URGENT help needed....

[DCarter]

I bought a 2016 L2501 yesterday and hauled it straight to my property and started putting it to work. A few minutes ago, I was taking out some large youpons and I pushed them over and couldn't get them completely out of the ground. I started driving over them and when I backed up a bit, a 2" trunk came from below and pushed the lower radiator hose into the fan. I heard loud squeeling and saw smoke from the belt slipping on the fan pulley and shut it down. It actually broke the lower raditor hose attachment point on the radiator which is plastic so I lost all my coolant. Looks like I'll need a new radiator. I love this tractor and can't believe I broke it on the first day.

The question is, if I let it cool down completely, can I run it for a minute or two to get it on my trailer?

 

[mikester]

How much does a new engine cost vs cost of replacing the radiator and hoses in the field?

 

[4570Man]

I’d guess you’ll be fine if you’re only trying to drive it up trailer ramps. I changed a water pump on a suburban and I forgot to to put the lower radiator hose clamp back on. I probably drove it 500 yards after it blew off.

 

[jdzaya]

If it was mine, I wouldn't start it without coolant in the engine.

 

[ArtMech]

mikester is correct.
Use a winch to load your tractor on a trailer.

 

[/pine]

I'm surprised that new of a machine does not have a high temp. safety cut off switch...?

 

[moship]

If the motor is cool when started and assuming it will only be a minute or two at lower rpms it should be fine from a thermal standpoint. Running a water pump when it is dry is another issue with bearing/seals. Then again it sounded like your belt was distroid in the process. Perhaps cut it off or disconnect it.

Sorry to hear about your misfortunes.

 

[zzvyb6]

New radiator $539.00 free shipping on ebay. New hose and belt + clamps extra. Or get a radiator shop to fix the damaged one.

It will run just fine for a few minutes at a time. If you are scared to try it. Clamp off the hose, add some water/mix and start it without the water pump turning (no belt, remember?).

You might want to look underneath to see what else is bent, broken or dented (wires, mounts, oil line, battery case). You need to power wash the engine compartment to get the antifreeze plume off of everything (air cleaners, battery, sound insulation. Otherwise dirt and dust will collect an form a mud coating on everything under the hood.

 

[Sammy3700]

Hope I do not get in trouble for this but look on orange tractor and search lower radiator hose. Someone did the same thing on a L3800 not long ago. He was able to fix his. As others stated remove the belt get trailer as close as possible and you can run it long enough to load it.

 

[Thomas]

Cool engine just enough get on trail etc. should be fine..make sure fan free to turn.

 

[timswi]

Cool engine just enough get on trail etc. should be fine..make sure fan free to turn.

Yup, depending on how far the trailer is--50' or so, should be no big deal.

 

[TMGT]

I'm surprised that new of a machine does not have a high temp. safety cut off switch...?

Even if it did there's no water in the system anyways so wouldn't do much good.

As for running it, you'll be fine for a min or two at lower engine speed, especially if the outside temp is pretty cold.
Just ge the trailer as close as possible an have it ready to load and shut off.

Do you have KTAC? Might cover the repair.

 

[ovrszd]

Yep, cool it, crank it and load it. No worries.

Sorry for your misfortune. Working in ground brush is the most likely place for disaster. Learn from your mistake.

 

[/pine]

Even if it did there's no water in the system anyways so wouldn't do much good....

They seem to work good on air cooled diesels...!

 

[TMGT]

They seem to work good on air cooled diesels...!

They do, but on a water cooled it would be required to mount through the water jacket and into the parent material of the head/block. Also the design of a water cooled engine doesn't lend itself to even thermal transfer without water (i.e. hot spots) so it's hard to get a good reading when dry.
I have one on the Onan in my Wheel Horse and it seems to work well, but that's also it's only source of temp monitoring.

I have seen some generators that use a low water sensor in addition to the temp sensor where instances of coolant could shut them down or activate an alarm.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

I'm surprised that new of a machine does not have a high temp. safety cut off switch...?

Please tell what tractor or vehicle kills the engine in a non stationary application when there is high temp?? And why you want to shut the engine down and why would you cut off cooling to the engine.

David

 

[Peter 315]

Please tell what tractor or vehicle kills the engine in a non stationary application when there is high temp?? And why you want to shut the engine down and why would you cut off cooling to the engine.

David

I drive a mack rd600dump truck that shuts off if the temp gets to high on the highway at 65:confused3:

 

[4570Man]

Please tell what tractor or vehicle kills the engine in a non stationary application when there is high temp?? And why you want to shut the engine down and why would you cut off cooling to the engine.

David

I don’t know of any. Why you’d want to shut down an engine before it melts seems pretty self explanatory. A low oil shutoff seems more important.

 

[DCarter]

Thanks for all the input. I do have a come-along with me as well as a smaller B7100 Kubota to pull the bigger one around if needed. I'll see what I can do without starting it, but I tend to agree that running it from cold, as in tomorrow morning, for minute or two probably wouldn't hurt it. It's just that it's so new, I don't want to chance anything and wanted to post here in case there's something drastically different about diesels since my experience is mostly with gas engines.

The belt is still on but did spin on the fan pulley for a few seconds before I could get it shut down. I'll definitely replace it and it sounds like I just go ahead and cut it off.

I will check out the other thread on the 3800. Can't believe there's no protection plates under there.

I don't think it ran long enough to overheat and trigger any shutdown mechanisms if there is one. I had it shut down literally 3 or 4 seconds after it happened.

I was also wondering if a radiator shop could fix it but not sure they would be able to get the right end cap with the hose fitting. Worth asking around.

Guess I get to learn about loader removal for the repair. Should be fun.

This mishap was a real let down from the high of finding a 15 hour used tractor with loader, extended warranty, 5' brushhog, fancy $1000 dual blade road grader(never used), and hay forks(never used) for 15,750! Nothing like breaking it on the first day.

 

[TMGT]

I learned early on with equipment to try not to drive over brush/trees etc unless I can help it, and never back up if you do.
I had the hyd. suction line at the pump knocked off my B, no idea how and it's not exactly exposed.

Since you bought it used I guess you don't have KTAC.