Upgrading tractor for dragging horseback riding arenas

[billybonds]

I am in the market to upgrade my tractor. The primary function will be to drag the 3 riding arenas at our boarding stable. What I THINK i need is based on the shortcomings of what I already have. I own a 35 HP hydrostatic which I purchased and a 40hp gear tractor which I inheritted. Pulling the same 6.5' TR3 drag, the hydrostatic cant even think about high range, sometimes struggles in mid rang depending on how much dirt/sand it engages with, and low range is just so slow I could shoot myself. The gear tractor pulls it just fine. So in my head, gear tractor > hydro

Another complication is who might operate it. I have 2 employees, a wife, and 2 small children who may operate it in the future. My wife and employees cant drive a golf cart around the property without crashing, so there is no way I will ever let them operate a gear tractor. If I get a gear machine, I will be the sole operator for many years to come, and I will need to keep the hydro tractor for them to use. If I go with a hydro tractor, i may let other operate it after to new toy excitement wears off, and I can sell the hydro tractor to recoup some of the investment. So in my head, hydro > gear

When I first bought my farm, an older friend told me when purchasing a tractor, go bigger than you think you need, and get the cab.....I didnt listen. I dont intend to make that mistake again. I plan to go as big as a can while staying in the compact/small utility size frame so I can still get in and out of my indoor riding areans. Hydro tractors seem to top out around 60hp. Frustratingly, dealers seem only to be capable of pushing whatever they have in stock on you as opposed to providing confident answers on what exactly would be best for my purposes.

So my main question is, will I be disappointed in the dragging power/speed of a 50-60hp hydrostatic like I am the 35?

What is the best tire for sand, snow, turf?

I think I only have New Holland, Kubota, Massey and Deere on Long Island, so I'm open to specific recommendations from those makes.

 

[nybirdman]

High range in a HYDRO is only for road travel not work.I have a cabbed 44 HP Kubota hydro that would easily do that work.
I pull a two bottom plow,six ft.box blade,rear blade (7') and push an 8ft.snow plow.
Grand L's have two speeds between ranges,I.E. medium low-high;this is where I do 90% of my work.

 

[billybonds]

High range in a HYDRO is only for road travel not work.I have a cabbed 44 HP Kubota hydro that would easily do that work.
I pull a two bottom plow,six ft.box blade,rear blade (7') and push an 8ft.snow plow.
Grand L's have two speeds between ranges,I.E. medium low-high;this is where I do 90% of my work.

Can you elaborate on this? I read about this, but when i asked my dealer, he didnt have a clue. L6060 is on my short list and I read that besides the normal 3 ranges of your standard hydrostatic trany, there is an additional "gear" in there. The only thing I didnt like is it doesnt seem to come standard with rear remotes, and I need minimum 2 rears, and prefer a 3rd function up front.

 

[jeff9366]

What I THINK i need is based on the shortcomings of what I already have. I own a 35 HP hydrostatic which I purchased and a 40hp gear tractor which I inheritted. Pulling the same 6.5' TR3 drag, the hydrostatic cant even think about high range, sometimes struggles in mid rang depending on how much dirt/sand it engages with, and low range is just so slow I could shoot myself. The gear tractor pulls it just fine.

1) You should be considering tractor weight as your first metric.
Not horespower, not transmission type.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single (1) specification.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

2) For any ground engagement work an HST tractor would use MED or LOW range, never HIGH range.

3) HST transmissions are designed for torque, not high speed.


Any 3,700+ pound bare weight, 4-WD, open staton tractor with 40 horsepower or more will fill your needs for dragging arenas in medium range.

If any addition you wish to use a 72" rotary cutter or a snow blower you will need at least 50 horsepower.

If you opt for a cab increase horsepower by 5-horsepowerr to allow for 700 pound cab weight plus power to operate air conditioning.

A 4-WD, cabbed, L6060 HST+ with 60 horsepower should be more than ample for your stated needs. The HST+ gives you a half-range step between LOW range, MEDIUM range and HIGH range.

Do not 'load' the rear tires. Most of the cab weight bears on the rear tires.

