URGENT help needed....

[DCarter]

I do not have KTAC and I'm not sure if the original owner bought it or not. I see 1100 on the paperwork for 2 yr extended warranty, and I think I'll be able to transfer that to me, but not sure about KTAC. There's a 250 deductable anyway, and I can get an aftermarket radiator for that price or get a shop to fix the current radiator. Should be an easy install after getting the loader, hood and front guard off.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

I don稚 know of any. Why you壇 want to shut down an engine before it melts seems pretty self explanatory. A low oil shutoff seems more important.

Not really if you have not lost coolant you want to shed the load and maintain an idle speed to circulate coolant and maintain airflow over radiator. If you loose coolant then a coolant temp sensor will not be able to sense over temp and you will need to either get block temp or oil temp.

But having a sudden stop of the engine without warning will cause more problems and dangerous conditions then good ever, a buzzer or other alarm is what is needed.

David

 

[TMGT]

I drive a mack rd600dump truck that shuts off if the temp gets to high on the highway at 65:confused3:

Engine or exhaust? If it's new enough to have emissions there are some criteria for shutdown from exhaust over temp.

 

[Erik M]

Enjoy learning to maintain your machine, reminds me of a few weeks ago when I was finishing up blowing snow and a hose clamp on the transmission oil cooler let go. Didn’t know what had happened except that it was a massive leak. Thankfully it was a $2 hose clamp that failed, but couldn’t see it until the cowling was removed. What an awful mess it made though, of course the whole front of the machine got a nice anticorrosion spray as the leak was right in front of the fan. I will pressure it wash it all in the spring.

 

[square1]

Enjoy learning to maintain your machine...

^^^ This^^^
As my neighbor is somewhatoverly fond of saying whenever he catches me repairing something, "It's just one of the privileges of owning [insert name of item being worked on here]"!

 

[DCarter]

Got the tractor loaded no problem. I used the old ugly B7100 to pull it to the street, then put the trailer in front of it and ran it about 15-20 seconds driving it up on the trailer.

 

[JWR]

If the motor is cool when started and assuming it will only be a minute or two at lower rpms it should be fine from a thermal standpoint. Running a water pump when it is dry is another issue with bearing/seals. Then again it sounded like your belt was distroid in the process. Perhaps cut it off or disconnect it.

Sorry to hear about your misfortunes.

Agree. You will never harm an internal combustion engine by running it 1 minute without coolant. Especially since the fanbelt/water pump belt is gone you do not have to worry about water pump issues which are far fetched in the first place. If you can drive it up on your trailer in under a minute or roughly so (which surely you can) then just do it. Not a problem.

BY THE WAY being brand new like that, if there is any worry at all, invest in having your dealer pick it up and let them worry over coolant issues. Depending on the level of honesty and common sense of your dealer, it may be worth the insurance of having them pick it up anyway (such that they cannot claim you furthered the damage.)

 

[4570Man]

I don’t think spearing the radiator is a warranty problem. What difference does it make what the dealer claims? And there’s no chance I’d change a radiator in the cold. If the weather was nice it might be less work to move it than just changing it.

 

[motownbrowne]

Might be a good time to add a skid plate underneath and some expanded metal to the brush guard. Tractors aren't really meant to be used as bulldozers or skid steers. You can get away with stuff, but you gotta be pretty careful. Driving over brush is never ideal, and as was mentioned above, if you do it, don't change directions.

That said, good luck with the repair, and use some good coolant like Fleetguard once you get it back together.

 

[JWR]

I don稚 think spearing the radiator is a warranty problem. What difference does it make what the dealer claims? ...

All this is moot since he has already run and moved the tractor to the trailer. To your comment: I never suggested that spearing the radiator was a warranty issue or related to it. What I said, and do say, is that if you run the tractor without coolant for 1 minute there are dealers and manufacturers out there who will make an unjustified federal case out of that and use it as an excuse not to cover OTHER issues that might crop up in the future. It makes a big difference what the dealer claims if that happens. It is in that context that I used the words Honesty and Common Sense.

 

[jimmyhouser]

Cranking and running a cool engine without coolant shouldn't hurt it for 30 seconds. If you financed the tractor, just make an insurance claim. A $500 deductible and let's the dealership do the rest.

 

[DCarter]

I paid cash for the tractor from a doctor who didn't seem to want or need it. His wife's name was on the paperwork so maybe a gift when they bought their 18 acre estate? Anyway, it only has 15 hours on it and is, or was, like new. There's some standard warranty left that I can transfer to me, and an extended 2 yr warranty I'm still trying to find out about, but should also be able to transfer to me for a fee.

The fan belt is still on.

