Adding 3rd function valve, top link, side link, and one extra. How???

[Piston]

That valve is perfect....
I suggest buying the valve(s), and getting them mounted before ordering any fittings or hoses so you can draw up a "map" of everything needed.

Do you want to go the "diverter" route or the solenoid valve route?

Thanks for the suggestion Kennyd, I'll do it that way.

As for the diverter or soloenoid valve, I would prefer the solenoid I think because I would like to operate the grapple with just the toggle switch, rather than the diverter.
Other than cost, are there any disadvantages to doing it this way? Is it harder to install or anything?

Would you recommend just going with the WRLong valve?

 

[teg]

TEG....What is the needle valve used for? Do I need one of those?...

You use a needle valve to slow down the hydraulics... You can slow it down to a crawl... for accuracy and so it doesn't jerk the box blade around too fast. (got the idea from Kennyd) You don't have to have it, if you can feather speed with the valve, you'll be fine. I got the valves so it would be safer for my wife.

Not sure why you would go with either the diverter or solenoid for the grapple (or is this for something else that I missed? backhoe/logsplitter), run it from the new valve for the cost of the hose... Personally, I would think the button to switch from the curl to the grapple is confusing... I rather grab another lever and know what it does when I use it...

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Personally, I would think the button to switch from the curl to the grapple is confusing... I rather grab another lever and know what it does when I use it...

Soooooo, which lever do you pull? The button or toggle switch becomes second nature just as pulling a certain lever does. I think that it is very nice when working with the loader to have all the controls on 1 stick, but that may just be me.

 

[Piston]

The needle valve sounds useful, is that something I could add inline down the road if I decided I wanted it?

The diverter vs. solenoid thing sounds like a purely personal choice. From what I've read on here (a LOT) some people prefer the rear hydraulics running forward and using the valve, some prefer the diverter, and some prefer the solenoid. My personal preference based on my own thoughts is that I would prefer the solenoid...but it's not an absolute must.

I operated a smaller tractor with grapple a couple months ago (granted for only 1 hour) and was moving logs around with it, it had the rear valve operating the grapple. I didn't like that setup even though I know I would have eventually gotten used to it.

 

[J_J]

A diverter/selector valves uses a solenoid to switch/divert hyd flow.

A single solenoid valve will switch a valve on or off.

A DA solenoid valve will switch a circuit, as in fwd/rev.


You do understand that if you use a solenoid valve like the one below, you will have no feather action, and no PB outlet. but you can mount three of these on a D03 sub plate, and use three switches to operate them. .

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-6136&catname=hydraulic

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?catname=hydraulic&item=9-5883-3

If you use a selector/diverter valve like this, you will have feather action from the FEL valve.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7852&catname=hydraulic

If you do not have detent on one of the rear valves, you will have to bungee one of the levers in a constant flow condition. for things like log splitter, hyd PHD, etc.

A grapple usually needs a feather action for delicate operations.

 

[Piston]

You do understand that if you use a solenoid valve like the one below, you will have no feather action, and no PB outlet. but you can mount three of these on a D03 sub plate, and use three switches to operate them. .

I did not know that, thanks for pointing it out. :thumbsup:

 

[kennyd]

I did not know that, thanks for pointing it out. :thumbsup:

But that's where the needle valves come into play MANY happy users of solenoid valves...nobody complains.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the suggestion Kennyd, I'll do it that way.

As for the diverter or soloenoid valve, I would prefer the solenoid I think because I would like to operate the grapple with just the toggle switch, rather than the diverter.
Other than cost, are there any disadvantages to doing it this way? Is it harder to install or anything?

Would you recommend just going with the WRLong valve?

Since you are doing all the other work yourself... I would just get the valve from the SC. But, OTOH, the WR long comes with the handle mounted switch and hoses to the front...but it's really your call in the end.

 

[kennyd]

Soooooo, which lever do you pull? The button or toggle switch becomes second nature just as pulling a certain lever does. I think that it is very nice when working with the loader to have all the controls on 1 stick, but that may just be me.

I agree...I have a diverter to operate my former FEL mounted plow and now my grapple. It becomes second nature after little use. But I do have a regular solenoid valve in the basement, just haven't plumbed it in yet.

 

[Piston]

But that's where the needle valves come into play MANY happy users of solenoid valves...nobody complains.

Oh boy....I'm starting to get overwhelmed......:laughing:

 

[kennyd]

Oh boy....I'm starting to get overwhelmed......:laughing:

Na, your doin' fine bro...Just stay on track with me:thumbsup:

I forgot to add to the above reply that you can always add the needle valves later if you think you need them-like if the grapple moves to fast.

