Snow Plowing a Gravel Drive - Problem Solved!!!

[jambx]

I just thought I would share something that I think worked really well for me. I knew well ahead of time I was going to be frustrated this winter plowing my newly installed stone driveway so I began to look at ways to mitigate the effect the cutting edge on my rear blade had on the gravel surface. Someone in the past posted how well ABS (not PVC) pipe worked when fitted to the blade edge. Sounded like it would work and purchased a 10 foot length of 2 inch for $20. I gave it a shot (well two shots). After the first storm of the year (12 inches) it worked like a charm....well almost until right at the end of the plowing the stone wore it down to the point it just cracked. I replaced with the second piece and it too showed major wear so it was evident this ABS pipe route was not going to work.

I then remembered someone here stated how well Horse Stall Mat worked as a blade edge (Tractor Supply 4'x6' mat - $39). So I run out and picked up a mat, cut a strip and bolted it on. The next storm (18 inches) it worked like a charm - actually pushed the majority of snow with almost no ill effect to the stone (which is small pea like gravel).

So, I now have an awesome snow blade for gravel, it wears like iron (after plowing showed no wear) and I can use the remainder as a nice foot mat in front of my work bench until I need to make another - hey I have enough to make 4 more!!!

Cheers,

~jim

 

[timswi]

Yup..I've been doing the same thing with machine belts for years..Works great for aggregate driveways.

 

[snpower]

Would this work just as well on a smaller BX2360? I have a similar drive, and the tractor is new to me but I know it doesn't have the 1/4 inching on the 3 point hitch.

 

[jambx]

Would this work just as well on a smaller BX2360? I have a similar drive, and the tractor is new to me but I know it doesn't have the 1/4 inching on the 3 point hitch.

Forget 1/4 inch'ing - as you can see I have 3 inches of the mat expoused below the cutting edge - all I do is drop the blade until it just hits the surface although I can drop it down furthur if I need more down pressure on the surface in one of the pics you will see it smashed on the ground and even under this condition the blade floated over the stone. I acually have more control like this than 1/4 inching. It would work just find with your 2360.

 

[Country1]

Awesome idea!
Think I'm going to steal it....:laughing:

 

[NHbotanut]

do you think it would work on a front mounted plow blade? I was going to go order some special UHMW pipe to put on the blades cutting edge ( Graingers $56/10' section). I tried the pipe last storm ( 22" ) but the cold shattered it. It did work awesome up to that point.

 

[jambx]

do you think it would work on a front mounted plow blade? I was going to go order some special UHMW pipe to put on the blades cutting edge ( Graingers $56/10' section). I tried the pipe last storm ( 22" ) but the cold shattered it. It did work awesome up to that point.

I am personally done with plastic pipe and anything to do with plowing. The stall mat material is very robust and resilient so I would assume it would work quite well when attached to a front blade lip - I would assume the cutting edge of the plow is bolted like a rear blade so it should be a easy install.

 

[Country1]

I'm going to try it on a front blade. A Meyer 8' converted truck plow, but I'm going to use a piece of old quarry conveyor belt I have. Hopefully it won't be too stiff and will be able to flex over.

 

[ND teacher]

Anyone have any ideas out there on what to put on the front of a snow or dirt bucket so when i push the snow into the grass it doesnt dig up the sod? I heard of people bolting a pipe to the bottom of a cutting edge? However i want to get close enough to the gravel driveway so that my wifes car can get in and out without spinning all the way out or sinking in the snow 2-3 inches.

 

[legbuh]

Is there a reason you guys don't use plow skid shoes? Most are adjustable for height and you could probably even fab most of them yourself. The shoes themselves are pretty cheap as replacement parts.

I have them on my ATV blade and they work great for gravel driveways.

 

[vulcancowboy]

I wonder how this would work on a blacktop drive? I don't like the way my standard blade leaves marks. Also, how did you drill the holes through the rubber?

 

[farmeratheart]

I wonder how this would work on a blacktop drive? I don't like the way my standard blade leaves marks. Also, how did you drill the holes through the rubber?

I did this before the winter of 2009-2010 for my backblade (plowing with JD2305). It came through the record snowfall winter just fine. I am still using the same edge. It works on my blacktop driveway whether the snow is powdery or 'wet'. In fact, last night I removed about 1.5" of slush from the pavement- it sort of acts like a giant squeegee! About the only thing it wont remove is a layer of ice. The idea was obtained from this site. If you do a search I'm sure that you will find more than enough info on the "how". I used a spade bit in a cordless drill to drill the holes in the strip of mat that was cut off a full sheet with a sawz-all.

Good Luck!

Frank

 

[NHbotanut]

Thanks for the reply.

I will stop by TSC to pick up a mat on the way home tonight. I'll post results this weekend.