Rake - ABI TR3 Rake - Multipurpose Implement - REVIEW (Version 1)

ABI TR3 Rake - Multipurpose Implement - REVIEW 1.0 I received this previously owned ABI TR3~6.5~Command~Rake December 18, 2017. Photo #1. TR3 "Command Series" is ABI's commercial model TR3 rake, with six hydraulically operated scarifiers plus tooth sections fixed on the leveling bar. While...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[jeff9366]

New Holland Workmaster 35​

2013 - 2015 Workmaster Series Compact Utility tractor

Dimensions
Weight:	2900 lbs 1315 kg

 

[jeff9366]

What is the best tire for sand, snow, turf?

sand = R1/ag tires for traction, but may rut damp ground.
sand = R14 tires for slightly less traction, slightly less rutting potential.

snow = turf tires with snow chains.

turf = turf tires, or air inflated R4/industrial tires.

Puncture resistance and Loader support = R4/industrial tires.

90% of new compact tractors are sold with R4/industrial tires.


For what you have stated as your applications consider bulbous, low pressure, somewhat expensive radial tractor tires, an option on Grand L's.

 

[jeff9366]

L6060 is on my short list and I read that besides the normal 3 ranges of your standard hydrostatic trany, there is an additional "gear" in there.

 

[4570Man]

1) You should be considering tractor weight as your first metric.
Not horespower, not transmission type.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single (1) specification.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

2) For any ground engagement work an HST tractor would use MED or LOW range, never HIGH range.

3) HST transmissions are designed for torque, not high speed.


Any 3,700+ pound bare weight, 4-WD, open staton tractor with 40 horsepower or more will fill your needs for dragging arenas in medium range.

If any addition you wish to use a 72" rotary cutter or a snow blower you will need at least 50 horsepower.

If you opt for a cab increase horsepower by 5-horsepowerr to allow for 700 pound cab weight plus power to operate air conditioning.

A 4-WD, cabbed, L6060 HST+ with 60 horsepower should meet your needs. The HST+ gives you a half-range step between LOW range, MEDIUM range and HIGH range. Do not 'load' the rear tires. Most of the cab weight bears on the rear tires.

Rake - ABI TR3 Rake - Multipurpose Implement - REVIEW (Version 1)

ABI TR3 Rake - Multipurpose Implement - REVIEW 1.0 I received this previously owned ABI TR3~6.5~Command~Rake December 18, 2017. Photo #1. TR3 "Command Series" is ABI's commercial model TR3 rake, with six hydraulically operated scarifiers plus tooth sections fixed on the leveling bar. While...

www.tractorbynet.com

I would generally agree that you’re right that weight is important but not so much in this case. Even his smaller tractor isn’t running out of traction. It easily does the job in low range. It’s just too slow. Hp is what he needs to go faster.

 

[4570Man]

Can you elaborate on this? I read about this, but when i asked my dealer, he didnt have a clue. L6060 is on my short list and I read that besides the normal 3 ranges of your standard hydrostatic trany, there is an additional "gear" in there. The only thing I didnt like is it doesnt seem to come standard with rear remotes, and I need minimum 2 rears, and prefer a 3rd function up front.

The Kubota grand tractor is a far better machine on all accounts than the economy version. The HST+ is the most drastic difference. It has a lever shifter on the dash that gives you a high/low of each gear which basically gives you a 6 speed transmission. The splitter is able to shift while the tractor is moving. You can typically operate in medium range and flip to the low side for a little more power and effortlessly flip back to the high side for more travel speed. You can split the other gears as well but it’s the most useful splitting the middle range. The HST+ is also a quite transmission. It doesn’t whine like the other HST does. The grand series also offers a better 3 point hitch and a more comfortable seat. The dash has more options which that didn’t mean as much to me as the already mentioned features did. The Grand PTO also clutches itself which isn’t a big deal but it might help with the untrained operators.

 

[jeff9366]

I would generally agree that you’re right that weight is important but not so much in this case. Even his smaller tractor isn’t running out of traction. It easily does the job in low range. It’s just too slow. Hp is what he needs to go faster.

My 35-horsepower, 3,700 pound bare weight Kubota L3560 pulls my TR3 rake fine in HST medium range.

