Buying Advice YM240D. Good deal?

[rScotty]

Ah, yes.... the famous Yanmar clank and knock.... BTW, congrats on your purchase. You've just inherited a mechanical icon.

Those old two cylinder Yanmars were a sleeve-block engine with a steel cylinder shrunk into an iron block. That's a pretty good way to build a bell, and part of the reason for the nickname, "YammerHammers".
The noise doesn't seem to affect their reliability. Yanmar also made a series of single cylinder marine diesels & "long tails" that were even louder. They sounded like someone driving a fence post into the ground with a sledgehammer.

Oddly enough, they also made three cylinder & 4 cylinder engines at that time that were remarkably quiet and balanced. Especially the three, some of which featured an indirect injection head geometry which further quieted them down.

Many of the two cylinder tractors were thermosiphon cooling rather than having a water pump. Is yours? If you look at the front of the engine, what looks like a water pump is actually the generator - well, technically it's a magneto type alternator... but the point is that the cooling is dependent on physics rather than a pump. It works well enough, but is just different enough to be worth knowing about.
rScotty

 

[Jtullis13]

Yes Congrats on your new to you tractor purchase, it will serve you well. It will be easy to maintain as well. As rScotty stated "YammerHammers" they are noisy and a lot of people here will suggest that you wear hearing protection if operating for a period of time, not a bad idea honestly. There are a lot of members here with a ton of knowledge about these machines and are willing to help if you need anything. Anyways, enjoy!!

 

[careyo63]

I had a good chuckle again this morning with your Green Acres Comment!!:laughing: It's true...At least it's not a hand crank and with a Elec. Starter it's kind of Fancy.... The loud banging is normal and your get use to it. I had and rode motorcycles that the Yanmar isn't even close to the sound of hitting a lick and banging out the power. Also mentioned before was Turning radius. I can make a clean turn in 10'. 2 passes with the FM at the end of my pass with not even having to slow down. And if I'm under the 10' I use 2nd. gear PTO and my shifting is not that bad to keep from grinding gears. I been grinding them for Yrs. to be honest I just don't force it in gear. So even if you can't cut the Spray off when starting another pass that your loss and over spray will be minimal IMO..
I used a Kubota when clearing the land my house sits on. It was okay and the Back Hoe was nice with a Fel. But it just came from the dealer from Serv. and started leaking Hyd. fluid through the Steering Colum so I passed on it. I put a ghetto rig to it and kept it from squirting Hyd. fluid in your lap everytime you turn the wheel and it was told to us a Split to fix it. That was the deal beaker. It had a Ton of Hrs. on it the owner used it for installing Cable Tv. lines. It did what I wanted it to do rather easily but then after shopping and checking my choices the Yanmar I still own now was my final decision and a good one. Simple basic and well built and is in the place to be on it. Farm living not so much though...........

 

[dchad]

Afternoon rScotty,

So far so good on the tractor purchase, but I still sing the green acres song every time I start her up. Just don't want to take any unnecessary chances.

I haven't taken the time to look at the "water pump" in detail. I glanced at it after reading your post, and it looks like a typical water pump housing. Has a belt driven pulley on the front, but if and when I need to get into it, I'll need some schooling on thermosiphon cooling. I've never heard of it, but thanks again for the tip.

 

[dchad]

careyo63,

I've ridden a few motorcycles over the years too, so it's likely I'm already a bit deaf. The noise from the Yanmar doesn't bother me at all. I kind of like it.

I think I'll get the turning radius we're looking for, likely we'll skip every other row, then circle back and pick the rest up. Running a switch back to the sprayer so I can turn it off while I'm making the turns ( some might call that learning to drive). Hoping I can just put it in gear, alternate rows, and not run anything over.

It's been raining here almost every day, with more in the forecast, but I think it'll get to try it out soon.

I'm hooking it up to a tow bar because my Yanmar didn't come with a draw bar. I'd prefer a draw bar and the Hoye company on this site sells one, but they are out of the pins to hold it. Any idea what the pin is? Is it something I can fabricate, or is this another place I can look for a draw bar?

Sorry for all the questions, but did I mention it's raining here.