 

[Country1]

Is there a reason you guys don't use plow skid shoes? Most are adjustable for height and you could probably even fab most of them yourself. The shoes themselves are pretty cheap as replacement parts.

I have them on my ATV blade and they work great for gravel driveways.

I haven't tried skid shoes on my rear blade, but have them on my front blade (8' converted truck plow). They work ok on pavement, but gouge down too far on gravel. Then they become useless. Or worse than useless because of the deep tracks they leave behind as they plow through the ground. If the ground was frozen solid, I think they'd work just fine, but that's rarely the case here in VA.

 

[DavidAubke]

I've been thinking of doing something like this but didn't know where to get the material. Also, I wouldn't have attached nearly as much to my blade as you did but I think that's a good idea so I'm glad I saw yours first.

Do you plow in reverse? If it's going to fold over like that, do you think it works better with the ribbed surface in contact with the ground?

 

[radioman]

Would this work just as well on a smaller BX2360? I have a similar drive, and the tractor is new to me but I know it doesn't have the 1/4 inching on the 3 point hitch.

what makes you say that? you need to pull the lever towards the seat and hold there before moving it up/down. you will feel a metal stop to go in quarter inching mode. its called slow up and slow down as per owner manual.

 

[timswi]

I wonder how this would work on a blacktop drive? I don't like the way my standard blade leaves marks. Also, how did you drill the holes through the rubber?

Works perfect on Paved driveways.

I bought 2 piees of 2" by 4' 1/8" steel and welded them together.

Cut it to the width of the plow.

Clamped the home made piece to the cutting edge with the bottoms lined up.

Drill 6 hiles through the bar and the cutting edge (this will wipe out some drill bits depending on your cutting edge).

Cut a piece of 1/4" thick machine belt 6" wide by the width of the plow+1" on each side. The overside allows it to be flipped over if needed for a fresh edge.

Use the home-made piece as a template to drill the holes in the rubber. be sure to center the piece with 2" top and bottom.

I used an angle grinder to slightly round the outer edge of the cutting edge and the bottom edge so it won't dig into the rubber.

Place the rubber on the cutting edge with the new bar on the outside and assemble with stainless bolts and lock washers.

I pulled the skid shoes all the way up and use them only for a resting point when the machine isn't in use. Place a couple of 2X4's under the shoes so that the rubber doesnt get deformed from sitting.

Done this with and ATV and 2 RTV's. Works great on everything. Doesn't dig up gravel once the ground is somewhat frozen. Won't dig into sod and won't scratch paved driveways.

Can post pictures of the final product if interested.

 

[PILOON]

Another consideration is the angle of attack.
If you plow is set up with the blade face leaning backwards, it will dig in.
Tilted forewards and it will ride up and over. The ideal is with the push arms parallel to the ground and a vertical blade.
Ever notice that all the truck mounted plows have 3 or so holes to accomplish just that 'angle of attack'?

Generally you should start the season tilted forewards to build up a solid base and later re-adjust to have the plow cutting the snow off of that hard base.
Naturally mushroom type skids or shoes help.

Often on first wet snows with unfrozen ground we'd drag the plow backwards just to compact the first snows.

I plowed with a heavy Fisher 8 ft blade on mostly gravel drives and that technique worked just fine, In fact when that base was set up I remouved the shoes for the balance of the winters.
I plowed for about 14 seasons.

 

[ToadHill]

It also looks like when it wears you can flip it over and get another years worth of use.

 

[jambx]

I wonder how this would work on a blacktop drive? I don't like the way my standard blade leaves marks. Also, how did you drill the holes through the rubber?

I used the same hole saw bit I bought to drill out the holes in my bucket for my tooth-bar. I drill one side almost completely through than drill from the other side - ya have to work it slowly since the rubber plug will be a #$@# to get out if you go drill only from one side and the plug seats itself in the bit.

I've been thinking of doing something like this but didn't know where to get the material. Also, I wouldn't have attached nearly as much to my blade as you did but I think that's a good idea so I'm glad I saw yours first.

I would agree I used more than I needed. but I like the idea of being able to not only flip it but reverse it if when the edge becomes worn and the fact I have a lot of material to squeeze between the metal edge and the blade. Make sure you get longer bolts!

Do you plow in reverse? If it's going to fold over like that, do you think it works better with the ribbed surface in contact with the ground?

Yes, I do plow in reverse and thought the same but ended up going this way as I wanted to have as much give to the edge when contacted with the ground. Its a work in progress so I may flip it but it does work great!

It also looks like when it wears you can flip it over and get another years worth of use.

Yes but at the current rate that it wears it will be many years :thumbsup:

Oh and reason I dont like skid shoes os the same reason discussed here. I find they dig in too much and leave marks on asphalt.