OP's New Holland HST transmission may need service.

OP's TR3 rake my be wider than my TR3 rake.

 

[m1garand762]

Think of the ranges of the hydrostat as follows
L loader
M mower
H highway

 

[NoTrespassing]

TR3e Equine - ABI Attachments

TR3e Equine - ABI Attachments is the manufacturer of innovative tractor, ATV/UTV, skid steer & truck attachments.

www.abiattachments.com

 

[jeff9366]

I plan to go as big as a can while staying in the compact/small utility size frame so I can still get in and out of my indoor riding areans.

The L6060 engine is turbocharged. You will have to consider carbon monoxide accumulation as your tractor operates indoors. Carbon monoxide is odorless and tasteless.

Determine the height of a cabbed L6060, to be sure it will pass through your arena entry door.

 

[4570Man]

The L6060 engine is turbocharged. You will have to consider carbon monoxide accumulation as your tractor operates indoors. Carbon monoxide is odorless and tasteless.

Determine the height of a cabbed L6060, to be sure it will pass through your arena entry door.

What difference does a turbo make for carbon monoxide?

 

[Jchonline]

I am in the market to upgrade my tractor. The primary function will be to drag the 3 riding arenas at our boarding stable. What I THINK i need is based on the shortcomings of what I already have. I own a 35 HP hydrostatic which I purchased and a 40hp gear tractor which I inheritted. Pulling the same 6.5' TR3 drag, the hydrostatic cant even think about high range, sometimes struggles in mid rang depending on how much dirt/sand it engages with, and low range is just so slow I could shoot myself. The gear tractor pulls it just fine. So in my head, gear tractor > hydro

Another complication is who might operate it. I have 2 employees, a wife, and 2 small children who may operate it in the future. My wife and employees cant drive a golf cart around the property without crashing, so there is no way I will ever let them operate a gear tractor. If I get a gear machine, I will be the sole operator for many years to come, and I will need to keep the hydro tractor for them to use. If I go with a hydro tractor, i may let other operate it after to new toy excitement wears off, and I can sell the hydro tractor to recoup some of the investment. So in my head, hydro > gear

When I first bought my farm, an older friend told me when purchasing a tractor, go bigger than you think you need, and get the cab.....I didnt listen. I dont intend to make that mistake again. I plan to go as big as a can while staying in the compact/small utility size frame so I can still get in and out of my indoor riding areans. Hydro tractors seem to top out around 60hp. Frustratingly, dealers seem only to be capable of pushing whatever they have in stock on you as opposed to providing confident answers on what exactly would be best for my purposes.

So my main question is, will I be disappointed in the dragging power/speed of a 50-60hp hydrostatic like I am the 35?

What is the best tire for sand, snow, turf?

I think I only have New Holland, Kubota, Massey and Deere on Long Island, so I'm open to specific recommendations from those makes.

I dont see the issue. Just let your 2 employees and family use te 35HP in LOW so they dont run into anything or crash it....win win. You can sit inside and drink beer.

 

[Jchonline]

Ok a few serious thoughts.

1. Are you at least at full PTO RPM when running in medium?
2. Gear is always going to beat HST for power to the ground. For field work, give me gear everytime. For everything else, HST. Remember on HST, less pedal pressure = higher torque.
3. For ground engagement, weight makes a huge difference. You might even be able to get a 35 HP machine that weights 1500lbs more and it will drag just fine. A For example, Kubota L2501 will do alot more work than a B2601 .

With your current machine does the engine bog down, or do the wheels spin?

 

[aesanders]

Do yourself a favor and check out a Massey 2860M. Don’t test the power shuttle version, or you will buy it and have to keep the current hydro. The hydro version is pretty sweet also, but love that power shuttle.

