What attachment do I need?
- Thread starter MeBuyIt
- Start date
stumblinhorse
Platinum Member
I traded in a landscape rake, a box blade and an arena groomer on a TR3. It really works, if you have enough tractor to pull it…
Wolfy
Veteran Member
You really need a vertical tilting grader blade for a driveway but that said a box blade is so effective for leveling and refurbishing land that I would buy both.
MF243RedTop
Gold Member
Rear blade/back blade .... Able to do everything listed by box blade or land planes and way more. But requires a bit of learning curve to master.
nisaacs
Platinum Member
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- 970 John Deere 4x2, 970 John Deere 4x4, 4320 John Deere, 995 Case/IH
Snow finally melted enough to dress up the street, it was getting washboards in it. Ditches were still too muddy so I left them alone this trip. I need the gravel that's in them, the base is getting thin. Turned out pretty good. I just sold my box blade, I never use it.
Straightgrain3016
Silver Member
The unversal advice I was given; get the heaviest box blade; might apply to all graders...
ovrszd
Epic Contributor
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- Missouri
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My votes, Box Blade or Rear Blade. Broad uses.
I consider the Land Plane Grade System similarly to a Zero Turn mower. Very limited on projects where they are effective. But, in those projects, they are the best choice.
I consider the Land Plane Grade System similarly to a Zero Turn mower. Very limited on projects where they are effective. But, in those projects, they are the best choice.
Straightgrain3016
Silver Member
Nice looking crown
rScotty
Super Member
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- Rural mountains - Colorado
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- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
The absolute best implement I can recommend is real nice but spendy even as a manual adjustable type. It's would be a back blade that has angle, tilt, and offset along with a set of bolt on end caps - and also has a blade that reverses (most do that).
Box blades are real handy - but not in all soil types - so the end caps let a back blade do the work of either a back blade and a box blade - more adjustably - and all in the same implement.
Woods has them. So do others.
OR, THE OTHER WAY.....For very little money, you can just get an old angling backblade that has enough rotation so that the blade can be reversed and then first of alll pull it with the blade facing backwards. Pulling it like that lessens the tendency that newbies have of taking a new tractor and making an old smooth road into a washboard road. You'll know what I mean after you do it.
Now unfortunately that old inexpensive back blade doesn't have a tilt adjustment - and you need to hold the blade tilted to do the initial ditch cleaning and also for the final crowning. So get your blade to work at a tilt by setting the 3pt lift arms at different lengths so that the tilt stays the same as you raise and lower the blade.
Also check and see if it can offset - some old blade can be offset. In fact, that's actually more common than a tilt-adjustable blade - and you''ll find the offset very handy for the ditches.
Try not to bend anything when cleaning out the ditches.
good luck - smoothing drives is harder than it looks the first few times.
rScotty
Box blades are real handy - but not in all soil types - so the end caps let a back blade do the work of either a back blade and a box blade - more adjustably - and all in the same implement.
Woods has them. So do others.
OR, THE OTHER WAY.....For very little money, you can just get an old angling backblade that has enough rotation so that the blade can be reversed and then first of alll pull it with the blade facing backwards. Pulling it like that lessens the tendency that newbies have of taking a new tractor and making an old smooth road into a washboard road. You'll know what I mean after you do it.
Now unfortunately that old inexpensive back blade doesn't have a tilt adjustment - and you need to hold the blade tilted to do the initial ditch cleaning and also for the final crowning. So get your blade to work at a tilt by setting the 3pt lift arms at different lengths so that the tilt stays the same as you raise and lower the blade.
Also check and see if it can offset - some old blade can be offset. In fact, that's actually more common than a tilt-adjustable blade - and you''ll find the offset very handy for the ditches.
Try not to bend anything when cleaning out the ditches.
good luck - smoothing drives is harder than it looks the first few times.
rScotty