farm pro 2425 not charging

[robert421960]

i kinda know you all have said numerous times on here that the altenatoes are cheap and go out quick i think mine must be bad but tell me this
is there an easy way to check it?
why is there no big wire from the alt to battery?
what alt would i need to get to replace mine?
thanks in advance for your answers
Robert

 

[Affordable]

There is a big wire but it does not go back to the battery,you are thinking the GM- 1 wire alternators.You can take yours off and send to alt/starter shop to check ,unless you have a multimeter you can check yourself ?

We have the factory replacements

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
" Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[Rich Waugh]

3 out of 4 times the problem isn't with the alternator but rather with the wiring - bad ground at the battery/frame itself, alternator not grounded, exciter wire broken right at the alternator terminal, etc. A simple $5 multimeter will tell you whether or not the wiring is good and whether or not the alternator is putting out current. Even a test light will tell you most of what you need to know before you take the alternator to the shop for testing.

On my Chinese alternator there are four terminals. One is labeled "+" and is the 12 volts output, one is labeled "-" and is the ground, one is labeled "N" (neutral?), and the one labeled "F" (field?) is the exciter current. If there is 12 volts coming from the battery (by way of the ignition switch and voltage regulator, generally) to the exciter winding and the alternator is turning, then you should read voltage between the ground and positive terminals. At very low rpm it may not read full voltage, but above ~1200 rpm it should read ~14 volts.

On my tractor I've had issues with the voltage regulator not properly making contact in its socket, resulting in blown fuses and no alternator output. Something to check. The voltage out from the alternator does not go directly to the battery, it goes through the ammeter first I believe.

Hope this helps.

Rich

 

[greg_g]

why is there no big wire from the alt to battery?

Good question. Given the well documented problems with the 200 series electrical systems, you'd think Jinma would have done something about it. But the 2007 EPA rules stopped that engine from coming into the country. So Jinma probably figured it wasn't worth it to retrofit the pre-EPA engines.

But you can do it yourself - dead simple, and pretty cheap. Just get ~2' of 10 gauge insulated primary wire from your local auto parts store. Put a 1/4" ring terminal on one end and a 5/16" ring terminal on the other end. Attach the 5/16" end to the battery terminal of the starter. Attach the other end to the output terminal (B+) of the alternator. Assuming the alternator is otherwise healthy, full charging voltage should be delivered directly to the battery.

Now - having said all that, you didn't specify the model year of your FarmPro. If it's post-EPA, then there's a chance the alternator actually has gone bad on ya.

//greg//

 

[robert421960]

it is a 2006 i believe greg
you would just think that a larger driving tractors all my lifewire would be required to charge the battery
i have some kind of short under my dash(i have to bang on the dash to make it crank)
it has been frustrating since i have owened this tractor with alot of the little problems i have had
and just to say also i have been driving tractors all my life

 

[greg_g]

i have to bang on the dash to make it crank

That would be the keyswitch. Like I said, the pre-EPA 200 series had a crap electrical system. That includes the keyswitch. The wafers crumble internally. The solution (to the pounding on the dash problem) is a $15 Ford cold-start switch, found at most farm stores nationwide.

//greg//

 

[robert421960]

thanks for the info greg
ill try to find one of those and report backif battery is totally dead does the tractor
also i had left my key on a couple weeks agoand ran the battery down
(hence this post) i kept trying to let the tractor charge it and no luck
but today i charged it with battery charger and now it shows a charge while running
if the battery is tottaly dead
does the tractor not charge?

 

[Rich Waugh]

As I noted previously, if there is no excitation current from the battery to the alternator, it will not produce electricity. A totally dead battery cannot supply the 12volts necessary to energize the filed coils of the alternator.

If your ammeter is showing a charge when the engine is running, then the alternator is producing current. If it were not, the ammeter would show a discharge condition due to the drain of things like the lights, brake lights, gauges, etc.

Rich

 

[robert421960]

As I noted previously, if there is no excitation current from the battery to the alternator, it will not produce electricity. A totally dead battery cannot supply the 12volts necessary to energize the filed coils of the alternator.

