How heavy is your ballast box?

[rhamer]

I'm getting close to the end of my FEL build, and I will need to build a balast box for the rear.

The question is how heavy does it need to be?

The tractor is a Kubota L1802DT which is about 20HP 4WD to give you some idea.

Also do you guys just hang them from the 3PT arms or do you lower it onto something solid, I'm just not sure about the 3PT holding up that much weight continiously?

Cheers

Rohan

 

[mjncad]

My 26HP JD 4200's ballast box comes in around 500 - 600 pounds (227kg - 273kg) filled with sand as I recall. I would think that would be adequate for your needs. What does your manual recommend?

When not in use, I keep it detached from the tractor on a furniture dolly in the garage.

 

[Gizmo2]

My ballast box is about 600lbs (I think) and is filled with 3/4 inch stone. This is too heavy for snow plowing so I take some stone out for the winter and put in back in late spring when the ground hardens up.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

my ballast box is my box blade (400 pounds?) with 6 buckets filled with concrete so I can add or remove as needed. (35 hp machine)

 

[easygo]

I have a 21hp Kubota and I was happy with about 500lbs of ballast. My loader can lift about 660lbs. I actually add weight as needed. If I'm only turning compost 400lbs is enough. For heavy stuff like rocks and gravel I put 550-600 on the 3ph. If I put the tractor away with the ballast on the back I always lower it on a few pieces of wood. I don't know if that is important, but it makes me feel better.

If your rear tires are loaded you could use a little less ballast but I would still use it.

 

[duckhunt]

I just use my bush hog (600lbs) or my grader blade (400lbs) as ballast. I've never had any trouble as long as one or the other was attached. Without them it will get a bit light with a full bucket. A box blade will work good as well. Plus you can still work with the 3pt, leveling, etc.

 

[LBrown59]

I'm getting close to the end of my FEL build, and I will need to build a balast box for the rear.

The question is how heavy does it need to be?

The tractor is a Kubota L1802DT which is about 20HP 4WD to give you some idea.

Also do you guys just hang them from the 3PT arms or do you lower it onto something solid, I'm just not sure about the 3PT holding up that much weight continiously?

Cheers

Rohan

Use sand or gravel and you can vary the weight of it.

 

[Ductape]

I filled mine with portland cement and rocks............... but i've never weighed it. I sure as heck wouldn't want it falling on my foot though !

 

[carpenter383]

Without knowing the details on your FEL lift capacity it would be hard to give an accurate recomendation. But my DK40 does fine with fluid filled tires and a heavy box blade on back.

 

[texasjohn]

Weight you need depends on what you are doing..which changes all the time for me. You need sufficient rear weight to prevent being light in the fanny.

For me, this means adjustable weights. I can vary these weights (chunks of metal at about 80lbs each to or from various rear platforms. Things have to match up... to get a complete job done... examples:

front hay spike matched with rear hay fork (180lbs+ 200lbs weight preventing tip when 1500lb hay bale only on front spike).

heavy duty bucket + 130 lb tooth bar matched with rear box blade (500lbs + 700 lbs weights ) when moving dirt/rock

NO bucket, chains on quick attach to pick up 2800lb concrete culvert with FEL matched with rear box blade (500lbs + 900 lbs weights )

FEL forks matched with rear hay fork (180lbs) + 200lbs weight + carryall (200 lbs) + extra 250 lbs weight when picking up pallets of rock.

My objective is to keep weight reasonably balanced on all 4 wheels under all loads.

Oh, yes, rear wheels each have 500 lbs of liquid.

What MUST be avoided is turning the FRONT axle into a fulcrum. If rear wheels get off ground, or almost so, then ENTIRE weight of FEL load + tractor + rear load is all on the FRONT (and weakest) axle and two smaller tires.

If you focus, as numerous posters have suggested) on having the ability to vary and adjust your rear ballast, you will be prepared for numerous chores. Exact rear weights depend on FEL capability of your tractor, weights in tires, etc.

 

[rhamer]

Thanks guys for all the tips.

I think a weight of around 250Kg (~550 lbs) will be ok, but having the ability to adjust it, seems to be the key.

As for the other question, do you just hang the weight from the 3PL lift arms?

Cheers

Rohan

 

[PILOON]

My MT180 (20 hp) has weighted tires and the 3pt ballast is a pig iron elevator weight that is marked 300 lbs.
The elevator weight is nice and compact which is a plus (about 5" X 8" x 40") and fits neetly within rear wheels.
This combination works fine for me and I can handle full FEL loads of crushed stone with ease.
I would believe that ballast should be equal to loader capacity.

 

[Ductape]

As for the other question, do you just hang the weight from the 3PL lift arms?

Mine just goes on the 3 pt, like any other implement. When I park, I set it on the ground. I'm waiting for the day it falls the through the wooden floor in my barn.

 

[Runner]

Mine is 809 lbs, of which 336 lbs is (8) removable cast iron weights (I added one since the picture was taken). The non-removable part is a combination of portland cement and old quick-crete that I had sitting around the shop.

This is for a JD 2520 with max lift capacity of around 1,000 lbs (including the bucket or forks). It sits on a wood furniture dolly with cast iron wheels when not on the tractor.