Thanks again for your help and comments.

 

[dchad]

One more thought,

I did mention the rain, How do I go about adding a photo of my new-to-me Yanmar in my profile? Or can you tell me where the directions are?

Thanks again,

 

[California]

YM240 has a conventional cooling system with a water pump like any automobile, not thermosyphon. And this model uses an ordinary belt-driven automotive alternator. The smaller Yanmars have a 'dynamo' (alternator) hidden inside the fan pulley.

Take a look at the YM2000 parts diagrams on Hoyetractor.com. YM240 is 99.9% identical. It has an additional overrun clutch inside its PTO, the PTO choices are 540 and 1000, and the throttle is push to go fast, to comply to US standard. I can't think of any other differences.

You're going to like it.

 

[dchad]

Good morning California,

Thanks for the tips. Your comments probably hold true anyway, but I ended up purchasing a YM1700.

BTW, did you see this comment: I'm hooking it up to a tow bar because my Yanmar didn't come with a draw bar. I'd prefer a draw bar and the Hoye company on this site sells one, but they are out of the pins to hold it. Any idea what the pin is? Is it something I can fabricate, or is there another place I can look for a draw bar?

I would like to add a draw bar if you have any suggestions.

Thanks again, and yes, it's STILL raining here.

 

[dchad]

How about my new "avitar"? My Kubota is so jealous.

 

[California]

Your comments probably hold true anyway, but I ended up purchasing a YM1700.

Oops. I haven't been checking this thread often. Just now looked at the most recent page and didn't realize the topic had changed to YM1700.

At any rate ... You'll love it. That's a near twin to the YM240 I've owned for a while. I never run at full hp output so it would be identical in my use. Resist the temptation to start modifying things immediately. Everybody wants to put on a temperature gauge as their first 'improvement'. Spend the money on cooling system maintenance instead. Yanmar got the design right. There's no need to improve anything if its up to spec.

This should be great pulling a sprayer. So long as it has automotive-size tires, it should pull easily. My watering trailer - IBC tote on a HF 40x48" trailer, 2600 lbs loaded, was hard to pull over plowed ground with the original 8" tires. After I put on 12" tires it pulls much better. I'm pulling it with a smaller Yanmar (15 PTO hp). That works ok but it has to be half-empty before I can pull it up the steepest slopes in the orchard, due to limited traction when the trailer weighs more than the tractor.

Post some photos when you get it in use!

 

[dchad]

Wow, that's an impressive modification. Did you have to change the axle and hubs?
Looks like you have a quick connect with a tow bar across it, yes? How do you keep the tow bar from spinning? I've seen the little attachments at TSC, but those won't fit a quick connect.

 

[California]

Wow, that's an impressive modification. Did you have to change the axle and hubs?
Looks like you have a quick connect with a tow bar across it, yes? How do you keep the tow bar from spinning? I've seen the little attachments at TSC, but those won't fit a quick connect.

You're asking about my watering trailer? It's not modified aside from those 12 inch car tires, off a Chevelle or something that had 4-bolt lugs. (wider than 5.00x12 trailer tires). The trailer was a well-used $25 Craigslist find. Photo.

2600 lbs loaded is grossly over the spec capacity of a half ton but I don't need highway-grade safety margin. if something ever fails, just drain the water and drag it back to the welder in the barn. Actually I did bend something: backing up uphill in very soft ground with the 8" tires half buried, the tongue bent. I straightened it and welded on a piece of bedframe angle iron to stiffen it.
.

As for stabilizing the drawbar in the qhitch I welded adapter sleeves to (removable) small plates then bolted both ends of the plate to the drawbar. My 10 years use hasn't bent the plates - but higher hp would.

 

[dchad]

Adapter sleeves??

Could I see what the other side of your qattach looks like?

BTW, One more vote for easy to work on. For some reason my 1700 got stuck in one gear, and I couldn't shift it, or find neutral. Looked at the parts breakdown on the hoyes site, and decided to look into the tranny. Some how the shifter had slipped through the "clogs" on the shift forks and was outside of all of them. I pulled it apart, lined up the shift forks to neutral, and it was pretty simple to tell where they lined up on the gears. Put it all back and it shifts like new.

