Need to slow down rear remotes.

[DCJL]

I have 2 sets of rear remotes that at times move the implement too fast. I'm guessing I can put some kind of restrictor valve inline to slow the hydraulic fluid. I would put a male QC at one end and a female at the other so I could remove the short piece of hose so I could have full pressure for my backhoe when it gets hooked up. Anyone know which particular valve I need and do I need one on both (actually 4 lines as I have 2 sets of remotes) lines?

This is for a New Holland TC34DA tractor with 35hp.

 

[J_J]

Some people on here want everybody to use 1/4 hose to slow down flow, but I say use one of these to regulate the GPM you want. You can put it in-line, or connect it with QC. Adjustment is from 0 - 8 GPMs. You only need one valve for each attachment you use. You could use the little washer thingy with small orifice, but you would have to experiment to find the right one.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009102311221434&item=9-5302-38&catname=hydraulic

 

[DCJL]

That is Perfect.
Boy, that was way too easy.
Thanks!

 

[Wayne County Hose]

Go back to your New Holland dealer. They probably have the .030" orifice fitting you need in stock. Probably less than 5 bucks too. The experimenting has already been done. Nobody runs valves to slow these things down, unless you want to throw dollars at a nickel problem.

 

[J_J]

I do believe I already said that. Maybe he wants variable control. Maybe you should just keep your nickel in your pocket. It's not worth much.

 

[BlacknTan]

I've always gotten valuable information from Wayne County Hose..

Worth much more than a nickle.. I thought this forum was for open discussion??

The OP might be wise to listen to the Pros on hydraulic questions... Sometimes I wish I had when I was feeling my way along!

 

[Kubota-guy1911]

I agree with JJ on this. You never know when you will need or want to change the flow rate in the future.

kj

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I agree with JJ on this. You never know when you will need or want to change the flow rate in the future.

kj

I agree with you two. Instead of getting the .030 reducer fitting and the QDs to easily install and remove it as needed, get a needle valve and just leave it in. I would not get the 3/8" valve though, due to having the back hoe I would get a 1/2" needle valve that flows 0-15 GPM. But if $$ is tight and inconvenience is not that big of a deal, then go with the reducer fitting.

Just my opinion

 

[jinman]

Put one of these inline with one quick connect of any cylinder you need to control and you'll be in business. Restrictor orifices give me nice control of my hydraulic toplink, sidelink, and grapple cylinders. In the area of the 3PH that's always cramped, this is the easiest solution in my opinion. These orifices sell for $4.95 at my New Holland dealer. He keeps them on the shelf near where he sells fittings and quick connects.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

You guys say that it is only 5-6 dollars for a restrictor, but that would not be his sole cost. After he bought nipples for a buck each and a set of QD's for $20, now he is into it for $27 plus shipping. That is fine and dandy, but he could have the needle valve for $40 + $2 for some nipples and now he has full control of his hydraulic flow without having to remove a restrictor for the use of his back hoe. Size wise he would be about the same with the needle valve being about the same length as the additional QD.

So for $27 + shipping he can have a removable part vs a fixed permanent adjustable part for $42 + shipping. For me, it would be worth the $15 to have a setup that would be permanent so that I would not have to worry about another piece of the puzzle when putting the hoe on and off.

Just my opinion and what I would do in those circumstances.

One last thing, can someone show me where a restrictor fitting may be purchased online, I could not find one, maybe post it here and on Jinmans' post about the restrictors.

 

[DCJL]

Hey guys, thanks for all the help and ideas, any one of which would work. I went with the Parker Needle Valve and will hook it up to a pair of QCs so in the winter I can move it to my snowplow that is on my FEL arms as the current set up does move a bit faster than what I'd prefer. I like having the ability to change the settings depending upon what is on so I went with variable instead of set. Compared to the cost of the tractor etc. a few more dollars makes no difference to me when it gives me the advantage of a variable flow rate.

 

[J_J]

I thought I would post this data about hydraulic restrictors for anyone interested. Your basic restrictor is essentially a fitting bored to allow a certain amount of fluid to flow and limit the speed of hydraulic cylinders in both directions. Then there are the more elaborate restrictor assembly's which allow one way travel, and two way travel. These also have filters in them to keep the unit working as advertised.

The one way restrictor is used to slow, say the grapple in the closing mode, and have full speed in the return stroke. You would normally want it to open fast. The two way lets the orifice work in both directions. There are formulas to compute the flow through an orifice, but some people just guess at what they need. These will cost a little more than the $5 orifice.

Restrictors

 

[jinman]

You guys say that it is only 5-6 dollars for a restrictor, but that would not be his sole cost. After he bought nipples for a buck each and a set of QD's for $20, now he is into it for $27 plus shipping. That is fine and dandy, but he could have the needle valve for $40 + $2 for some nipples and now he has full control of his hydraulic flow without having to remove a restrictor for the use of his back hoe. Size wise he would be about the same with the needle valve being about the same length as the additional QD.

So for $27 + shipping he can have a removable part vs a fixed permanent adjustable part for $42 + shipping. For me, it would be worth the $15 to have a setup that would be permanent so that I would not have to worry about another piece of the puzzle when putting the hoe on and off.

Just my opinion and what I would do in those circumstances.

One last thing, can someone show me where a restrictor fitting may be purchased online, I could not find one, maybe post it here and on Jinmans' post about the restrictors.

Brian, I've never found restrictor fittings online except that I've found them in Parker's catalog. I get mine at my NH dealer and I think someone else said they found one at Tractor Supply, but I've never seen them there.