 

[Texasmark]

I am in the market to upgrade my tractor. The primary function will be to drag the 3 riding arenas at our boarding stable. What I THINK i need is based on the shortcomings of what I already have. I own a 35 HP hydrostatic which I purchased and a 40hp gear tractor which I inheritted. Pulling the same 6.5' TR3 drag, the hydrostatic cant even think about high range, sometimes struggles in mid rang depending on how much dirt/sand it engages with, and low range is just so slow I could shoot myself. The gear tractor pulls it just fine. So in my head, gear tractor > hydro

Another complication is who might operate it. I have 2 employees, a wife, and 2 small children who may operate it in the future. My wife and employees cant drive a golf cart around the property without crashing, so there is no way I will ever let them operate a gear tractor. If I get a gear machine, I will be the sole operator for many years to come, and I will need to keep the hydro tractor for them to use. If I go with a hydro tractor, i may let other operate it after to new toy excitement wears off, and I can sell the hydro tractor to recoup some of the investment. So in my head, hydro > gear

When I first bought my farm, an older friend told me when purchasing a tractor, go bigger than you think you need, and get the cab.....I didnt listen. I dont intend to make that mistake again. I plan to go as big as a can while staying in the compact/small utility size frame so I can still get in and out of my indoor riding areans. Hydro tractors seem to top out around 60hp. Frustratingly, dealers seem only to be capable of pushing whatever they have in stock on you as opposed to providing confident answers on what exactly would be best for my purposes.

So my main question is, will I be disappointed in the dragging power/speed of a 50-60hp hydrostatic like I am the 35?

What is the best tire for sand, snow, turf?

I think I only have New Holland, Kubota, Massey and Deere on Long Island, so I'm open to specific recommendations from those makes.

An 8n would do the job if that's the only consideration. On tires check out dune buggies. Some are totally slick with one cross bar and the reason is that on a dune you can easily sink before you move forward....with lots of lugs.

I do a neighbor's arena with a little 25 hp 4wd LS with industrials....implement is a home made, 3 pt 8' arena drag consisting of several horizontal pipes with about 40 (8/pipe) staggered 6"x1/2" steel rods angled about 30* welded in place.

 

[5030]

Back when we had a stable and I worked 3 rings, all I used was a Fuerst Tine Harrow pull rake. Heck, you can pull it with a quad. I still use it to set my alfalfa seed in with.

 

[IH2424]

I am in the market to upgrade my tractor. The primary function will be to drag the 3 riding arenas at our boarding stable. What I THINK i need is based on the shortcomings of what I already have. I own a 35 HP hydrostatic which I purchased and a 40hp gear tractor which I inheritted. Pulling the same 6.5' TR3 drag, the hydrostatic cant even think about high range, sometimes struggles in mid rang depending on how much dirt/sand it engages with, and low range is just so slow I could shoot myself. The gear tractor pulls it just fine. So in my head, gear tractor > hydro

Another complication is who might operate it. I have 2 employees, a wife, and 2 small children who may operate it in the future. My wife and employees cant drive a golf cart around the property without crashing, so there is no way I will ever let them operate a gear tractor. If I get a gear machine, I will be the sole operator for many years to come, and I will need to keep the hydro tractor for them to use. If I go with a hydro tractor, i may let other operate it after to new toy excitement wears off, and I can sell the hydro tractor to recoup some of the investment. So in my head, hydro > gear

When I first bought my farm, an older friend told me when purchasing a tractor, go bigger than you think you need, and get the cab.....I didnt listen. I dont intend to make that mistake again. I plan to go as big as a can while staying in the compact/small utility size frame so I can still get in and out of my indoor riding areans. Hydro tractors seem to top out around 60hp. Frustratingly, dealers seem only to be capable of pushing whatever they have in stock on you as opposed to providing confident answers on what exactly would be best for my purposes.

So my main question is, will I be disappointed in the dragging power/speed of a 50-60hp hydrostatic like I am the 35?

What is the best tire for sand, snow, turf?

I think I only have New Holland, Kubota, Massey and Deere on Long Island, so I'm open to specific recommendations from those makes.

Agree with the tractor weight being important. Just talked to my neighbor - he is searching for wheel weights for his NH 37 Workmaster. He has loaded the rear tires and puts about 1000 lbs in his ballast box and he says it is still too light - the tractor is just too small for his needs. He has a pretty steep driveway and has trouble plowing it uphill, and even downhill at times. Your 35hp hydro probably has about 30 hp useable to the wheels, due to the hydro power requirements.