Testing brake controller

[Hooked_on_HP]

I have a Tekonsha Primus brake controller in my motorhome. I pull a 28' enclosed trailer that weighs about 8k. Last weekend when I left home every thing worked fine. When I was on the wayback home I almost went through a red light because the trailer brakes weren't working properly. I took apart the plug on both sides and every thing is clean there. When I apply the brakes I can feel the trailer brakes come on but not verry strong. I even moved the manual lever to full brake and it barley slowed me down. Is there a way to make sure I am getting full power to the plug. Like a load test.All the diagnostics on the controller say it is working properly. This controller is only about 2 yrs old.
Bill

 

[Jim Thompson]

You may need to adjust the brake shoes if they haven't been done in a while. Of course, they could also need replacing. Just had to replace the ones on my 14' tandem enclosed. Shoes were $65 per set, jobber price @ NAPA. Complete new brakes with mounting plate, just bolt them on and hook em up, were $50 each wheel at Haulmark.

Jim

 

[Egon]

Does your controller allow you to adjust the amount the rear brakes will grab?

 

[Diamondpilot]

As others have said I think you just need to adjust your brake shoes or even replace. I adjust mine on all my trailers every 3,000 miles or so.

As for testing the controller I would check the voltage at the brake themselves. You should see a increase as the gain is turned up on the controller. This must be done with the trailer hooked up and a helper in the tow vehicle to press the brake pedal.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

jack up the trailer, spin the wheels forward real fast by hand and have someone hit the controller. should lock em.

soundguy

 

[kennyd]

I bet the leveling adjustment got moved, and that's what's causing it not to send enough power to the brakes. See this video starting at 2:20: demo-tekonsha-primus-brake-controller-20188.mp4

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I bet the leveling adjustment got moved, and that's what's causing it not to send enough power to the brakes. See this video starting at 2:20: demo-tekonsha-primus-brake-controller-20188.mp4

Kenny, mine must be a newer model. It is self leveling.After watching the video I had to go out and double check. I hooked the trailer up to the dually and the brakes worked perfectly, so it has to be something in the wiring of the motor home or the controller.
Bill

 

[Soundguy]

check the actual brake power line.

My dodge 1500 did something similar and i found a crimp connector under the dash from the controller to dash harness plug in and the crimp was not crimped.. was loose.. caused intermittant braking,,

soundguy

 

[kennyd]

Kenny, mine must be a newer model. It is self leveling.After watching the video I had to go out and double check. I hooked the trailer up to the dually and the brakes worked perfectly, so it has to be something in the wiring of the motor home or the controller.
Bill

OK, good then. I just remember I had a old one in my truck that stopped working...till I found it was out of level. I was hoping it was that simple for your to!

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Today I adjusted the brakes and it seemed to help when the brakes were first applied then fade. Time for new shoes. I took the left side apart and they were wore down about 75%.I replace the shoes on the left side and went to replace the shoes on the right side when I noticed a difference in how the shoes were installed. Both shoes are the same with the exception of the lining. One she has about 2" less lining than the other. On the left side the shoe with less lining was facing the front. On the right side the shoe with less lining was facing the rear. Which way is correct?
Bill

 

[Willl]

"NOTE: In many cases the primary shoe material is longer than the secondary shoe material. The longer shoe always goes towards the rear of the car and the short shoe towards the front."

WikiAnswers - Where does the short brake shoe go in rear brake drum on a Ford F150 1977 rear brake assembly

I've got to look it up every time myself. :confused2:

 

[Jim Thompson]

Yep, the back shoe does most of the work. :thumbsup:

Jim

 

[Diamondpilot]

Just a side note. Most trailer brake stuff is Ford. I think I tell them at the parts store I have a 68 Falcon but could be confused. I have it written down at my office. You can get shoes for $16 versus $50 at the trailer dealer.

Chris

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

It has Dexter 5K axles and the brakes are 12" x2". I have never seen car brakes with the same design shoe.
Bill

 

[Diamondpilot]

I had a shoe lock up in Tennessee one time after overheating the brakes going down a 30% grade. Anyway I was in a small town with nothing but a Napa. I walked in and said I was in a pickle. He took a look and went back and got a box of shoes. Told me they were Old Ford shoes. Anyway they were a perfect match. I have done the same a number of times now going to Auto Zone or where ever. Just replaced a set of 3.5K brakes this spring with a set. They are 10x2.

Chris

 

[Jim Thompson]

I had a shoe lock up in Tennessee one time after overheating the brakes going down a 30% grade. Anyway I was in a small town with nothing but a Napa. I walked in and said I was in a pickle. He took a look and went back and got a box of shoes. Told me they were Old Ford shoes. Anyway they were a perfect match. I have done the same a number of times now going to Auto Zone or where ever. Just replaced a set of 3.5K brakes this spring with a set. They are 10x2.

Chris

Cris, what was the number on those 10x2 ford brakes? I just paid NAPA $65 per set for some 10 x 2 shoes for my Haulmark w/2 x 3500 lb axles. Was supposed be jobber price, list was $125 per.

Jim

 

[LaVoie Equipment]

Hooked:

Fade is NOT only a shoe problem. It typically is your magnets. Worn brake shoes don't help.

When you tear those wheels/hubs/brakes down, take a good look at the drum where the magnet rides and drags. The last trailer we serviced had a fade problem; shoes were worn but more importantly the drum was grooved where the magnets ride. We chucked the drums in the lathe, faced - wher magnet rides/trued the inside of the drum (use a boring bar) and installed new magnets.

Electric Brake lesson: Magnets do not do well with heat. I recommend to all my customers to go ahead and replace the complete backing plate assembly - cheaper and less time consuming. Sometimes also required is to replace the drums depending on how many sets of brakes the drums have used.

Now, do you want to extend your life for your shoes and magnets and stop better? Jump from the 23-106 and 23-107, 12X2 (white wire magnets - 5.2K & 6K) from Dexter and go to the 23-181 and 23-180 12X2 (black wire magnets - 7K):thumbsup:. I have instock if you want them complete at a great deal. We are a Dexter dealer.

Tony

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

My locale Federated auto parts store had the shoes. I have to use the trailer tomorrow so I paid the $40 per wheel. I know I could have ordered complete assemblies for what I paid for the shoes today. I was going to wait but decided not to take a chance. The money spent on shoes is a lot cheaper than an accident. Now it is done and I don't have to worry.
Bill

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Hooked:


Now, do you want to extend your life for your shoes and magnets and stop better? Jump from the 23-106 and 23-107, 12X2 (white wire magnets - 5.2K & 6K) from Dexter and go to the 23-181 and 23-180 12X2 (black wire magnets - 7K):thumbsup:. I have instock if you want them complete at a great deal. We are a Dexter dealer.

Tony

Are the magnets the only difference from 5K to 7K. It might be worth it to upgrade.
Bill

 

[Diamondpilot]

Cris, what was the number on those 10x2 ford brakes? I just paid NAPA $65 per set for some 10 x 2 shoes for my Haulmark w/2 x 3500 lb axles. Was supposed be jobber price, list was $125 per.

Jim

I will have to look them up. I know it was less than $50 to have both drums turned, new shoes, a tube of grease, new seals, and a can of brake clean.

Chris