Going to take your suggestion and drain and flush my radiator. Without a temp gauge I want to make sure I've got clean fluid at the right mixture to operate properly. I was thinking of making it a 35/65 mix. It gets pretty cold here in the winter. Think that mix would have any adverse affect on operation?

The rain has finally stopped here, but we're all flooded out. I'll get you some photos when we're dried up a bit.



Thanks again for all your help.

 

[dchad]

Good evening,

Can anyone tell me what size socket/wrench I need for the #24 bolt in this spec?

Thank you

 

[dchad]

Well it doesn't appear I could attach the drawing. I think it's called a banjo bolt.

On the YM1700, it's the bolt that attaches the pressure hydraulic line to the three point, or at least to the top of the casing.

Thank you,

 

[California]

Adapter sleeves?? Could I see what the other side of your qattach looks like?


View attachment 655820

There's not much to look at. That little plate in my photo is bolted to the hole at the end of the drawbar and to the first larger hole. I have an early HF QH that needs Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings on the implement to fit the hooks in the QH. So I mounted the drawbar using those bushings, bolted the plates, and tack-welded the visible part of the bushing to the plate. Then I carried the bushing/plate assemblies into the shop and welded beads down the front and back of the bushing/plate joint. These weld beads bearing against the front and back of the QH's hooks bear the twisting stress and stiffen the plates.

The sleeves aren't welded to the drawbar so my adapters can be unbolted and removed, but I never have.

I think later QH's come with larger OD bushings for your implements so use a pair of those to make these anti-twist gadgets.

I'm back in town now after a week out at the ranch (orchard) or I would take a better photo. That's the only photo I have that shows my anti-twist adapters. I've used these since 2009 and they haven't bent.

 

[dchad]

There's not much to look at. That little plate in my photo is bolted to the hole at the end of the drawbar and to the first larger hole. I have an early HF QH that needs Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings on the implement to fit the hooks in the QH. So I mounted the drawbar using those bushings, bolted the plates, and tack-welded the visible part of the bushing to the plate. Then I carried the bushing/plate assemblies into the shop and welded beads down the front and back of the bushing/plate joint. These weld beads bearing against the front and back of the QH's hooks bear the twisting stress and stiffen the plates.

The sleeves aren't welded to the drawbar so my adapters can be unbolted and removed, but I never have.

I think later QH's come with larger OD bushings for your implements so use a pair of those to make these anti-twist gadgets.

I'm back in town now after a week out at the ranch (orchard) or I would take a better photo. That's the only photo I have that shows my anti-twist adapters. I've used these since 2009 and they haven't bent.

Ah, I got it. I wasn稚 really familiar with cat1 to cat2 bushings but that makes since. For once, no additional photos needed. Haha.

Thanks again for tip.

 

[clemsonfor]

I have removed mine lots swapping the lift valve. If I remember right, which I put little faith in I'm thinking 24? It's in my larger metric set from harbor freight though

 

[dchad]

Hey Clemson,

Thanks for the guess, haha. My metric sockets ended with 21, and I thought I might just buy a single socket to fit the bolt, but was in town today, and bought a larger set of mm sockets from NT. Harbor freight is a long way from me.

A man can never have too many tools. It's probably time my metric stuff caught up to my SAE.

Why are you swapping lift valves? Failure?

 

[clemsonfor]

Long story. I have a post on it. I forget the thread title. Search my name on posts I have started.

But the gist of it is, my original exploded internally while I was disking foodplots. Ordered the replacement from Hoye. The first one the bolt holes were machined off. I could only get three bolts in it. The o ring blew out cause of the uneven pressure from three bolts. He sent a replacement, it too was bad, was bypassing internally is all I can assume. Aaron made it right. I swapped out with a used original one he had (he didn't have it when I first ordered). To Aaron's defense he said I was literally the only one that had issues with these. No hard feelings with me though. Aaron made it right with me, and gave me the best customer service one could ask for and I still buy my parts from them. I am in no way bashing Hoye, I want to make that clear.