Which backhoe for B3030?

[Fjord]

Thanks for the information.I already have a rubber block I put in the lever slot for the 3pt to prevent raising it too fast when not at the 1/4" ( first detent ) position. I could easily make another longer one to put in when BH is installed to prevent accidentally hitting the lever and raising it.Of course first I have to actually buy the BH. Thanks again.

 

[Stef]

Thanks for the information.I already have a rubber block I put in the lever slot for the 3pt to prevent raising it too fast when not at the 1/4" ( first detent ) position. I could easily make another longer one to put in when BH is installed to prevent accidentally hitting the lever and raising it.Of course first I have to actually buy the BH. Thanks again.

There's a quicker way to prevent the operation of the 3pt hitch when the backhoe is mounted: turn the lowering speed knob to the "lock" position. That way the hitch cannot be moved.

 

[Stef]

The heavy mainframe is bolted to the tractor all the way up to the FEL's mainframe. The torque to mount the bolts is high, however occasionally it probably is wise to check the torque, but no different than checking the FEL's mainframe's securement.

I'm with you on this one. I check, from time to time, the torque of the loader and bakchoe mainframe bolts and it happens that a bolt needs to be retightened. It's normal but it could dangerous if the owner don't check that kind of stuff once in a while. It's part of the "have fun and be safe!" using your tractor.

 

[dfkrug]

I'm with you on this one. I check, from time to time, the torque of the loader and bakchoe mainframe bolts and it happens that a bolt needs to be retightened. It's normal but it could dangerous if the owner don't check that kind of stuff once in a while. It's part of the "have fun and be safe!" using your tractor.

Yeah, getting people to check bolt tightness is hard. I have lost count of
the times I have seen loose bolts on tractors owned by people I help.

My experience is that new equipment, including newly mounted FELs or
hoe subframes need bolt tightening, almost for a certainty.

That said, I am happy to see that Woods has made the trade-off between
fast removal of pinned subframes and tighter mounting of bolted subframes
in their newer 4-pt subframes. They even provide the wrench for the
1" bolts, with a wrench holder pocket. Their earlier pinned-on subframes
had some wiggle to them.

 

[bialecki]

Attached you can see the Woods BH subframe and how it connects up with the FEL frame and the tractor subframe. The beauty of the design is that I can have the FEL attached, the BH attached and the MMM attached. I can see it now, cutting the lawn with all the attachments on and having the neighbors think I lost my rocker, Heck if the dandelions crop up I can dig them up while mowing with the BH.

 

[ats64mod]

Bialecki,

What brand/model of lights are you using on your ROPS? Did you install an alternator as well, or do you just use the existing electrical system?

Thanks.

 

[Jim Nelson]

O.K. guys I just got my B-7800 back from the dealer this afternoon with a new BH-75 hoe and in the short time I had to play it seems great.One real big problem that I found after checking it out a little closer is the hydraulic filter has very little clearance from the sub-frame.It looks to me like you might have to at least loosen the sub-frame to change the filter.Anyone else run into this?
Thanks
Jim

 

[Stef]

O.K. guys I just got my B-7800 back from the dealer this afternoon with a new BH-75 hoe and in the short time I had to play it seems great.One real big problem that I found after checking it out a little closer is the hydraulic filter has very little clearance from the sub-frame.It looks to me like you might have to at least loosen the sub-frame to change the filter.Anyone else run into this?
Thanks
Jim

No, you should have enough room to change the filter. I had the backhoe and the tractor at the same time and I do all the maintenance myself. No problem except, on a B3030, the middle part of the loader's frame (beneath the tractor) runs right beneath the engine oil drain plugs. It's a real PITA the first time you do an oil change.

 

[bialecki]

Bialecki,

What brand/model of lights are you using on your ROPS? Did you install an alternator as well, or do you just use the existing electrical system?

Thanks.

The halogen lights shown on my tractor are Hobbs, Case Tractor part # ZAA7786149 They have a built in switch and have a flood pattern. I bought them from Bob Wolff at Woodbury Tractor, Woodbury Tractor Company, LLC and the cost where $29.84 each. He can UPS them to you.

I did not find the need to upgrade to an alternator, the OEM dynamo is working satisfactorily. I use the lamps only about 20% of the time and never had an issue with draining the battery. If in the future if I find the drain to be too much on the battery I can upgrade to the Kubota alternator kit.

 

[dfkrug]

Hey Bialecki, what is that grey member just below the arrowheads
in your photo? A MMM mount? A custom-built skid plate perhaps?