What About Bars?

yomax4 · Apr 7, 2014

Tons of info on Chains not so much on bars and after 55 cords of Oak last year, I need a couple new 20" bars for my Stihl 039 and 44 mag. Are the Stihl bars the best? there a dozen brands on e-bay but I have no idea what quality they are. Forester, Sandvik etc. What about those Stainless Steel bars? Any input from you pro's ?

CobyRupert · Apr 8, 2014

I'm only familiar with Oregon & Husky. No problems. If you're cutting 55 cords a year, by several different kinds and you tell us! Good luck.

Ed L · Apr 9, 2014

IME, the price difference between a Stihl bar and a good aftermarket isn't enough to worry about, I'll go with Stihl bars anyday. By the time shipping costs are added in, it's a wash.

The cheap aftermarket bars are just that, cheap. Had a couple of Bailey's "Arborpro" bars, the sprocket tips didn't hold up well and the grooves wore rapidly.

Ed

yomax4 · Apr 9, 2014

Thanks Ed, That's the info I was looking for..

Bluegill2 · Apr 15, 2014

For a Stihl saw, I'd just stay with Stihl bars.

I like Total, Cannon, Sugi Hara , Husky TechLite & Oregon ProLite...

Coyote machine · Apr 15, 2014

Stick to OEM Stihl bars. Flip bar every second chain sharpening to maintain bar grooves and tip wear. And best to have two bars to swap out one for another, if either gets any damage. After two bars wear out get new sprocket for next bar. Clean bar grooves with a bar groove tool and make sure bar remains flat and true. Loosen chain on bar at end of day's use to prevent pressure on bearings.
And don't forget to brush your teeth too.:laughing:

eddie48 · Apr 15, 2014

I would also feel comfortable with bars from the chain manufacturers like Oregon, Sanvik (Windsor) and, maybe Total, although I haven't used their stuff much.

Bluegill2 · Apr 15, 2014

eddie48 said:
I would also feel comfortable with bars from the chain manufacturers like Oregon, Sanvik (Windsor) and, maybe Total, although I haven't used their stuff much.

Oregon, Windsor & Total make very good bars! It's the made in china crap that should be avoided, Forester, ArborPro, etc...

yomax4 · Apr 15, 2014

Coyote machine said:
Stick to OEM Stihl bars. Flip bar every second chain sharpening to maintain bar grooves and tip wear. And best to have two bars to swap out one for another, if either gets any damage. After two bars wear out get new sprocket for next bar. Clean bar grooves with a bar groove tool and make sure bar remains flat and true. Loosen chain on bar at end of day's use to prevent pressure on bearings.
And don't forget to brush your teeth too.:laughing:

Never have released chain pressure at the end of the day to relieve bearings.. Anyone else do that? The teeth brushing has been proven to work though..
Thanks.

Bluegill2 · Apr 15, 2014

yomax4 said:
Never have released chain pressure at the end of the day to relieve bearings.. Anyone else do that? The teeth brushing has been proven to work though..
Thanks.

I never have, but then I don't run my chains tight enough to hurt the bearings?

Coyote machine · Apr 16, 2014

yomax4 said:
Never have released chain pressure at the end of the day to relieve bearings.. Anyone else do that? The teeth brushing has been proven to work though..
Thanks.

Bluegill2 said:
I never have, but then I don't run my chains tight enough to hurt the bearings?

It's discussed in the newer owner's manuals for the Stihl saws. One doesn't have to overtighten the chain to stress the bearings. Many people tighten up the chain when the saw is hot and the chain becomes loose after working the saw for a while. When the saw cools the chain shrinks back to unstretched preheated size and the result can be excess tension on the bearings.

eddie48 · Apr 17, 2014

I suppose it's possible, but it seems that if the chain is tight enough to hurt the bearings, it would be too tight to turn on the bar. I have a Dolmar 115si that is about 15 years old and has cut lots and lots of wood. I've never had to replace either a bar or sprocket on it. Bet I've used up 30 chains.

Coyote machine · Apr 17, 2014

It may not be as much of an issue with the old saws, but since everything made today is out of chocolate, the newer saws are probably more prone to turning into a pretzel. I'm just reporting what the manufacturer states as SOP.:confused3:

Bluegill2 · Apr 17, 2014

Must be a Stihl thing...

justme23005 · Apr 17, 2014

Bluegill2 said:
Must be a Stihl thing...

LOL you beat me to it..

I run a fleet of Echo & Husqvarna saws, and I've never loosened up the chain when I'm finished cutting.

2458n · Apr 17, 2014

I imagine it would depend on the lenght of chain. By the end of day running a 42 inch chain ,I have tightened it up at least once. This is with the oil set on max. I can see it being being a problem. Look at how many bars you see blued up before their time. Releasing does not hurt anything. I agree that it is seldom done because when your done you are usually ready to quit.

yomax4 · Apr 20, 2014

After a little research and discussion with a large husky dealer, I was told that it was said for years by the factories to release tension on the plastic case saws. He said there were not many cases of failures but the engineers put it in the manuals of several brands as a fail safe. He said the metal case saw did not have the same verbiage.. So, Plastic case saws could or should be released, Metal case saws, not so much..

Coyote machine · Apr 20, 2014

Coyote machine said:
It may not be as much of an issue with the old saws, but since everything made today is out of chocolate, the newer saws are probably more prone to turning into a pretzel. I'm just reporting what the manufacturer states as SOP.:confused3:

Chocolate=plastic.

Bluegill2 said:
Must be a Stihl thing...

Sorry, wrong, it's a all saw brands thing.

justme23005 said:
LOL you beat me to it..

I run a fleet of Echo & Husqvarna saws, and I've never loosened up the chain when I'm finished cutting.

Fleet? Time to read the manual.

2458n said:
I imagine it would depend on the lenght of chain. By the end of day running a 42 inch chain ,I have tightened it up at least once. This is with the oil set on max. I can see it being being a problem. Look at how many bars you see blued up before their time. Releasing does not hurt anything. I agree that it is seldom done because when your done you are usually ready to quit.

Makes sense, tired at end of workday.

yomax4 said:
After a little research and discussion with a large husky dealer, I was told that it was said for years by the factories to release tension on the plastic case saws. He said there were not many cases of failures but the engineers put it in the manuals of several brands as a fail safe. He said the metal case saw did not have the same verbiage.. So, Plastic case saws could or should be released, Metal case saws, not so much..

Yeah, vindicated!

YMMV.:confused3:

Bluegill2 · Apr 20, 2014

yomax4 said:
After a little research and discussion with a large husky dealer, I was told that it was said for years by the factories to release tension on the plastic case saws. He said there were not many cases of failures but the engineers put it in the manuals of several brands as a fail safe. He said the metal case saw did not have the same verbiage.. So, Plastic case saws could or should be released, Metal case saws, not so much..

Makes sense. I don't have any 'plastic case' saws & probably never will!!!

Coyote machine · Apr 20, 2014

Bluegill2 said:
Makes sense. I don't have any 'plastic case' saws & probably never will!!!

The highest end cars are made of carbon fiber, which is way lighter AND way stronger than steel or aluminum.
Never is a long time, and manufacturers of saws, just like everything else today will make products out of what works best for them and the market they serve. Stihl will continue to lead, and Husky and others will follow in their footprints, albeit lighter stronger ones, of many different materials.