My Backhoe needs and engine rebuild

[EddieWalker]

I was searching online for a place that rebuilds injector pumps and came across a guy on another forum that a lot of them have used. I sent him an email that explained the fuel in the oil issue and my belief that it's coming from the injector pump. I'm also worried about the timing of the injector pump because it sounds like a big issue when putting it back in.

This is his reply.

Hello Eddie, thanks for writing..
What I can do for you that will save u a bunch of time is..
Only replace the front seals..
The pump has a “lock timing bolt” on the mounting flange on the pump..
Just loosen the screw (10mm), move the washer to where the bolt will pass thru it and tighten up on the pump drive shaft..
I can replace the seals w/o unlocking the pump.. so it will be in the exact same place as where u took it off..
To do it correctly, you put the engine at TDC, then lock the pump..
That pump is VERY time consuming.!!! And to be honest I don’t have the time to o/h one..
I understand if u want it o/h’d, but if not and you’ll be satisfied with new front seals for $250.00, I’d be glad to fit u in.
Let me know if you’re interested and I’ll send you my shipping address.

 

[Hay Dude]

Would fuel in the oil produce white smoke?

 

[EddieWalker]

Mechanical pump it is that. The diaphragm can leak fuel while it is pumping, but not when stopped due to pressure while working

I'll take it off and look at it. It's pretty simple to do. Would it still work if it's leaking? The engine fires right up and runs strong. I replaced it because it wouldn't start a couple years ago.

 

[TractorTech]

It will work even with it leaking. It is the easiest, cheapest thing to check and rule out if it isn't the fuel problem.

 

[EddieWalker]

Rained all day yesterday and it's looking the same for today.

I need to set the engine to TDC before removing and locking the injector pump.

It seems silly to ask, but how do you do this without removing the injector for the first cylinder or removing the valve cover? Or do I have to remove things to figure out where TDC is? And just to be sure, TDC is on the compression stroke when both valves are closed?

 

[TractorTech]

TDC would be on the compression stroke when both valves are closed and flywheel 0°

 

[EddieWalker]

Thank you. Is there a mark somewhere that tells me where zero is? Once it stops raining, I'll have to do some looking.

 

[dodge man]

I had a car that would crack the fuel pump diaphragm and dump gas in the oil. It ran fine too.

 

[grsthegreat]

i wish it would rain here. On day 14 without any rainfall, and even back 14 days we only had 0.10”

 

[ultrarunner]

Same here… typical summer without a drop…

Water bills are like car payments to maintain a front /back residential lawn…

 

[grsthegreat]

My winter water bill is $35/month. Summer is $125 this last month. Just to grow green grass that i have to trim.

 

[ultrarunner]

I’ve had $450 monthly summer water/sewer when keeping the rear lawn and fruit trees happy…

My TLB is down with a worn out joystick…

It runs well enough but I find sucking exhaust makes me sick…

No smoke but a n95 respirator makes all the difference in the world for me…

Are backhoe short blocks available or is it rebuild what you have?

 

[rScotty]

As a cheap fast test, I would start the engine and then crack open an injector line one at a time and watch for a change in the exhaust smoke color. I have a bad exhaust / seat interface on cylinder four on one of my tractors. it has enough compression to fire that cylinder but results in blue/white smoke out of number 4's exhaust port. If I crack open #4 injectors pipe nut the smoking ceases. If your problem is somehow related to weak compression caused by a valve problem on a single cylinder this will expose it.

Does the exhaust smell like :
1. unburned diesel - burns your eyes
2. sickly sweet- antifreeze
3. burned engine oil

#1 is what poor combustion can cause and will smell of unburned diesel. Also overly tight adjustments on the intake and/or exhaust valves can cause this without any damage and a perfectly good injector and injection event but don't believe it would happen instantly
#2 cracked head/blown head gasket, and it certainly can just leak into the combustion area at first and not immediately change the oil to a milky color.

