are interference type or just the DOHC. If the SOHC was not interference and would not do damage if the belt broke I wouldn't worry about it.

This car drives like it's on a rail, I was trying to get it to break loose on wet pavement yesterday, cornering pretty aggressively and it stuck tight, must be the AWD?

JB.

 

[RoyJackson]

This car drives like it's on a rail, I was trying to get it to break loose on wet pavement yesterday, cornering pretty aggressively and it stuck tight, must be the AWD?

JB.

Yep...it's great, isn't it?
As long as you have decent tread on the tires, that Forester will really stick (as does our Outback).

 

[techwrtr2]

allowable limits for oil consumption can be 1 qt in 3000 miles. I have seen some do this.

My 02 WRX wagon uses a quart in a little over 3k miles. Has since I bought it at 35.5k.

It now has 214k on the clock.

Original brakes lasted me to 100k. I did them when I had the timing belt replaced the first time. I really should just buy OEM brakes rather than aftermarket as they've not lasted nearly as long. I've replaced timing belts twice now. Done service every 30k miles. New brakes several times, see previous comment. I replaced the accessory belts a year ago, just in time. Oops. Struts at 130k. I may need to consider them again soon but my job is now different and I don't drive nearly as much so that might be a while. I just had the clutch done a few months ago, lasted me to just over 210k miles. I had to have the turbo up pipe replaced at the last timing belt change, it cracked. I gather it's a common problem at the flex joint. No other major repairs.

Car averages 27mpg doing 99% interstate travel if I maintain 65mph. I've had averages in the low 30's when my speed averages about 55mph over the tank. I put winter tires on it each year and have found it to be the best car I've ever driven in snow. Given a choice, I will take my WRX over my Jeep in bad weather. Only advantage to the Jeep is larger tires and modestly greater ground clearance. One thing my WRX has that many other cars don't is a limited slip in the rear. I'm sure that enhances it some.

It's very likely that when I finally decide to replace this car that it will be another Subaru. Either another WRX 5door, maybe a Legacy though I've considered a Forester XT. Time and money will decide.

 

[SPYDERLK]

This car drives like it's on a rail, I was trying to get it to break loose on wet pavement yesterday, cornering pretty aggressively and it stuck tight, must be the AWD?
JB.

Yes, Subarus behave very well cornering and slide predictably at the limit. Very little tendency to switch ends in a slide. I think it is chassis tuning and weight distribution rather than 4wd. My 4wd Subaru behaves well but cannot rival the handling of my former 2wd at the limits. This is especially noticeable on gravel and snow. The 4wd fronts and backs fight each other enuf to cause some sliding. The 4wd is comparatively very loose on slippery surfaces. A disappointment. OH well.
larry

 

[JB4310]

Yes, Subarus behave very well cornering and slide predictably at the limit. Very little tendency to switch ends in a slide. I think it is chassis tuning and weight distribution rather than 4wd. My 4wd Subaru behaves well but cannot rival the handling of my former 2wd at the limits. This is especially noticeable on gravel and snow. The 4wd fronts and backs fight each other enuf to cause some sliding. The 4wd is comparatively very loose on slippery surfaces. A disappointment. OH well.
larry

Funny you mention tuning and weight, when I was creeping around underneath I saw a small block of steel stuck up underneath, near the front of the fuel tank, in a spot I couldn't figure out what it might be for. the only thing I could think of was some type of ballast???

As far as it sliding a little in 4x4, should be good for me. I was worried that since there was no way to lock out 4x4 I couldn't slide around in the snow like a juvenile, the way I do in every other vehicle I've ever owned with rear wheel drive :laughing:

JB.

 

[techwrtr2]

Not sure how well it works in "normal" Subarus, but my WRX will pull some awesome power slides and cool donuts. You can flick the rear around in snow with a bit of throttle.

And of course it's unstoppable in snow. Or well it sure seems like it.

 

[Redneck in training]

Not sure how well it works in "normal" Subarus, but my WRX will pull some awesome power slides and cool donuts. You can flick the rear around in snow with a bit of throttle.

And of course it's unstoppable in snow. Or well it sure seems like it.

What he forgot to tell you is that WRX has powerfull turbocharged engine in the smallest Subaru Impreza. I bet it is fun.

 

[techwrtr2]

What he forgot to tell you is that WRX has powerfull turbocharged engine in the smallest Subaru Impreza. I bet it is fun.

It is a fun little car. And being a wagon has utility. For 5+ years I beat the tar out of it as a field service car for my old tech job. Just had to keep my parts packed tightly.

 

[JB4310]

It is a fun little car. And being a wagon has utility. For 5+ years I beat the tar out of it as a field service car for my old tech job. Just had to keep my parts packed tightly.

Yeah, I've been enjoying this car. you can lug it around like a little old lady or drive it hard like a rally car. Can't wait til it snows!

I did the timing belt today, well I should say I started it cause I didn't have all the parts to finish it. I didn't start til late in the day, at first I was just gonna look at it, so I took the small cover off. didn't look to bad but definitely not new so I know it's 10+ years old.

Then I just said the heck with it I'm gonna do this, watched a bunch of tutorials on YouTube so I knew what to look for. It was really pretty simple. 3 small size wrenches and sockets and a breaker bar and larger socket for the main crank pulley.

The tensioner did not look to healthy so I got a new one and just figured might as well get all three idlers. At 76,000 I'm not gonna do the seals and water pump. $350 in parts (genuine Subaru) so not to bad. still have to pick up one idler in the morning. I think I got all the marks right, it's like painting by numbers
Just hope it all comes out right.

The ten year old belt looked pretty good with no cracking at all, so maybe it could of went the 30,000 more miles to get to 105K. but it was bothering me thinking about it being past due to change due to it's age.

JB