Zetor 5245 Hyd flush

[Kindasecluded]

Good morning everyone. I'm kinda playin mechanic for my uncle and fixing his equipment. One of his 4 tractors (5245) is going to need a hydraulic flush. Badly. I changed a couple of lines from the control valves to the loader and when I broke the lines free from the hard lines at the loader to release the pressure the fluid that came out was very milky looking. After doing 4 years of heavy equipment I know this isn't right. Now my question is.... Whats the best way to flush the hard lines out??? And would anyone by chance know where the drain plug is to drop the rest of the fluid??? Since I've been working on other equipment I have yet to get any time to further look at this tractor, and I want to address this before it takes his pump out. Thats one job I deffinately don't want to have to do. Anyhow thanks folks.

 

[Zork]

Good morning, Kindasecluded. Was it milky due to water/contaminants or opaque due to aeration and being squeezed through the fitting? If it is contamination I would look for a drain somewhere close to the bottom of the trans-axle. Depending on how much that oil is contaminated you may need that same capacity of oil to flush it. However, you need to address the moisture intrusion problem first; is it just very old oil and poor maintenance, is the breather damaged or restricted?; etc. I would check for points where water can enter (filler plug?) clean the breather and other areas to make sure they cannot allow water to enter through them. Drain the oil and change/ clean the filter, fill oil to to capacity and run the machine so the oil is good and hot and then drain it again. Use clean containers because you may be able to recover this recent/ new oil once the water and debris has settled to the bottom. Replace the fluid and filter with new products and the future normal operation of the machine should evaporate any trace moisture and you can return to the normal maintenance cycle.

 

[Kindasecluded]

Ok Zork thanks for your reply. I will try to start looking in to it tomorrow. My uncle isn't to concerned about it, but I don't really want to have to do a pump (as I have the feeling its a big job) The fluid that came out appeared to have a high water concentration and I didn't see it myself but my uncle said he pulled the dipstick out and it had ice crystals stuck to it. I'll look in to it and try to see where the water is getting in. He's dropped the fluid once but only drained the trans axle. So I hope I can find out why there is so much water in the system. Now the part I'm not sure of is how to ensure I get the maximum amount of fluid out of the loader attachment. But I'll figure something out, I know it won't be a cheap fix if he has to do the pump and with four tractors plus a dozer to try to keep going I don't really wanna get in to a job that big. Thanks again for the input, hope all goes well.

 

[Redneck in training]

Zetor North America

You can get best answer here.

 

[Iron Peddler]

As I just joined a few weeks ago, I know you have already changed the fluid in your uncle's tractor, but some additional advice, if I may. If your boots on the top of the transmission are missing or bad, your water could be coming in there. Also, you need to pull out the magnetic filter under the back of the tractor, which is in the middle in the back, under the drawbar. It is about a one inch bolt and has a plate that, when unscrewed, will drop out the magnetic filter. You will loose about a cup of fluid, but you will probably find lots of junk on the filter. Flush it out with cleaner and re-install. I have seen hydraulics quit moving and it was just this filter plugged. With over 8.5 years with Zetor, this was a very common problem, but it did a good job in picking up the metal fragments and junk in the Hyd. system. Also, all the older Zetors came with 80/90 gear lube in the hyd. system. As I am from Michigan, most of my dealers changed it to universal hyd. (usually a 10w base oil), due to the cold weather. This is just for your information.

Best Regards,

Iron Peddler

 

[Renze]

just to set your mind at ease: changeing a hydraulic pump is a 20 minute job, if you have a deep enough ditch to park the front end into: Then you can do it without even draining the oil: the pump is located on the hatch under the rear axle.

 

[johnhalse]

Iron Peddler,
i just came across your post above while searching for water sources into gearbox oil. I've got a 6745 with milky looking gearbox oil and i checked the gearchange stick bellows this evening by torch light per your suggestion. The bellows appears to be intact although the rubber feels pretty hard (harder than i would have expected) and it slid up and away from the housing on top of the gear box very readily so i guess it is not doing much of a job sealing on the gear stick. Is getting this gear leaver out and getting a new bellows in a difficult job and is there anything special that i have to be careful about (and especially is it possible to drop anything inside the gearbox housing)?

Cheers
Halsey