I would also check the intake tract for oil, Although I don't think the TLB's used the oil bath air filters wondering if there is any way the engine could somehow be getting oil into the intake manifold, that said, I agree that the main problem is diesel diluted engine oil (since you stated the engine oil does have a diesel odor) that is coming from a bad shaft seal on the injector pump or lift pump and dumping it into the front engine cover gear case and therefore engine oil sump pan. An older engine with marginal piston ring seal will let quite a bit more super thin oil by all four cylinders piston rings and with an increased oil level will also add to the oil past piston ring effects. If the exhaust smells like burned engine oil.

ps. I would probably dump the engine oil / filter and replace it with fresh 15W-40 to do some more testing.

White smoke is coolant entering the cylinders. Mine was a leaking head gasket, but could be a cracked block.

The oil level increasing is diesel entering from a leaking injection pump. The oil analysis will tell you for sure.

Does the white smoke smell strongly of diesel fumes? If so, that is not coolant. It could be unburned diesel from too low of engine compression.

I think a compression test followed by a radiator leak-down test will tell you which way to go.

Be sure to use a diesel kit for compression test. The automotive kind will not work.
Throttle off, do all cylinders, cranking times should be roughly equal, and note the cranking RPM.
This will tell you if you need a ring and valve job.

For the leak down test any automotive test is fine. It will test for an internal coolant leak ....usually a head gasket.

luck,
rScotty

 

[EddieWalker]

The smoke choked me, but I really don't remeber if I smelled anything other than oil in it. It wasn't until a few days later when I pulled the dipstick and smelled it that I smelled diesel. I really thought it was hydraulic oil and never thought to smell the oil. My mind wasn't on diesel or coolant, so my tunnel vision stopped me from really thinking of what it smelled like.

There are short blocks and full rebuilds available for this engine. There are also a lot of kits out there to do it from an in frame rebuild to pulling it and doing everything. Before I do that, I'll talk to the machine shop that did my dump truck. It's a gas engine, but I think he said that he does diesel engines too. He might be able to rebuild it cheaper than I can if I bring the entire engine to him.

I'll look on Amazon for a compression tester for diesels. I don't have one and I've never done it before.

 

[TractorTech]

Thank you. Is there a mark somewhere that tells me where zero is? Once it stops raining, I'll have to do some looking.

There is a timing window on the RH side of the bell housing next to the oil pan. Loosen the screw to pivot the cover open to see the flywheel and timing marks.

If you have the earlier DPS injection pump, you don't have time it as the injection pump drive gear is keyed to the pump

 

[dodge man]

I would sure do a lot of diagnostic work before going down the rebuild road. My gut reaction is you don’t need a rebuild. It was a sudden event. I suppose a piston or rings could crack suddenly but my bet is fuel pump or injection pump.

 

[EddieWalker]

There is a timing window on the RH side of the bell housing next to the oil pan. Loosen the screw to pivot the cover open to see the flywheel and timing marks.

If you have the earlier DPS injection pump, you don't have time it as the injection pump drive gear is keyed to the pump

Thank you. I was hoping there was something like that!!!!!

 

[EddieWalker]

The Oil Report is in from Blackstone. This is what the "Comments" say

EDDIE: We did not find any water in the oil, and the lack thereof allowed us to test the oil's flashpoint. That value is very low, indicating that over 10.0% of this sample is fuel (the maximum we can report). The fuel explains why the engine is "making oil" and is also the reason for the oil's very thin viscosity. Change this oil, and have the fuel system inspected closely. The fuel is diluting the spectral results, so we're not getting a good gauge on wear and additive levels are lower than we'd otherwise see them. Apart from the fuel, there is no contamination evident. Caution!

I really don't know what the rest of it is saying, but for me the main thing is that my issue is the Fuel Injector Pump and I'm lucky to have stopped running it when I did.

 

[dodge man]

You probably don’t have to worry about anything other then the source of the fuel leak.

 

[BleedingOrange]

I was wondering how you were progressing with the oil sample. Thanks for the update.
Are you going to have the fuel injector pump re-built, or just replaced ?