Modifying chains

/ Modifying chains #1  

MikeInEburg

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
1,088
Location
Emmitsburg, MD
Tractor
Kubota B7800
Greetings.
I purchased 2nd hand chains last winter for a very good price, even though they weren't exactly the correct size. They were OK, but had a lot of slop. My goal is to modify before the snow flies in earnest.

The chains are duo-grip style. Visualize the chain that goes around the inside/outside perimeter of the tire with one link horizontal, the next link vertical, next horizontal, etc. Right now all of the cross-chains are attached to horizontal links. What I need to do is remove one link between each cross-chain attachment point. The result will be that one cross-chain will be on a horizontal link, and the next on a vertical link. There will be five links between these two points. The question (you knew there HAD to be a question buried in here somewhere) is - will that put undue pressure on the links, leading to premature failure?

Question two: does anyone have a great way to open the claws on the side chains - other than hammer/chisel/vice combo? With essentially 96 "claws" to open, I'm thinking of a rig involving my wood splitter - but the safety angel on my right shoulder keeps telling me to forget it. I don't have a shop press.

Thanks
Mike
 
/ Modifying chains #2  
There is a tool for opening and closing links, don't know what it's called, but if you find one, make sure it's well made, I've seen lots of cheap one's that are weak. Aaron
 
/ Modifying chains #3  
I believe www.tirechains.com has such a tool. Their tutorial for installing chains suggests using a cold chisel to spread the link...not sure I'd want to do that for 96 claws.

ADDED: They do have the tool you need...look on the left of the screen for tire chain repair.
 
/ Modifying chains #4  
As mentioned, there is a tool that works great. I borrowed one from a garage that ran trucks.
As to the cross chains being on the just the even links (horizontal), I made mine up with the plan you would like to do, because that worked best. I don't think there is any problem (have been running my tractor chains over 10 years now) having one cross chain on a vertical link and the next one attached to a horizontal. A little bit of twist to the side chain, but the chain just doesn't seem to mind at all. :D
I think you should carry out your plan.
 

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/ Modifying chains #5  
Greetings.
I purchased 2nd hand chains last winter for a very good price, even though they weren't exactly the correct size. They were OK, but had a lot of slop. My goal is to modify before the snow flies in earnest.

The chains are duo-grip style. Visualize the chain that goes around the inside/outside perimeter of the tire with one link horizontal, the next link vertical, next horizontal, etc. Right now all of the cross-chains are attached to horizontal links. What I need to do is remove one link between each cross-chain attachment point. The result will be that one cross-chain will be on a horizontal link, and the next on a vertical link. There will be five links between these two points. The question (you knew there HAD to be a question buried in here somewhere) is - will that put undue pressure on the links, leading to premature failure?

Question two: does anyone have a great way to open the claws on the side chains - other than hammer/chisel/vice combo? With essentially 96 "claws" to open, I'm thinking of a rig involving my wood splitter - but the safety angel on my right shoulder keeps telling me to forget it. I don't have a shop press.

Thanks
Mike

Have you tried using chain tighteners after you install the chains? They help take out some slop.
 
/ Modifying chains
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Have you tried using chain tighteners after you install the chains? They help take out some slop.

We used bungees last year to take up the slop - but it was a lot of slop. Because the bungees aren't super-tight, they allow the chains to twist up and start catching bolt heads on inside of fender. By my calculations, I'll be removing 12'' of side chain and am trying to look "long term".

I saw the tool on tirechains.com - probably a good way to go. They'll cost about the same as what I paid for the chains... but in the end, I'll still be ahead of the game. Or maybe I'll buy a small shop press and make up a jig - and have a more widely functional tool when I'm finished. Now to convince "She who must be obeyed"...

Mike
 
/ Modifying chains #7  
Properly fit tire chains will need no tighteners.
Good luck on fixing up a jig to open the cross chain holders. They are not real difficult, and a well-thought out jig with cold chisel and bfh will work. They don't have to be opened much to unhook them.
1-2 hours of punch, hammer and channel locks will have it done.
 
/ Modifying chains #8  
If you have a local truck stop or even a truck sales / parts warehouse around , they may also carry the tool you are looking for . Bought mine at our local freightliner dealer . Also have a couple of bags of cross links .

With the tool , takes maybe 3 or 4 minutes to replace 2 to 4 cross lengths per chain when I am the repairing mode . Usually end up replacing 1 or 2 cross lengths total on the 6 chains that I normally run when I have to chain up . Just depends on how much bare pavement California makes me run on .:mad:

Fred H.
 
/ Modifying chains
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Why not just shorten one end of the chains?:confused:

I wish it were so easy... The duo-grip style has cross-chains that are connected in the center of the tread which keeps constant the side chain distance between points where the cross-chain connects. I essentially need to lose two inches (one link) between cross-chain connection points to make my slop go away.
Mike
 
/ Modifying chains #11  
I'm guessing you can't just cut the excess chain off because of the pattern of the cross links? Is it possible to modify just the end of the chain and leave the rest as is?
 
/ Modifying chains #12  
Been There, Done That. Go - buy the tool. You'll be thankful. It really makes a difference.
 
/ Modifying chains #14  
I like the chain tensioners. I installed the tensioners using a ratchet tie down strap hooked through the center ring on one end and the other hooked to the tire chain on top of the tire. I worked around the tire tightening each spring a chain link at a time. These chains have stayed tight for six weeks now. I have done a lot of dirt and gravel work with the loader with these chains on.
 

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/ Modifying chains #15  
They are called chain pliers. You can get them at tirechains.com. there are three different sizes.
 
/ Modifying chains #16  
I like the chain tensioners. I installed the tensioners using a ratchet tie down strap hooked through the center ring on one end and the other hooked to the tire chain on top of the tire. I worked around the tire tightening each spring a chain link at a time. These chains have stayed tight for six weeks now. I have done a lot of dirt and gravel work with the loader with these chains on.

Wow - that is one serious set of chains you have there. :drool:
 
/ Modifying chains #17  
I had to tighten my chains last winter... the photo shows them BEFORE I took out some slop, etc. In my case, the circumferential (if that's the word) chains were not hardened, but the cross chains were. The hardened links will crack when you try to open them/close them, so be sure you know what you are dealing with before you start opening them. I had good luck with a vise and various prying tools. The earlier poster who mentioned getting them tangled is right on. Getting them the right size is good, once you get there.
 

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/ Modifying chains #18  
Would bolt cutters work to spread these? They might tend to only open one side but maybe by adding a steel spacer between the two hooks you could force the second side to open.

Could a couple of clevises placed stategically around the side chains take up the slack?
 
/ Modifying chains #19  
varmint
I think they are referred to as "side chains" vs. cross chains.

Do you have a pic of the chains after you made them to fit? That must have been a real challenge. Simple ladder chains can be headache enough keeping the ends from knotting up.
I've found that the cross chain double hooks are pliable and haven't had them crack when opening (just enough to unhook them) and closing. Maybe there are different steel and agree that the side chains are not hardened for surface travel.
 
/ Modifying chains #20  
Get a tool that Sumpter suggested. I borrowed a chain plier from my neighbor and made chains for my lawn tractor from an old set of truck chains. It was an old set but really worked great. That's the way to go.
 

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