Wheel motors

[ddonnell]

Are the wheel motors on a new 425 comparable in durability to traditional axles like on my CUT? Motor issues seem to be discussed here some, and a little insight into potential problems, maintainence routines, and any other tidbits would be appreciated. My hydraulic experience is limited to using my loader and 3pt., and this unique hydraulic drivetrain design would be a new experience. Are these motors essentially sealed devices that don't require routine lubrication etc., and if one pukes do you simply replace it? Are they expensive to replace? Thanks.

 

[J_J]

Are the wheel motors on a new 425 comparable in durability to traditional axles like on my CUT? Motor issues seem to be discussed here some, and a little insight into potential problems, maintainence routines, and any other tidbits would be appreciated. My hydraulic experience is limited to using my loader and 3pt., and this unique hydraulic drivetrain design would be a new experience. Are these motors essentially sealed devices that don't require routine lubrication etc., and if one pukes do you simply replace it? Are they expensive to replace? Thanks.

Nothing last forever, but if you keep the hydraulic fluid clean and use the correct type, it will give a reasonably life expectancy. Hydraulic fluid lubes the motor. It is built in several parts, and has moving pieces. Hydraulic fluid under pressure caused the motor to rotate. Hydraulic motors usually fail because of wear and tear caused by debris is the system. Pieces of metal, o-rings, and very fine particles. The filter on the PT, filters particles greater than 10 microns, and it's the particles smaller than the filter design that slowly grind away at the internal workings of the motor. The motors can easily be repaired, by your self or a hydraulic shop. You can also replace it with a new one, how ever, they are not cheap. Usually in the $400 to $600 range. It mostly depends on your mechanical capabilities, The hydraulic motors usually last a long time except for some of the problems noted above. I am sure every one would like larger motors, but the pump is matched to the motors and the rest of the system. The operation of the hydraulic motor is simple. fluid is forced into the motor, and it starts turning in response to the pump speed and a control lever. It has variable speed and is reversible. The motors used by PT use regular automotive oil, instead of tractor hydraulicfluid. Some people use synthetic 10W-40. The reason is that oil like 10W-40 can be found just about anywhere, and has qualities similar to hydraulic fluid.

 

[ddonnell]

J.J.

When you speak of repairing the motors yourself, are we talking bearings, seals, cups, and stuff like that? Would you think the motors could or should go 1000 hrs. before an overhaul if properly maintained?

Also, with all this hydraulic fluid flying all over, are little leaks fairly commonplace? Thanks.
Dave

 

[J_J]

J.J.

When you speak of repairing the motors yourself, are we talking bearings, seals, cups, and stuff like that? Would you think the motors could or should go 1000 hrs. before an overhaul if properly maintained?

Also, with all this hydraulic fluid flying all over, are little leaks fairly commonplace? Thanks.
Dave

Yes, all the above. About hydraulic leaks . Even new equipment will leak. If it is just fittings, just re tighten. If you blow a seal from over working replace the seal. If a hose wears through, replace it. Some people go years with out any leaks. Sometimes you will get into a situation called hydraulic lock, when you can't plug your hoses in. You just have to release the pressure. If you read this forum, you will find just about any fix for the PT. Most of them have been there and done it. I believe this forum is much better than a factory manual.

 

[DHS]

Dave,

I have 560 hours on my PT-422. I have had no problems with wheel motors. The motors are sealed units and require no routine maintenace. The only hydraulic problem I had was a leaking steering valve seal and I replaced it. I had electrical problems that caused the PTO solenoid to not operate. I did replace the seal on my roto-tiller motor now that I think about it. I use my roto-tiller on my beach in the sand and water and rocks.

Watching the PT comments for the past several years has not indicated, to me, a particular weakness or problem common to all owners. I have had a few problems in areas I have not seen listed by others and others have had problems that I have not had.

It is frustrating the first couple of times it breaks. With help from the terrific members on this board and PT's Tazewell help it isn't hard to get the machine running again. In the future I intend to utilize Tazewell for more hydraulic seal replacements and similar problems. I used my local hydraulic guy for my roto-tiller seal problem and he was slow and expensive.

Hope this helps.

Merry Christmas

Dale

 

[ddonnell]

Dale,

Does Power Trac suggest routine seal replacements at certain intervals, or is it more of "wait for something to leak/go wrong"? I'm pretty good at routine maintainence with my CUT and would try to follow manufacturer's guidelines if there are any. I guess the real question here is what is routine maintainence for a PT? I would hope it wouldn't involve a whole lot more than my tractor. Unfortunately, dicussions about machines on any forum, not just PT, sometimes focus (and understandably so) on what went wrong as versus what goes right. I am all but sold on switching from CUT to PT but I really don't need extra maintainence hassles if you know what I mean.

Thanks for the reply and Merry Christmas to you and yours too.