It's not cold in Texas!

Replacing a radiator is pretty simple, and there's a 3 part video on YT if I need help. So far I've located a new Kubota for $475 and a reconditioned for $350 exchange. I'll probably go with new.

I talked to a radiator shop and they said the plastic tanks are not available for them to fix it.

Agree, it's time for some custom shields underneath.

I'll remove the loader and brush hog this evening and get it into the garage for the job to begin.

 

[LouNY]

Please tell what tractor or vehicle kills the engine in a non stationary application when there is high temp?? And why you want to shut the engine down and why would you cut off cooling to the engine.

David

All of the IH Magnums do, also the IH Pumas, so I expect that quite a few of the modern ones do, I can't say new because the 7110 is from the 80s

 

[teg]

...Agree, it's time for some custom shields underneath...

If you do this, you could start a business... it's been "talked" about a few times but no one has built anything (and posted about it!) At least that I know of... :confused3:

 

[Phillip w]

If you do this, you could start a business... it's been "talked" about a few times but no one has built anything (and posted about it!) At least that I know of... :confused3:

I think thereis a company in ohio that makes light weight uhmw shields for atv. Maybe the got something for tractors.

 

[JWR]

I think thereis a company in ohio that makes light weight uhmw shields for atv. Maybe the got something for tractors.

PhillipW has a good idea there if you can locate a company making such things (or even an individual who has made several.) However, I have mixed feelings about guards and shields underneath that sort of tractor. There is so much vulnerable under there (front wheel drive mechanisms, oil lines, who knows what else) besides the radiator and what you had happen.

While telling sea stories (as we all tend to do) I ran over some pretty rough ground and thick brush, bush hogging to clean up an old farm a few years ago. My 4-in-1 bucket is attached via skid steer plate interface to the front of the loader. The 2 or 3" stubs of dense and partly cut brush came up through the space between the quick attach plates and the front of the tractor -- In just the right place to shove the attachment lever loose on the quick-attach adapter. It half way dislodged the bucket (which weighs 1000lb by itself) from the loader. A bit of a mess. At the time I wanted to run right out and drill holes for keeper pins in the attach levers.

Round about way of saying I'm not so sure that a guard or shield under a compact tractor doing brush work makes sense. As sure as you get a nice protective shield in place the sapling will come thru someplace else or right beside it and and cause different troubles. On top of that, you'd have the shield as a fresh extra nuisance when you try to work on the machine. I think by far your best shield and protection is the operator ! Just watch more carefully what you are getting into, possibly a little slower, and you'll out perform the most complete shields made.

 

[Phillip w]

Two companies that may be able to help you out is xpanded and bro tek. You shouldbe able to find them using google and typing in "tractor skid plates"

 

[teg]

Two companies that may be able to help you out is Bxpanded and bro-tek. You should be able to find them using google and typing in "tractor skid plates"

They both do the "BX" and "B" models but no one (that I know of) does it for the Standard L's...

 

[CobyRupert]

So....
Do you have to start the tractor to remove the loader?

OP is good, but more food for thought:

1) Don't drag racers and multi-engine pulling "tractors" often run dry blocks? Massive horsepower and rpms for 300 feet or 1/4 mile plus. (2+ minutes total run time?)
2) What is standard operating temp on a tractor, compared to the temperature thermostat opens at? If knowing how long it takes engine to get to normal temp, doesn't this give you an idea on how long engine runs without even opening the thermostat (basically the same situation if you clamp the hose)?

 

[DCarter]

Last night I started the tractor and quickly unloaded and parked it a few feet away where I wanted the loader, raising the loader before shutting it down. Got the loader all disconnected, lowered it onto it's feet, then started the tractor for a few seconds to lift it free of it's connections. Started it again and turned it around, then shut it down and removed the brush hog. Started it one more time and drove it into the garage. Each run was less than 30 seconds and the engine block wasn't even warm to the touch when I was done.

I removed the front guard, and hood and now have easy access.

When re-reading an older thread on this issue, I noticed a link I had missed before showing a new Kubota radiator for $430 from a dealership in Penn, so I ordered it and got confirmation that it's available and will be shipped in a few days. Not sure why their prices is 100 less than other dealers.

I found a 3 part video on YT showing radiator removal and repair with epoxy. It wasn't exactly the same issue but similar. It was long and boring, but it's going to save me a lot of time knowing how to get the radiator out.

Meanwhile, I'll have some time to add work lights to the canopy (those cheap 18w LED work lights on Ebay are awesome), make a box to hold a bigger tool box on the ROP, and maybe a chainsaw holder as well.

On the shields, it looks like there isn't much front tire clearance when turning to allow a shield to be added.