 

[teg]

Na, your doin' fine bro...Just stay on track with me...

:thumbsup: If you have problems or questions... He's the man, heck, if *I* can do it... anyone can... don't sweat it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

:thumbsup: If you have problems or questions... He's the man, heck, if *I* can do it... anyone can... don't sweat it.[/quote]

That's the truth. :laughing: Just kidding teg, I couldn't pass up the opportunity.

 

[Piston]

Thanks guys. I'm sure I'll learn a whole heck of a lot in the process.

Here is my situation. I'm away from home for the next 2 and a half weeks which of course is where the tractor is, so I can't do anything until then. SO what I'm trying to do is learn as much as I can so when I get home I can get to work on adding hydraulics. I want to figure out (with all you guys help of course) exactly WHAT I need and exactly HOW to do it. So far I think I have the valve all set, I'll buy the one previously posted, the 14gpm one.

I'm going to do it in two steps like Kennyd suggested. I'll buy the all the parts except the fittings and hoses, then mount the fittings and measure off everything I need, and order the hoses and connectors.

So far I can check the valve off the list. I guess now that I think about it there really aren't all that many parts when you don't count the hoses and connections?

So lets see, what will I need for the electric over hydraulic solenoid setup for the grapple? I think I'll go that route and plumb in a needle valve (wow I'm using all these technical terms now eh? )

I'm not sure if I'll attempt to do that part of it myself or just spring for the WR Long setup. Does anyone know offhand a rough price of the kit? I think I remember reading around $500 but I'm not positive. Seems they include everything I need and that would nice.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks guys. I'm sure I'll learn a whole heck of a lot in the process.

Here is my situation. I'm away from home for the next 2 and a half weeks which of course is where the tractor is, so I can't do anything until then. SO what I'm trying to do is learn as much as I can so when I get home I can get to work on adding hydraulics. I want to figure out (with all you guys help of course) exactly WHAT I need and exactly HOW to do it. So far I think I have the valve all set, I'll buy the one previously posted, the 14gpm one.

I'm going to do it in two steps like Kennyd suggested. I'll buy the all the parts except the fittings and hoses, then mount the fittings and measure off everything I need, and order the hoses and connectors.

So far I can check the valve off the list. I guess now that I think about it there really aren't all that many parts when you don't count the hoses and connections?

So lets see, what will I need for the electric over hydraulic solenoid setup for the grapple? I think I'll go that route and plumb in a needle valve (wow I'm using all these technical terms now eh? )

I'm not sure if I'll attempt to do that part of it myself or just spring for the WR Long setup. Does anyone know offhand a rough price of the kit? I think I remember reading around $500 but I'm not positive. Seems they include everything I need and that would nice.

The WR long kit will probably be closer to $600-$650.

Here is a solenoid valve: Surplus Center - 12 VDC 10 GPM OC DA SOLENOID VALVE
Note that you would also need the subplate and 2 of the special electric connectors.

Starting at post #24 in this thread from Rob (3RRL) there is great info on them in detail: My very own grapples! - TractorByNet.com

Keep searching threads in the Hydraulics forum since you have time...everything we have discussed has all been gone over many times before

 

[Ductape]

I'm not sure if I'll attempt to do that part of it myself or just spring for the WR Long setup. Does anyone know offhand a rough price of the kit? I think I remember reading around $500 but I'm not positive. Seems they include everything I need and that would nice.

I'd speculate on $550 - 600 For the W R Long kit ( + $100 for the bulkhead kit if you so choose). You can certainly put the elec/hydraulic set-up together yourself for a little less, but the W R Long kit comes complete and ready to install. Like anything else...... depends on what your time is worth to you.

 

[Ductape]

Dang it.......... Kenny ninja'd me !

 

[jcliburn]

I posted my recent 3rd function valve experience over in the Kubota Owning/Operating forum. You may or may not find it useful.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/192572-w-r-long-kit-plus.html

Good luck,
Jay

 

[Piston]

I posted my recent 3rd function valve experience over in the Kubota Owning/Operating forum. You may or may not find it useful.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/192572-w-r-long-kit-plus.html

Good luck,
Jay

I did find your thread and found it extremely useful, thanks for posting it. I'll also read through it again as I find that each time I reread some old threads I notice/remember something I didn't see before.
Thanks again :thumbsup:

 

[dixstir]

question--I have a jd 2305 with loader and it has a manual diverder I want to run another cylinder and still us my controls need help dixstir.