About the OP... I got the impression that he was talking about a BH that attached to his tractor's remotes. He was using those remotes for other attachments and wanted to slow them when they are attached. Having other attachments means he will have to buy male QCs no matter what his setup, even if the other attachment has its own hoses. An orifice and at most a single 1/2 to 3/8 adapter is all I've ever had to add to any circuit. Since the restrictor has a female fitting on one end and a male on the other, it goes right inline with 3/8" hose, no other fitting required. I'm including a picture of the restrictor orifice attached inline on my toplink. You can only tell it's there because the lower fitting is longer than the top. That's about as simple as it gets. If I disconnected this and attached a backhoe, then the restrictor would be gone. I'm just having a hard time seeing all the extras you mentioned.

BTW: The OP has already opted for a solution, so this is all just sidebar discussion anyhow. It is interesting though.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I have 2 sets of rear remotes that at times move the implement too fast. I'm guessing I can put some kind of restrictor valve inline to slow the hydraulic fluid. I would put a male QC at one end and a female at the other so I could remove the short piece of hose so I could have full pressure for my backhoe when it gets hooked up. Anyone know which particular valve I need and do I need one on both (actually 4 lines as I have 2 sets of remotes) lines?

This is for a New Holland TC34DA tractor with 35hp.

Jim, I am now thinking that maybe the BEST way to address these sort of flow control problems would be to have the restrictor ON each hydraulic as you have on your top link. But what a pain to determine what size orifice you need. You have a .030 on your 2" top link. What size do I need for (example) my 3" top link? It surely is not the same size that yours is, if I were to use a .030 restrictor, I could go and have lunch before the ram ever got extended.

My take on what the OP was saying was that he had multiple implements that moved to fast and wanted to be able to slow ALL of them down, thus needing the additional adapter hose requiring the extra parts that I listed. I may have listed 1 to many nipples? I am guessing that he is dealing with 1/2" QD's. That is what most of our tractors have isn't it?

So for compactness, the ristrictor is the way to go. How to determine the orifice size can be a separate problem in itself. Sizes of hydraulic cylinders, GPM, pressure, at what speed do you want the ram to extend. All of these things can vary for each person. A very experienced operater most likely would not want the same restriction on a piece of equipment that a newbie would be happy with. All of this stuff is why I would normally go with a needle valve. It can be set to accommodate ALL of these variables.

 

[DCJL]

I have rear remotes for the BH. When the BH is off I have a TnT to control a rear blade and a grader blade. Using the TnT moves way too fast to easily set the blades so I need to slow them down. I also have a front hydraulics with an electric diverter valve for angling my front plow for snow removal. I figure I can use the needle valve along with QR valves to slow the front plow a little and when it is hooked on the back to slow the rear a lot. This way I get multiple solutions with 1 piece of equipment. I really like the idea of having a variable solution rather than a set solution.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

DCJL, thanks for clearing up how and what you are using the hydraulics for.

 

[J_J]

I have rear remotes for the BH. When the BH is off I have a TnT to control a rear blade and a grader blade. Using the TnT moves way too fast to easily set the blades so I need to slow them down. I also have a front hydraulics with an electric diverter valve for angling my front plow for snow removal. I figure I can use the needle valve along with QR valves to slow the front plow a little and when it is hooked on the back to slow the rear a lot. This way I get multiple solutions with 1 piece of equipment. I really like the idea of having a variable solution rather than a set solution.

That is the only logical way, as the single orifice will not work for all implements, unless you install an orifice on each implement it self, and then you have to play around with different orifices to get the one you need. A needle valve for each work station.

A needle valve will restrict fluid both ways, when sometimes you want to raise faster than you lower. Thats where the one way restrictor comes in. Restricts on the close and full flow on the open. There are trade off,s

 

[PILOON]

Shucks, why not simply remouve the inlet fitting from the cylinder and braze it closed followed by drilling out , say .030 'oriface' (or smaller) to slow down the action.
You can always rebore larger if the first attempt is too slow.
If you want to slow down both of the cylinder actions you'd simply treat both end fittings the same way.

I could see where on a bucket clamp you might only wish to slow down the closing action so you'd treat only that one stroke and leave the other origional.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

www.tompkinsind.com. Just about any restrictor fitting you need. They go inline, no adaptors needed. You guys are not getting the theory behind having an .030" restrictor. It reduces the flow just about right no matter the cylinder size, except if you get into real big stuff.

You have a .030 on your 2" top link. What size do I need for (example) my 3" top link? It surely is not the same size that yours is, if I were to use a .030 restrictor, I could go and have lunch before the ram ever got extended.

This is just not true. You would notice almost no difference in speed by changing your cylinder size, within reason of course. The more fluid flow of the 3" cylinder would push the fluid through the restrictor faster. I have seen this personally. The main difference would be the extra pressure in the 3" cylinder to push the fluid out at roughly the same speed. This is why the .030 " restrictor is such a common size. The .030" restrictor works for almost every implement requiring slower speeds.

Personally, I would have stuck a $5 restrictor fitting directly on the implement that needs to be slowed. No adjustments, no valves to freeze up or leak, like they always do in time.

 

[J_J]

Wayne County Hose


Your logic is flawed if you think different size cylinders will fill up and extend at the same rate using a set orifice. Just how do you think the flow control valve work. It is a variable orifice allowing a certain amount of fluid to flow. That is how you get speed control on a hyd motor, or the rate of cylinder extension. The FEL valve itself is a variable orifice.

A set orifice with a set pressure will let so much fluid flow, which will equate into GPM's, and further equate into time for extension. The cylinder extension times is based on the volume of fluid entering the base of the cyl.

CYLINDER SPEED IS BASED ON IT'S INSIDE DIAMETER, AND GPM.