Pole Barn questions 30' clear span

[rcrcomputing]

I need an implement shed. Never to have concrete, never to have insulation.
I'd like to go 30x30 or so..

I'll have about an 18' or so opening on the gable end. And a snow load of 10.

I don't want to use truss's because I don't want to give up the head room.
26g tin (r-panel)
8 or 10' outside walls.

My thinking is:
5x5 posts 10' oc
A beam every 10' with 2x6 on top for purlins.
The beam goes to a ridge board.

Does this look good to you guys? What size beam?
Or do you have a better idea?

 

[jdmar]

Without pictures I am not sure....but.
It sounds like you are designing a structure that will put an outwardly directed lateral load at the top of a 5x5 post. Even if the post could handle it (it can't, especially placed 10 feet apart) I would seriously doubt that the ground/hole could handle the load. So now for some options:
1) Steel building designed for clear span and full height under the ridge.
2) Same pole set up (or maybe 8 feet apart-not a big difference) but use scissor trusses that still give a lot of center height.

3) do you need full height if you are putting in and end door? i.e. do you need the interior a lot higher than the tallest item that you can roll through the door? There are plenty of truss designs to allow more center height--such as a scissors/variant.

4) Most truss manufacturers can answer/help a lot. I have used Stark Truss in my area and they have been awesome. They solve your problems and design a truss for YOU! Usually a slightly special truss is only a very few dollars more than standard. The wood is not much more and the guys still have to cut and press it either way. they really do not usually gouge you on the cost like you might think.
Hope this helps
Peter

 

[rcrcomputing]

No, I do not need the full height to the peak. But in that 18' opening, I'm looking for maybe a 12' height.

I think you are seeing my delima. I'm concerned with lateral thrust on the poles. Though a collar tie may help.

I'll call on the truss mfg and see what they say, though when I called on 30' regular truss's 4' oc, they were about 100.00 each. I can buy a few 2x12's for that price.

 

[Duffster]

No, I do not need the full height to the peak. But in that 18' opening, I'm looking for maybe a 12' height.

I think you are seeing my delima. I'm concerned with lateral thrust on the poles. Though a collar tie may help.

I'll call on the truss mfg and see what they say, though when I called on 30' regular truss's 4' oc, they were about 100.00 each. I can buy a few 2x12's for that price.

Why not just make the building the height you need it?

You will have a tough time building it cheaper than trusses with posts and 2x12's.

 

[wedge40]

I'll call on the truss mfg and see what they say, though when I called on 30' regular truss's 4' oc, they were about 100.00 each. I can buy a few 2x12's for that price.

I few months ago I got a quote for 32' clear span trusses 4' oc and they were under $80/per.
If you need the height inside just make the building taller.

Wedge

 

[JCB]

You will have a tough time building it cheaper than trusses with posts and 2x12's.

rcr,

I think Duff is right. Unless you already have the material, it's gonna be pretty hard to come up with a cheaper solution (that works) than trusses.

Get a quote, you might be surprised.

Joe

 

[mikefromnh]

Without collar ties a 30' wide roof will collapse eventually. Trusses are a better choice, consider vaulted parallel chord trusses if you need the height.

http://rafter.verticalwerks.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/roof-truss-types.gif

It is cheaper to do it right the first time

 

[Duffster]

These are nice but they don't go cheap.

Quality Laminated Trusses and Rafters

 

[jdmar]

Keep an eye on Craigslist. I have seen a lot of 24' trusses and several 32' in the past year locally. You might get all you need or halfway there real cheap.
Peter

 

[Ford850]

Mine is 30' wide with 12' walls, and posts every 8'. 4/12 with a 30lb load. Trusses spaced every 8' (one per post) with 2x4's on edge for purlins. Since the 2x10 chords are spaced 8' I still have plenty of extra height between them for special projects.

 

[tommu56]

look at scissor trusses the center will be higher still a free span

talk to a truss mfg and tell them what you want and most likely they can build it.

plans

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a:en-US:official&channel=s&ndsp=18&tbs=isch:1http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a:en-US:official&channel=s&ndsp=18&tbs=isch:1


tom

 

[crazyal]

I've just started digging the base for my garage. It's going to be a Gmabriel design, 28 x 32, with trusses. Mine is going to be two floors with no center posts. With this kind of design you would easily be able to have 8' walls and still be able to have the opening you are looking for. The nice thing about trusses is that an engineer designs them to handle the loads it will see.

