Your towing rigs and trailers

   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,581  
I think with today’s trucks the comparison is the same. It the gross vehicle weight minus the curb weight = the payload. The payload includes all fluids and full fuel but no people. The tow rating is the same but includes a 150 pound driver. Most half tons are limited by the payload, which is the hitch weight, for towing.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,582  
At some point I'll stop by some truck scales & get an actual curb weight...
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,583  
^ this is why I like having a 9200 lb GVWR with sub 5800 lb curb weight on my 2500HD, even though its mostly overkill for my homeowner needs. Never have to think about splitting up pallets of brick, pavers, block, etc.

I don't know how you guys get by with these 1000-1500 lb payload ratings.... put your family in the cab and you're nearly tapped out. Well, actually I do know, many of you probably just regularly exceed the rating. :laughing:

Mine is 9800 with 6800 curb weight. But that’s really more of a suggestion.. IMG_7771.JPGIMG_8923.JPG
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,584  
These days the actual payload of your truck will be on the door jamb sticker, usually a yellow and white sticker. The guides are often a joke and list higher than actual numbers.

My ram has a GVWR of 19,500. It was easy to calculate payload by simply weighing my truck with its secondary body, fuel cell and typical load of tools, which was about 10,200lbs. So payload is about 9300lbs. GCWR is 43000lbs. I weighed truck (same parameters as before, but with my trailer in tow). That combined weight was 18,5000lbs. That leaves me with a truck & trailer payload of ~24500lbs.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,585  
I had the same experience with the various brochures and towing guides from the manufacturers being unreliable for cargo and tow ratings. If you're lucky they will be within 400#. The doorjamb sticker (or sometimes in the glove box) is the most accurate data and will usually be specific to the VIN or configuration and trim level.

The loaded up trucks suffer in cargo capacity, no doubt about it. You're trading off cargo capacity for options, crew cab, etc (and you carry it around all the time). And at least with GMC, going with the heavier engine options also deducts from cargo capacity. In a GMC, if you care about cargo or towing capacity, best option is a lower trim level with the smaller V8 and avoid crew cab. That can gain 200-500# in extra capacity for cargo and towing.

I hear a lot of people proclaim that the bigger engines are better for towing. Well, they might feel stronger when towing, but they also knock down the towing capacity. I think there is a couple hundred pound loss in tow rating with the larger V8 in GMC.
The 5.3 and 6.2 are the same block. There is very little weight difference. The 10 speed trans may add weight.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,586  
The 5.3 and 6.2 are the same block. There is very little weight difference. The 10 speed trans may add weight.

The specs do not specify whether it's due to the engine or something else, nor did I mean to imply that. But I have compared the door jamb stickers on mechanically equivalent trucks with the same transmission and rear end, and the 5.3L models always have higher tow and cargo ratings. If you can find apples to apples trucks, the tow/cargo ratings are highest on 5.3L, 3.0 diesel is in the middle, and 6.3L has the lowest. There is usually 200-300# spread. It is known that the diesel is limited by cooling (for emissions purposes it's designed to run hot) otherwise it would probably do better.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,587  
The specs do not specify whether it's due to the engine or something else, nor did I mean to imply that. But I have compared the door jamb stickers on mechanically equivalent trucks with the same transmission and rear end, and the 5.3L models always have higher tow and cargo ratings. If you can find apples to apples trucks, the tow/cargo ratings are highest on 5.3L, 3.0 diesel is in the middle, and 6.3L has the lowest. There is usually 200-300# spread. It is known that the diesel is limited by cooling (for emissions purposes it's designed to run hot) otherwise it would probably do better.
It's likely because the 6.2 is tuned for performance. So it may run hotter towing. The ratings are based on people too stupid to monitor things. Also the higher power may be too much for the rest of the drive train when towing. All the newer diesels are problematic due to emissions garbage. Same problem in big trucks. They keep the towing companies strong and growing.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,588  
Recently bought a used 1989 JD 770 with 475hrs on the clock. My 2013 F150 pulls it nicely with a 16ft dovetail trailer I have from Rampant Trailers in NC. Use the trailer often pulling large supplies and my Classic tagged 1984 Jeep CJ-7 I've owned since new.

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JD 770 (12).JPG
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Trailering Jeep (1).JPG
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,589  
Nice looking setup. It looks like you spent some time on the trailer getting it setup the way you want, very nice.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,590  
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,591  
Jeep looks to nice to have been used off road. How many miles on it? Jon

There's a 104,000 miles on the original odometer. Ordered and bought it in June of 1984 at the age of 24 and beat the living crap out of it 4 wheeling and hunting to the point of the body tub rusting out and I fell through the floor in 1996. I restored it myself between 2007 and 2011 and acquired a new body tub for it and only drive for leisurely sunny days and weekends now since it has no top. Its been in my family for 36 years now and will pass it on to my son when I depart this earth.

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Repli-tub # F04-003737-E 6 (18).JPG
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   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,592  
Bringing the BX home from the family farm, loaded a little rear heavy since I haven’t added D rings to the Land Pride BB1248 yet and don’t want to rub my straps. I normally use these chain / strap combos and forgot them at home.