Dave

 

[J_J]

The sealed wheel motors mentioned above, are not really sealed. They can be taken apart for bearing and seal replacement. This is something that you do not take apart or fool with unless it leaks somewhere. If it aient broke don't fix it. A regular grease job on certain parts are required on routine maintenance.
If your tires give you any trouble, just add slime or put a tube in.

 

[ddonnell]

Thanks J.J. and Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

 

[MuncyBob]

JJ...where can you get a double valve stem tube? I have a wheel that constantly leaks and requires air every 4 days or so...have had the tire off, rim cleaned but still leaks. I would rather tube it then slime it though.

 

[MossRoad]

I tubed one of my tires. I just had them leave the inside valve stem in place for a plug and run the tub'es valve stem out the outside hole. I never add air through the inside valve stem anyway.

 

[J_J]

JJ...where can you get a double valve stem tube? I have a wheel that constantly leaks and requires air every 4 days or so...have had the tire off, rim cleaned but still leaks. I would rather tube it then slime it though.

To find a leak, I use a spray bottle of water with some detergent in it. I spray the whole tire. It will show the leak by bubbles appearing. It work every time

I have never seen a dual valve stem tube. I believe the rim that has two holes for tire stems, was designed so it would be easy to fill from the outside, no matter if the tires were reversed or not. I think it is best if you slime it, because if you get a puncture with a tube, you have to break the tire down and repair. If it is a small puncture, you could slime the tube, and prevent other leaks. They say that slime will stop up a 1/4 in puncture. It is best if you break down the tire on one side and add slime. It is just to slow to add it through the valve stem.

One note of caution if you are going to put a tube in. After you break the tire down, use a rag and wipe around the inside of the tire to check for small nails that you can't see from the outside. If you don't, and put the tube in, you will destroy the tube. I did that one time, so that is how I know.

You can also do hot patches, if you can find them. The patch actually vulcanizes to the rubber. Side walls are a little difficult because they twist, and flex more than the bottom .

I believe that somebody on this web site had a mixture of antifreeze and slime in their tires.

 

[KentT]

I have a mixture of winter-mix windshield washer fluid and tire sealant in mine, but it isn't Slime. It's Hydro-Seal, designed specifically for use in fluid-filled tires.

It works well. Except for breaking a valve stem, I've had NO flats since I put it in, where I'd already had four flats previously... Thorns, stubble and such are hard on tires when working in the woods.

 

[MossRoad]

... It is best if you break down the tire on one side and add slime. It is just to slow to add it through the valve stem.
...

I forget who, but some kind soul told me to let all of the air out of my tire, remove the valve guts from the stem, attach the slime bottle, then lift the weight off of the tire with the FEL (or a jack for a rear tire) and it will suck the slime in as the tire returns to its normal shape. I tried it. It works great. Thanks to the person that told me this!!!

 

[kmaz]

Mossroad, I believe that be fourteen.

Kris

 

[RegL]

Mossroad, I believe that be fourteen.

Kris

That makes sense. Reversed pressure!

 

[MossRoad]

Mossroad, I believe that be fourteen.

Kris

ARRRRrr!!! I believe ye be correct.

That makes sense. Reversed pressure!

Yep. Reversed pressure, reversed wheels... it all adds up.

 

[MuncyBob]

Perhaps I'll try to slime the tire. Would a 32oz. bottle do more than 1 tire?

 

[BAGTIC]

I have 196 hours on my 425. It is out of service right now with the second leaking wheel motor, and an electrical short.

I keep it full of fluid and change the filters regularly. Just can't understand two leaking motors in less than 6 months.

It also has an electrical short that I haven't tracked down yet. I had a freight delivery here last week. They said I needed either a loading dock or a fork lift. I told them my tractor forks would handle the load. I heard the truck turn off the paved road about 5/8 mile away and started up the tractor to warm it up.

The driver made it to my place and I told him where to back up for unloading. Just as he opened the back of the truck the tractor died and nothing would get it started. Fortunately the item really wasn't very heavy (175 pounds) so we unloaded by hand. That was easy. Living down the embarassment is gpoing to be more difficult.

 

[Piedmont3]

Bagtic,
I had the same problem and found that there is a fuse (15 or 20 Amp) That is in a clip on holder attached to a wire that runs on the bottom of the engine compartment to the engine. Check it to see if it is good and connected correctly. Mine was a good fuse but had lost connection because of vibration. I fixed it and my 425 started again very easily.

 

[RegL]

I finally decided to do something about the leaking wheel motor I've had for a couple months on the 1430.. I got an estimate from PT of about $110. to $120 plus shipping for them to repair. I'm going to do that, but first I'm having them send out a new one ( $496 ) so I can swap it out with little down time. Also, I don't have a nice clean storage area for the tractor, so I don't really want to leave it all apart for a week or two. And with about 700 hours on the PT now, it's not a bad idea to have a spare motor on the shelf.