YM1700 front tire wobble

[Ginormous]

My front tires are leaning out some on my YM1700. Some folks said that was normal on here, but one was leaning more than the other, so I was suspicious still. I've attached pictures from the front where you can see the difference in lean between the 2 tires. I found that (with the tires off the ground) I could wobble the tires in and out in the camber direction (same direction it was leaning.) The front-right(RF) tire the total movement measured at the top of the tire was only 1/16", but the left-front(LF) the movement was 3/8". When I spin that LF tire, it's not as smooth as the RF. Perhaps the castle nut just needs tightened, but I'm thinking the bearings may need replaced. I need to get a 30 mm socket to tighten or take off the castle nut. Thoughts?

 

[deepNdirt]

Sounds like what has be mentioned in your other thread pull the castle nuts check the bearings & spindles, if your lucky the spindles or not too badly worn and can get by with replacing the bearings, also look into the hub for any wear marks ,

 

[winston1]

If you are talking about the wheel bearing castle nut it should not be much more than hand tight. Is your slack in the wheel bearings or spindle bearing and bushing? Yanmar Tractor Parts: FRONT_AXLE_2WD

 

[deepNdirt]

I was calling it the spindle when I should have been calling it the axle & bearing, sorry for any confusion

 

[Ginormous]

If you are talking about the wheel bearing castle nut it should not be much more than hand tight. Is your slack in the wheel bearings or spindle bearing and bushing? Yanmar Tractor Parts: FRONT_AXLE_2WD

Winston1 -- Looking at the part diagram from Hoye, I would say the slack is between the horizontal piece of the spindle and the the #12 bearing, but I haven't pulled it off to examine it yet. The seal does not appear to be leaking, and it was packed with grease when I pulled off the hub cap.


deepNdirt -- Yes, this is part of the issue from my other thread, but I thought it might be better to split this off on a new thread because the discussion on that one has wandered a bit.

 

[shawnjvl]

The frt bearings are ball bearings, there is no adjustment with castle nut. If the wheels are loose you will have to replace the bearings, your talking maybe $24.00 for all four bearings. I had to do the same thing to my YM2000.

 

[winston1]

The frt bearings are ball bearings, there is no adjustment with castle nut. If the wheels are loose you will have to replace the bearing, your talking maybe $24.00 for all four bearings. I had to do the same thing to my YM2000.

Yep, I didn't look at the drawing close enough, just assumed tapered roller bearings. Castle nut might be pretty tight.

 

[deepNdirt]

deepNdirt -- Yes, this is part of the issue from my other thread, but I thought it might be better to split this off on a new thread because the discussion on that one has wandered a bit.

Oh! i didn't mean anything by this, Your intitled to make all the treads you want I was simply pointing out that there were some suggestions made about this issue in your other thread, You're basically going to get the same suggestions,
and yes things do tend to get side tract at times

 

[Gary Sweat]

Check the fit of the wheel bearing inside of the hub. These hubs can enlarge over time and will give considerable amount of wobble. If the bearings do not slide into the hubs snugly, then you might want to replace the hubs. Mine had worn and I machined the inside diameter larger and made shim rings to tighten them back up. Buying new hubs is expensive but a much easier remedy than shimming.

 

[Ginormous]

Check the fit of the wheel bearing inside of the hub. These hubs can enlarge over time and will give considerable amount of wobble. If the bearings do not slide into the hubs snugly, then you might want to replace the hubs. Mine had worn and I machined the inside diameter larger and made shim rings to tighten them back up. Buying new hubs is expensive but a much easier remedy than shimming.

An expanded hub sounds likely.

I took off the cotter pin & castle nut and then a washer. Can someone tell me how to get the first bearing out?I've never replaced a wheel bearing before.

 

[winston1]

This Yanmar Tractor Parts: FRONT HUB 2WD should pull off (maybe tap off) the spindle with the bearings in it. The back bearing has a snap ring behind it. Once you get the hub off you can drive the bearings out of it. They should be an interference fit.

 

[Ginormous]

This Yanmar Tractor Parts: FRONT HUB 2WD should pull off (maybe tap off) the spindle with the bearings in it. The back bearing has a snap ring behind it. Once you get the hub off you can drive the bearings out of it. They should be an interference fit.

Ok, I'll "encourage it" a little. I just yanked on it with my hands and it didn't budge.

 

[piotrbpm]

PL
Witam ostatnio wymieniałem łożyska w swoim YM2000B( w YM1700 są identyczne ) są to 6204 i 6205 simering to 35x52x11 ( u nas w pl jest 35x52x10)
Troszkę dziwne że są to łozyska toczne a nie stożkowe ,w dodatku katalogowo jedno łozysko ma wytrzymałość około 140kg co daje 280kg wytrzymałości na jedno koło .
A jak dobrze pamiętam w (YM1700) przód waży 330kg + obciążniki 100kg co daje 430kg ,a max nacisk na przednią oś to 700kg

Mam katalog części oraz instrukcję do YM1700 jakby ktoś chciał chętnie się podziele

Pozdrawiam Piotr

ANG
Hi, recently I changed the bearings in your YM2000B (in YM1700 the same) are the 6204 and 6205 the oil seal 35x52x11 (with us in the pl is 35x52x10)
A bit strange that they are not rolling bearings and tapered, in addition katalogowo bearing has a strength of approximately 140kg 280kg which gives the strength of a wheel.
And as I can remember in the (YM1700) front weighs 330kg + 100kg weights 430kg which gives a maximum pressure on the front axle is 700kg

I have a catalog of parts and instructions for YM1700 if someone wanted gladly will share

Regards Peter