If your ammeter is showing a charge when the engine is running, then the alternator is producing current. If it were not, the ammeter would show a discharge condition due to the drain of things like the lights, brake lights, gauges, etc.

Rich

when the battery was dead the ampmeter stayed neutral but now that it is charged when i start it it showes charge
thanks for the info guys
this ford cold start key switch inerchanges with everything on my switch?

 

[greg_g]

this ford cold start key switch inerchanges with everything on my switch?

Correct. There are five switch positions, and posts for each on the back. The attached document is typical for pre-EPA Jinma 200 series:

Not all switches will be wired identical to the one in that document, and not all Jinma wires may be labeled the same. But this should give you the general idea. And that URL isn't any good any more, but the switch has been sold under various part numbers over the years: C5NN11N572A, D5NN11N572A, D3NN11N501A, E8NN11N501AA, D5NN11N501A, 81871583, 83902803, et cetera. Start here: A-E7NN11N501AB

//greg//

​

 

[bjr]

There's newer model Delco alternators out there, But, I just put on a wrecking yard $25, Delco 10si on my JM354. I did have pulley issues. The wider pulley for the 5/8" belt takes a long neck nut for the Delco alternator. I did run a 10 gauge wire from alternator output back to the starter post and also used somekind of Diode wire adapter $5, recommended by the local alternator/starter repair shop. I think I'm using the three wire system. Yeah, my China alternator took a dump after 5 yrs. I'm still on my original China batteries, though. bjr

 

[Bob Rooks]

i kinda know you all have said numerous times on here that the altenatoes are cheap and go out quick i think mine must be bad but tell me this
is there an easy way to check it?
why is there no big wire from the alt to battery?
what alt would i need to get to replace mine?
thanks in advance for your answers
Robert

The OEM alternators are only 14 amps max rated output. Don't expect miracles from them, especially if you are using your lights and/or any other electrical equipment. They don't need a "big" wire to run only 14 amps. The Delco 10 & 12 system integral (Si) alternators have the same footprint and require no mounting modifications. They even use the OEM pulley but you must install the lockwasher between the pulley and fan. I installed a 12 Si on my dozer and it works great.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I did run a 10 gauge wire from alternator output back to the starter post...

To clarify that statement, you mean you ran a 10 ga wire to the battery lug on the starter solenoid.

 

[Jinma284]

Since the OEM alternator is a sealed unit, and the Delco is not, I would expect to get more dust and dirt in the Delco on a tractor and then have more problems more often than with the OEM. Just a thought. Could you just install an adjustable regulator on the OEM and then turn it up when you are running your lights or otherwise need more volts. Most of the time it would be turned down and not creat as much heat on the inside of the alternator.

Pat

 

[Bob Rooks]

Since the OEM alternator is a sealed unit, and the Delco is not, I would expect to get more dust and dirt in the Delco on a tractor and then have more problems more often than with the OEM. Just a thought. Could you just install an adjustable regulator on the OEM and then turn it up when you are running your lights or otherwise need more volts. Most of the time it would be turned down and not creat as much heat on the inside of the alternator.
Pat

You don't want to go there with these alternators, the meager windings couldn't handle the load.

Prestolite also manufactures TEFC alternators for OEM and aftermarket applications, but at $360.00 for a 65 amp model I thought I would explore other options. I selected the 72 amp Delco 12Si with the closed face fan that draws cooling air through the rear of the alternator thus minimizing dust and water contamination, and eliminating the chance of rocks getting into the front.

Note: The OEM alternators are not sealed units, they are
Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled - TEFC. Sealed units are for use in hazardous/explosive environments, and they are VERY expensive.

 

[robert421960]

ok greg i finally got my cold start ford switch you suggested
the last part # in your post is what i used
well it is different than the chinese one and i tried matching # 1-4 and it didnt work
i looked at the pic diagram you sent and a little confused with it
my new switch is numbered 1-5 with no instructions

 

[greg_g]

As I stated before, there have been reported slight variations between/among some of the Ford cold start switches. Contact me via site private message. If you can get your hands on a multimeter, I can help you through figuring out which rear connections associate with which key positions

//greg//

 

[robert421960]

well thanks to greg and a multimeter i have gotten my new switch going
thanks Greg for all your great help