Using a Grooming Mower with Quick Hitch

[bcp]

I would investigate position control or limit chains to see if that would keep the quick hitch in an intermediate position, to not hit the shaft, and to mow without frequent adjustment.

Bruce

 

[leonz]

You need to reposition the two drag links on the mower to the upper holes to keep the lower links higher and more forward and as a result prevent the PTO drive shaft from contacting the quick hitch.

 

[California]

You need to reposition the two drag links on the mower to the upper holes to keep the lower links higher and more forward and as a result prevent the PTO drive shaft from contacting the quick hitch.

Agree, the present geometry is the problem and that is the best solution.

After that, an even more flexible top link on the mower might be needed. So the back of the mower can lift enough to not raise the tractor's rear tires off the ground at a slope change like in the photo.

I run a simpler connection at the top of my rotary mower: top of the quick hitch adjusted far forward and a chain, not a solid link, back to the mower. The chain is sized to just lift the mower enough for tight U-turns, and to allow a substantial gap the rest of the time. This is needed because there are major slope changes (like that photo) between the terraced rows in my orchard, that I need to climb and descend.

Edit - added a photo showing the chain 'upper link'.

 

[THCjr]

You need to reposition the two drag links on the mower to the upper holes to keep the lower links higher and more forward and as a result prevent the PTO drive shaft from contacting the quick hitch.

Thank you for the response. I will try moving the linkage to the upper two holes. I purchased the mower prior to obtaining a QH. After getting the QH I had to purchase an adaptor kit so that the QH would fit the mower. I installed per the instructions. What you see in the pic with the upper holes empty is because I tried reversing some of the components to see if that might help. It did not, only made it worse. ( I thought perhaps I had misinterpreted the installation instructions when I bought the adaptor last year.) The upper holes had a bolt in them per mfg. I just did not reinstall them the other day prior to me posting my dilemma here. After I move the links up to the top hole I will have to 1. see if it works and 2. see if the driveshaft is still long enough. I feel like I am getting to the maximum extension of my drive shaft from mower to tractor.

 

[THCjr]

Agree, the present geometry is the problem and that is the best solution.

After that, an even more flexible top link on the mower might be needed. So the back of the mower can lift enough to not raise the tractor's rear tires off the ground at a slope change like in the photo.

I run a simpler connection at the top of my rotary mower: top of the quick hitch adjusted far forward and a chain, not a solid link, back to the mower. The chain is sized to just lift the mower enough for tight U-turns, and to allow a substantial gap the rest of the time. This is needed because there are major slope changes (like that photo) between the terraced rows in my orchard, that I need to climb and descend.

Edit - added a photo showing the chain 'upper link'.

Thank you for your suggestion and the photo supplied. This just might be the answer. See my previous post about my concern for the drive shaft length. I have got to say that this TractorBYNet website and forums are terrific.

 

[WranglerX]

A side note, I found the check chains on QH to be if good use no matter what implement I have on QH, even ballast box....... ITs a cheap fix for maintain QH at desired height if you don't have good hydraulic control....