What did I do wrong drilling these holes?

[5030]

Monarch 10” lathe with 0.00005” runout incredible.

Sounds like fantasy to me. Not even my top of the line LeBlond Servo Shift toolroom lathe has anywhere close to that TIR. Only thing I own that even comes close is my Kent surface grinder and it's more like 10 millionths on the fine down feed. Spindle is pressure lubed ABECC class 5 bearings and the table is running on frictionless hardened spherical ball bearings, also pressure lubed. The more things you add to a spindle the lousier the TIR gets.

 

[Smokeydog]

Sounds like fantasy to me. Not even my top of the line LeBlond Servo Shift toolroom lathe has anywhere close to that TIR. Only thing I own that even comes close is my Kent surface grinder and it's more like 10 millionths on the fine down feed. Spindle is pressure lubed ABECC class 5 bearings and the table is running on frictionless hardened spherical ball bearings, also pressure lubed. The more things you add to a spindle the lousier the TIR gets.

These type of guys make the impossible, possible long before you or I were born. If you could dream it they could build it. Most of the time build or modify machines to do it. Not every lathe or mill they had was that precision and they knew they had a unicorn. Saved for high precision work. Common place in my neck of the woods.

 

[NoTrespassing]

Sounds like fantasy to me. Not even my top of the line LeBlond Servo Shift toolroom lathe has anywhere close to that TIR. Only thing I own that even comes close is my Kent surface grinder and it's more like 10 millionths on the fine down feed. Spindle is pressure lubed ABECC class 5 bearings and the table is running on frictionless hardened spherical ball bearings, also pressure lubed. The more things you add to a spindle the lousier the TIR gets.

TIR on the 1984 Hardinge Super Precision I run daily since new is listed as .000025 collet seat concentricity. I don't have an indicator that can check it.

 

[5030]

Collett closers and collets in the spindle bore are as accurate as the bearings in the headstock are and if you bothered to read my comment, it said... The more you add to a spindle, ie; a chuck or faceplate or any spindle nose mounted accessory, the sloppier the TIR becomes. TIR always depends on the rotating concentricity of whatever you add to the nose, always. Of course there are other factors involved like tool deflection, ambient temperature, temperature of the headstock bearings and if the machine is properly levelled as well.

When I produce my bushings out of drill rod for my bushing dies, I always chuck them in a collet but that is about the only time I use a collet. Most times a 4 or 6 jaw chuck is on the spindle nose (plate) as it's a D1 6 spindle.

 

[5030]

I don't have an indicator that can check it.

I don't either actually, so we have to assume the accuracy as stated and I really don't like to assume.

Like my toolroom grinder, one has mark on the vernier handwheel scale equals one millionth of an inch. Never seen that, cannot see that actually. You cannot even spark a wheel at that setting.

 

[NoTrespassing]

Sounds like fantasy to me. Not even my top of the line LeBlond Servo Shift toolroom lathe has anywhere close to that TIR. Only thing I own that even comes close is my Kent surface grinder and it's more like 10 millionths on the fine down feed. Spindle is pressure lubed ABECC class 5 bearings and the table is running on frictionless hardened spherical ball bearings, also pressure lubed. The more things you add to a spindle the lousier the TIR gets.

Just curious, what is your Leblond Servo Shift toolroom lathe's claimed spindle TIR?

 

[5030]

I'd have to go look and I'm inside the house, not in the shop. I'd have to pull the manuals out. I bought it used at a machinery auction about 15 years ago along with 2 vertical Bridgeport mills. One a manual Series 2 (which I converted to Cat tooling and added through spindle coolant) and the other a Versa-Trak with conversational programming. Everything came out of a defense supplier's toolroom so it was all in excellent condition. Moved it all myself and rigged it all in as well. Pipes make the best machinery rollers. So does a tri axle gooseneck. My F350 worked hard on that haul.

Had to borrow a buddy's big JD ag tractor with his front end loader to get the machines off the trailer, way too heavy for my Kubota to pick up.

I'll look and post it when I get out there. Impossible to ascertain it anyway without optical measurement tools which I don't have. Best I can do is a 10th. Have 3 engine lathes total., 2 mills a toolroom surface grinder, hydraulic arbor press and lots of tooling as well. If I need something, I usually make it.

My big thing is welding actually. I'm a TIG junkie.

 

[Ken45101]

like asking me what the difference between hydraulic oil and engine oil is? I dont know the technical details other than I dont run hydro oil in my engine and dont use engine oil in my HST. Beyond that....i dont know the technical "engineering" difference.

I run the same oil both ways.

Deere recommends the same oil (JD Plus 50 oil) for both the engine and the hydraulics on my JD325 skid steer.

 

[jwmorris]

Off hand sharpening is an acquired skill.

I think owning a lathe helps, allows the learner to see what flute is cutting, if not both and can see how each are cutting easier when the part is turning and not the tool.

I don't either actually, so we have to assume the accuracy as stated and I really don't like to assume.

Yeah, this indicator has proven many a spec sheet to be. “optimistic”.

 

[rScotty]

I run the same oil both ways.

Deere recommends the same oil (JD Plus 50 oil) for both the engine and the hydraulics on my JD325 skid steer.

John Deere makes the same recommendation on my JD 310 Super G. I had them double check the serial numbers against the original build sheet just to make sure that the internal hydraulic seals are the new type that are O for using Plus 50 oil - and they were.

So the next time the yellow JD shop came out to service the machine we replaced filters, oil, and hoses they talked me into using the Plus 50 5w40. I went with it becasue it saved many hundreds of dollars over their HyGard trans/hydraulic oil.

I've learned DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU LIVE IN A COLD CLIMATE! The JD plus 50 5w40 does not flow as well when cold and can starve the hydraulic pump. Anything below about fifteen degrees generates a warning message on the dash. Above about 20F everything is normal.

I'm going to switch back to HyGard before cold weather.

rScotty