62033985142__5D58167A-166D-4E8F-9397-F48176D1CCF6.JPGIMG_2044.JPGIMG_2045.JPG
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,594  
Nice looking set up, the trailer looks brand new.

Thanks man it pulls really nice with both her Expedition and my F250.

My wife talked me into getting the 20ft over a 16ft and I’m very glad as we will be getting a 4ft rotary cutter for the BX and likely adding an L series for putting out small round bales and mowing pastures.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,595  
I owned a BX for about 10 years and my wife laughed at me the first time I hauled it on a 18 foot trailer without the end loader and anything on the back. With the end loader and brush hog on the back they get long opinion a hurry.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,596  
I owned a BX for about 10 years and my wife laughed at me the first time I hauled it on a 18 foot trailer without the end loader and anything on the back. With the end loader and brush hog on the back they get long opinion a hurry.

They do look funny in mower only configuration! I just like the flexibility for load placement and strap / chain placement of a longer trailer.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,597  
My tilt bed is a 20 foot deck. If a full sized pickup is on it it looks full. With a tractor or one of my Corvettes it looks like it's too big. But Corvettes have the transmission in the rear. The axles Weigh the same. Since they are not front heavy they need to be way past center for safe weight balance. All the way forward is just right. The rear axle is over the rear trailer axle.It would not be safe to haul one on a 16 foot trailer. The same goes for tractors. Depending upon what is on them the center line of weight varies. I use a Weigh Safe scale hitch on every trailer except the dump trailer. I make sure my tounge weight is as close to 15% as I can get it. My dump trailer has a 2" hitch for some stupid reason. A different ball for the hitch is expensive. And a bit of a pain to change. The bed is so short it's hard to load it wrong. So I haven't gotten the smaller ball. I have a turnover ball for the same system that doesn't have a scale. But a longer trailer is always a better choice. Weight distribution is very Important.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,598  
My tilt bed is a 20 foot deck. If a full sized pickup is on it it looks full. With a tractor or one of my Corvettes it looks like it's too big. But Corvettes have the transmission in the rear. The axles Weigh the same. Since they are not front heavy they need to be way past center for safe weight balance. All the way forward is just right. The rear axle is over the rear trailer axle.It would not be safe to haul one on a 16 foot trailer. The same goes for tractors. Depending upon what is on them the center line of weight varies. I use a Weigh Safe scale hitch on every trailer except the dump trailer. I make sure my tounge weight is as close to 15% as I can get it. My dump trailer has a 2" hitch for some stupid reason. A different ball for the hitch is expensive. And a bit of a pain to change. The bed is so short it's hard to load it wrong. So I haven't gotten the smaller ball. I have a turnover ball for the same system that doesn't have a scale. But a longer trailer is always a better choice. Weight distribution is very Important.

Agreed! The minor inconvenience of maneuvering a longer trailer is always worth it unless I had a trailer built for one specific load and I knew that was the only thing it would ever be used to haul around.
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,599  
There's a 104,000 miles on the original odometer. Ordered and bought it in June of 1984 at the age of 24 and beat the living crap out of it 4 wheeling and hunting to the point of the body tub rusting out and I fell through the floor in 1996. I restored it myself between 2007 and 2011 and acquired a new body tub for it and only drive for leisurely sunny days and weekends now since it has no top. Its been in my family for 36 years now and will pass it on to my son when I depart this earth.

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Nice work... I cut my teeth on CJs in my HS days, had several CJ5s and CJ7s, and even CJ8s. Built one with a fiberglass tub, 304 v8 and 5spd, mild lift and 35s. Seems you took the time to replace the tub with metal, a more 'correct' option, well done. None of mine were new, or anywhere close, bought junkers and salvaged good parts, sold leftover parts, and after pieced together the one nice one at the end. Drove one of the CJ8s the summer I met my wife, fond memories of that one... 25+ years ago!
 
   / Your towing rigs and trailers #3,600  
My tilt bed is a 20 foot deck. If a full sized pickup is on it it looks full. With a tractor or one of my Corvettes it looks like it's too big. But Corvettes have the transmission in the rear. The axles Weigh the same. Since they are not front heavy they need to be way past center for safe weight balance. All the way forward is just right. The rear axle is over the rear trailer axle.It would not be safe to haul one on a 16 foot trailer. The same goes for tractors. Depending upon what is on them the center line of weight varies. I use a Weigh Safe scale hitch on every trailer except the dump trailer. I make sure my tounge weight is as close to 15% as I can get it. My dump trailer has a 2" hitch for some stupid reason. A different ball for the hitch is expensive. And a bit of a pain to change. The bed is so short it's hard to load it wrong. So I haven't gotten the smaller ball. I have a turnover ball for the same system that doesn't have a scale. But a longer trailer is always a better choice. Weight distribution is very Important.

Yeah, the extra balls for the Weigh Safe hitch aren't cheap. That's why I bought the version that comes with both 2" and 2 5/16" right away. I haven't really found it to be too hard to change. Way easier than needing to use a wrench!

Rob
 

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