Which backhoe for B3030?

[bandit67]

I don't have a loader on my B3030, as I don't yet have a B3030. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I'm just trying to research everything as thoroughly as possible so that when I'm ready to pull the trigger, I'll know exactly what to order.

I am not even considering a 3pt mount backhoe, only a 4 point subframe, and from what I've seen of smaller Woods hoes, they add plenty of steel subframe to protect the machine from breakage.

As far as the PTO pump is concerned, you're really only getting another .8 gpm over what the B3030 pump is putting out, because the only thing you're putting all of that 5.2 gpm toward is the backhoe for 90-95% of backhoe use. At least that's the way I figure it.

However, based on some of the feedback, and some additional thoughts on my part, I don't think I can justify going with the Woods BH70X's smaller hoe just to get the thumb option, for $800 more than the BH75. To me, the only reason for going with a Woods hoe is to get the larger, more powerful 80, but since I'm getting more feedback all the way around that the 80 is too big for the B3030, I'm thinking it'd be more worth spending my money on a lightweight, removable FEL bucket grapple - I'd get a whole lot more use out of that.

The rear remote issue is not going to be a deciding factor on which backhoe, as I already know I need the remotes for, at the very least, a top-n-tilt.

 

[Sully2]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The hydraulic feed is not standard with tractor, only when BH is installed...atleast that has been the case with the two Kubotas I've had (B7500, L2800). )</font>

As far as what Im told..thats 100% correct. The rear on my B3030 is blocked off with a plate..and if/when I buy a BH that operated from the tractor hyd's..then the hardware necessary to operate are included in the price of the backhoe...OR ( again..from what my dealer told me) I can add the hardware for $550 to use the tractor hyd's to run say a log splitter..etc..etc.

 

[Northland]

I'm thinking it'd be more worth spending my money on a lightweight, removable FEL bucket grapple - I'd get a whole lot more use out of that.

That's exactly what I figured as well so I just ordered a Tatro grapple for the bucket of my B7800. Now I have to figure out what remote valve kit to buy in order for it to work off my loader joystick. The WR Long ones are $600 complete.

 

[Jim Nelson]

Why would you change all the fluid every time you removed the hoe?I just bought the BH-75 for my B-7800 and will have it installed 4/16.No mention of changing fluid.My reason for preferring the seperate system would be that if you blow a line it could incapacitate the whole tractor

 

[ats64mod]

I've spoken with several dealers, including Neil @ Messicks, and they've all told me that even though the B3030 will handle the Woods BH80-X, they don't really recommend it for this tractor. The primary reason is that it's a pretty big hoe and can "toss" the tractor around a bit more than one might want...

For this reason, and the additional money for the Woods, I went with the BH75 with an aftermarket thumb - heck, I'm only giving up a few hundred pounds of digging force that I'll probably never notice anyway (3780 vs. 3339 at the bucket and 2480 vs. 2097 using the dipperstick). Additionally, unless I'm mistaken, the BH75 is a slightly more compact unit as well.

It sure is easy to get caught up in the numbers game isn't it???

 

[BrianW]

Why would you change all the fluid every time you removed the hoe?I just bought the BH-75 for my B-7800 and will have it installed 4/16.No mention of changing fluid.My reason for preferring the seperate system would be that if you blow a line it could incapacitate the whole tractor

I have the BH-75. I have removed and replaced it many times. In fact one day I wished I had two tractors because I removed it and replaced it four times. It is really not that hard to do. The fluid stays trapped in the backhoe and you just connect the supply and return lines together. If you broke a hose on the backhoe you could just connect these two lines together and bypass the hoe.

I am not sure what Sully means about changing the fluid. I have only changed mine at the 50 hour point so far.

 

[bialecki]

Seeing that the B3030 and the B7800 are nearly the same in size and power, attached are a few photos of my B7800 with the Woods BH70X with thumb. I also included a photo showing the hydraulic hook-up. I had my dealer plumb a supply and a return from the hydraulic distribution manifold. When the BH is not in use I just connect the supply and the return so I don't "dead head" the line. The Kubota pump supplies plenty of hydraulic power for the BH, I don't see a need to use the PTO and power a separate pump.

Secondly, I looked at the BH80X but it was too large for the B7800, if I was going to primarily dig with the tractor I would not have gone with the B7800, but something larger like the L series Kubota, or a Case tractor, they are heavier than the B series which as a benefit helps make them more stable when digging.

Lastly, for my application I went with a 12" bucket as well.

Just my comments from when I did my due diligence when I was shopping for a BH.

Dennis Bialecki

 

[Fjord]

. I also included a photo showing the hydraulic hook-up. .....
Just my comments from when I did my due diligence when I was shopping for a BH.

Dennis Bialecki

I am also considering a BH70X for my B7800. I was told that the 3pt hitch lift arms had to be removed to install the BH, but in your photo it appears that they are still in place.Does this work out O.K.? Or am I seeing something that's not there?
Thanks

 

[Stef]

I am also considering a BH70X for my B7800. I was told that the 3pt hitch lift arms had to be removed to install the BH, but in your photo it appears that they are still in place.Does this work out O.K.? Or am I seeing something that's not there?
Thanks

There seems to be a lot of room beneath the plateform to leave the hitch mounted. IMHO, you have to be careful not to use the hitch while the backhoe is mounted. But it has a plus: no hassle about put/remove the hitch.

Is it me or the pieces of the Woods main frame is... bolted? (third picture) Since it's not welded, one must not forget to check the torque of those bolts from time to time. Nevertheless, Woods make nice backhoes.

 

[bialecki]

I was told that the 3pt hitch lift arms had to be removed to install the BH, but in your photo it appears that they are still in place.Does this work out O.K.? Or am I seeing something that's not there?
Thanks

Nope, just be careful not to lift them too high when the BH is installed. You are physically on the BH seat so to reach around and lift the 3 pt hitch is not practical, so you can leave them on during hookup, operation of the BH and removal of the BH.

Is it me or the pieces of the Woods main frame is... bolted? (third picture) Since it's not welded, one must not forget to check the torque of those bolts from time to time.

The heavy mainframe is bolted to the tractor all the way up to the FEL's mainframe. The torque to mount the bolts is high, however occasionally it probably is wise to check the torque, but no different than checking the FEL's mainframe's securement. The ease of mounting and unmounting the Woods BH is very easy, a large 1-1/2" bolt on each top side of the frame. Also you can see in Photo #1, I did leave the towing hitch in place as well, could have easily removed it, but I would probably misplace it somewheres in my garage, or cellar.

In general I am very happy with the quality (tolerances are very good), ease of use and efficacy of the Woods BH.