 

[rcrcomputing]

I've just started digging the base for my garage. It's going to be a Gmabriel design, 28 x 32, with trusses. Mine is going to be two floors with no center posts. With this kind of design you would easily be able to have 8' walls and still be able to have the opening you are looking for. The nice thing about trusses is that an engineer designs them to handle the loads it will see.

I'm looking into every suggestion. It's funny, I built this house almost 20 years ago with a gambrel roof. I built the small shed with a gambrel roof. Both were either for an upstairs or storage. Since this is neither, I did not consider the idea.. Of course, I built both of those by stick though...

I did call the truss guys today, and a sissor only gets a 2/12 pitch inside, which did not get me high enough. I will call again tomarrow and ask about a gambrel. Hopefully the cost won't be prohibitive. Otherwise, I'm going 10' walls with standard truss's.

 

[rcrcomputing]

I may as well stay in the same thread for a couple of more questions.
I've never built a pole barn.

Most nail nails I've seen for my gun are what looks like electro-plated. Do they make hot dipped for the nail gun? I believe that's what is needed for treated posts.
And will regular galv 16's be good for the purlins?

I also plan to notch the 5x5 for 1 2x8 header and let the other also serve as the top girt. Will this work?


I've a 9" auger which seems to actually measure about 10". It works for 6" corner posts, but they have to be fairly straight holes. If I'm careful, can I forgo buying a 12" auger for 5x5 square posts?

For concrete "cookies" under the posts. Just pour in about 5" deep concrete and make it pretty flat on top?

Those are about the only questions I have left.. It's about time to order some material..

Thanks!

 

[Ken45101]

Around here, pole barn suppliers (and even some lumber yards) will do a complete design for you. I would feel safer with that than with my own guestimates.

I agree with everyone who says "just build it higher".

Trusses are a lot easier to build than a stick frame roof.

There are nail gun nails rated for pressure treated lumber. I know Lowes carries them. However, they are a lot smaller than true "pole barn nails". Pole barn nails mostly won't come out. I've used them on horse stalls and 90% of the time they will pull through the board (even 2" oak) rather than pull out! If I were building a barn myself, I'd use a nailer to initially hold a board and then use pole barn nails to really secure it.

Ken

 

[Wood_Butcher_Dav]

I would check again with Truss Mfg. I got 28' sissor with 5/12 outside and 3/12 inside.

Dave

 

[rcrcomputing]

Around here, pole barn suppliers (and even some lumber yards) will do a complete design for you. I would feel safer with that than with my own guestimates.

I agree with everyone who says "just build it higher".

Trusses are a lot easier to build than a stick frame roof.

There are nail gun nails rated for pressure treated lumber. I know Lowes carries them. However, they are a lot smaller than true "pole barn nails". Pole barn nails mostly won't come out. I've used them on horse stalls and 90% of the time they will pull through the board (even 2" oak) rather than pull out! If I were building a barn myself, I'd use a nailer to initially hold a board and then use pole barn nails to really secure it.

Ken

I don't recall seeing pole barn nails in galvanized.. And am told the nails must be hot-dipped galvanized.. ??
It's been a long time since I've been in the construction business. And while I've built quite a bit, I've never done a pole barn. Which is a whole different theory..

I forgot to also ask, Since you do not want treated touching metel, what do you do on a bottom girt?

 

[rcrcomputing]

I would check again with Truss Mfg. I got 28' sissor with 5/12 outside and 3/12 inside.

Dave

I was worried, if I go above a 4/12, I'd fall off it.

 

[Ken45101]

I don't recall seeing pole barn nails in galvanized.. And am told the nails must be hot-dipped galvanized.. ??

That's a good question and I don't have an answer. Sorry.

I forgot to also ask, Since you do not want treated touching metel, what do you do on a bottom girt?

It's not bare metal, so I would guess (repeat, guess), it's not a problem. You might check with one of the metal manufacturers or a high quality distributor.

 

[Duffster]

And am told the nails must be hot-dipped galvanized.. ??

Or stainless....

I forgot to also ask, Since you do not want treated touching metel, what do you do on a bottom girt?

Non issue since the steel is galvanized and painted.