Using a Grooming Mower with Quick Hitch

[THCjr]

I have a Frontier GM2060 attached to my 1996 JD 955. Due to having multiple implements I purchased a Titan Quick Hitch. I had to purchase the JD/Frontier Quick Hitch adaptor for the GM2060. On level ground I lower the mower so there is clearance between the mower driveshaft and the Quick Hitch, it works fine. When I am mowing on a hill where the ground has humps and hollows, I have to keep moving my rocker lever to maintain the clearance between the driveshaft and Quick Hitch. If I am not paying close attention the Driveshaft and Quick Hitch rub against each other and I need to adjust before any damage is done. Any ideas on how to fix this problem. I am about ready to remove the Quick Hitch whenever I need to use the Grooming Mower. This is the attachment that I use most often so this will be a pain.

 

[leonz]

The only real option for you is to invest in adjustable lower links if
and only if they are available for your current machine OR simply
remove the quick hitch when you need to mow.

 

[workinonit]

I'm confused how your lift goes low enough for the PTO shaft to make contact with the top cross brace on the QH. I can lift my bush hog all the way up and still have a foot or more of clearance.

 

[THCjr]

I'm confused how your lift goes low enough for the PTO shaft to make contact with the top cross brace on the QH. I can lift my bush hog all the way up and still have a foot or more of clearance.

My QH works perfectly fine with my Frontier brush hog. I only have the problem with the grooming mower.

 

[THCjr]

My QH works perfectly fine with my Frontier brush hog. I only have the problem with the grooming mower.

I believe that I will go out and put them side by side to see if I can come up with a solution. The grooming mower has 4 wheels, one at each corner for the mower to follow the contours of the ground.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

From what little I can assume from your description, you are trying ti mow a steep bank, road ditch or the like ?? ??

With my old JD855 I could do that with the 60" MMM, but not with any kind of 3pt attachment.. Just too steep an angle involved..

You may be able to find a MMM deck for your older JD955.. The problem will likely be finding the correct mounting hardware and drive line.. Good Luck..

 

[bcp]

Is this what your setup looks like?

 

[workinonit]

Probably close to what he has. That clearance is pretty close sitting flat.

 

[THCjr]

Yes on flat ground that is what it looks like. If you can picture in your mind that if I was mowing on a slope of say 10 percent and the slope then leveled off to 0 percent there would be less space between the driveshaft and cross bar of the quick hitch. While I am on the slope of 10 percent there is no problem. The problem comes when I have to make the transition.

 

[THCjr]

First pic shows tractor on fairly level ground and mower on a slope. Note position of lower mower arms to QH pins and distance between drive shaft and QH cross bar. Second pic shows tractor on fairly level ground and mower on slope after adjusting rocker lever to make sure driveshaft and QH cross bar do not make contact with each other. Not the position of the lower mower arms to the QH pins.

 

[bcp]

I would investigate position control or limit chains to see if that would keep the quick hitch in an intermediate position, to not hit the shaft, and to mow without frequent adjustment.

Bruce

 

[leonz]

You need to reposition the two drag links on the mower to the upper holes to keep the lower links higher and more forward and as a result prevent the PTO drive shaft from contacting the quick hitch.

 

[California]

You need to reposition the two drag links on the mower to the upper holes to keep the lower links higher and more forward and as a result prevent the PTO drive shaft from contacting the quick hitch.

Agree, the present geometry is the problem and that is the best solution.

After that, an even more flexible top link on the mower might be needed. So the back of the mower can lift enough to not raise the tractor's rear tires off the ground at a slope change like in the photo.

I run a simpler connection at the top of my rotary mower: top of the quick hitch adjusted far forward and a chain, not a solid link, back to the mower. The chain is sized to just lift the mower enough for tight U-turns, and to allow a substantial gap the rest of the time. This is needed because there are major slope changes (like that photo) between the terraced rows in my orchard, that I need to climb and descend.

Edit - added a photo showing the chain 'upper link'.

 

[THCjr]

You need to reposition the two drag links on the mower to the upper holes to keep the lower links higher and more forward and as a result prevent the PTO drive shaft from contacting the quick hitch.

Thank you for the response. I will try moving the linkage to the upper two holes. I purchased the mower prior to obtaining a QH. After getting the QH I had to purchase an adaptor kit so that the QH would fit the mower. I installed per the instructions. What you see in the pic with the upper holes empty is because I tried reversing some of the components to see if that might help. It did not, only made it worse. ( I thought perhaps I had misinterpreted the installation instructions when I bought the adaptor last year.) The upper holes had a bolt in them per mfg. I just did not reinstall them the other day prior to me posting my dilemma here. After I move the links up to the top hole I will have to 1. see if it works and 2. see if the driveshaft is still long enough. I feel like I am getting to the maximum extension of my drive shaft from mower to tractor.

 

[THCjr]

Agree, the present geometry is the problem and that is the best solution.

After that, an even more flexible top link on the mower might be needed. So the back of the mower can lift enough to not raise the tractor's rear tires off the ground at a slope change like in the photo.

I run a simpler connection at the top of my rotary mower: top of the quick hitch adjusted far forward and a chain, not a solid link, back to the mower. The chain is sized to just lift the mower enough for tight U-turns, and to allow a substantial gap the rest of the time. This is needed because there are major slope changes (like that photo) between the terraced rows in my orchard, that I need to climb and descend.

Edit - added a photo showing the chain 'upper link'.

Thank you for your suggestion and the photo supplied. This just might be the answer. See my previous post about my concern for the drive shaft length. I have got to say that this TractorBYNet website and forums are terrific.

 

[WranglerX]

A side note, I found the check chains on QH to be if good use no matter what implement I have on QH, even ballast box....... ITs a cheap fix for maintain QH at desired height if you don't have good hydraulic control....