Update on my pole barn project

[texasranger556]

T111 will last a long time with a little attention to detail. The house we bought came with a 12x12' shed sided with painted T111. Judging by the trees that had grown up around it and Romex stamped 1998, about 20 years old. I had to replace the panels on one gable side and rebuild the doors 5 years ago when we moved in, they had rotted on the bottom where the water splashed up during the rain. No gutters or overhang, so worst of both worlds. The Z flashing is a good idea, the front of the shed is original and solid.

I'll second the suggestion to reinforce the joints with vertical 2x4s. Help to keep your panels from warping and pulling apart as they dry.

Another thing to consider, if your wedding venue idea really takes off you may want to build a bigger or more custom building down the track and repurpose this one as a shop or something. That would be one awesome shop! This a tractor forum after all

 

[rick1ryan]

Another thing to consider, if your wedding venue idea really takes off you may want to build a bigger or more custom building down the track and repurpose this one as a shop or something. That would be one awesome shop! This a tractor forum after all View attachment 616794

Yea, already thinking ahead. We have another 9 acres across the road and that's where I'd originally thought to build. I ended up changing plans though as this one is right in front of my parents' house (so they can keep an eye on it). The acreage across the road is a little more secluded so I'd be concerned with people hanging around. Thanks for the input on the cross-bracing. Wish I had time to get it done this trip but it's just not going to happen. I do potentially have a concrete guy who said he can get started this week. Should have the floor done in the next couple of weeks. I also found an architect who says he'll have my drawings done this week (for the Fire Marshal). That was another nice little un-expected surprise.

 

[EddieWalker]

...I'm wondering, do you think these panels will help in building stability? It's about 22 panels used on this one wall. I used 4" construction screws to anchor the studs to the poles then 2.5" screws to anchor the panels to the studs. I'd say there's about 18-20 screws in every panel...

Only using 3 purlins instead of 5 causes some concern in overall strength. Everything that I know is based on 2 foot spacing or less. To gain maximum strength of of the siding, nail spacing is also important. Or screws in your case. You did't gain anything by going with 4 inch screws. 2" would have given you the same results. Hardie makes a 1 5/8" screw that has a thicker shaft and bigger head that would have given you the most strength, but for something like this, I usually just use 2 3/8's nails in my framing gun. The biggest thing is that you nail into the stud, or purlin, ever foot in the middle portion of the plywood, and every six inches around the outside edges. So that would be 9 along the top and bottom purlin, and 5 in the middle one. Then along the edge you need 17 for each side, but since you don't have anything at your seams, that's not possible, and why I question the strength of your plywood. With 5 purlins, you should have 59 nails per sheet of plywood.

But since you are only hoping for 5 years, I think that you should be able to get that much out of it. T1-11 has been around for a very long time. It's not a product that I like because it requires painting all the time to stop it from rotting. It loves to rot!!!

 

[rick1ryan]

Here are a few more pics of my project. I installed cross-bracing (2X4) in the corners, and have done about half the T1-11 panels on the backside. On Monday, I had a crew pour concrete. 57 yards over the top of mesh and about 3 loads of gravel ($11k). Next up, I'm going to put up 2x4 studs on the ends to wall it in. I'm intending to tie to the 2x6 purlins on top and sink anchors into the concrete at the bottom. I'll then install T1-11 over the top of that. Any suggestions on the final walls are appreciated. BTW, the building contractor did a bang up job on getting everything straight and level.

 

[rick1ryan]

Wanted to give another update on the project. 40X90X10 pole barn that will be used for a wedding venue. I've finished closing in the front side/end with T1-11. Yea, I know I did the ends wrong with vertical studs but I'm closing the gaps with 1X4 on the outside. I've installed 2 double doors and have a 3rd single door yet to install. Laid down some acid stain on one corner of the floor and installed string lighting. Oh yea, I have my first booking, Feb 1st, 2020. I've got $30k in the pole barn and concrete floor. Have put another $8k into it and will have another $15k into the bathrooms (perk test has been completed, about to order septic install and water tap). I'm going to end up somewhere around $50k for the entire project. Thanks for everyone's input.

One more question. I originally thought about T1-11 on the interior walls but am considering instead to use thin (5mm) poplar plywood that will be whitewashed (white with wood grain showing thru). Do you think that thin plywood would work? I'm installing 10' drapery swags between every other set of poles (4 per side) to finish it out. Here are a couple of pics.

 

[forgeblast]

I wouldnt do T111 inside. What about knotty pine.

 

[rick1ryan]

I'm wanting a whitewashed wood inside. Not wanting a rustic, wood tone (too much orange in the pictures). Do you have a URL for what you're talking about?

 

[fried1765]

Only using 3 purlins instead of 5 causes some concern in overall strength. Everything that I know is based on 2 foot spacing or less. To gain maximum strength of of the siding, nail spacing is also important. Or screws in your case. You did't gain anything by going with 4 inch screws. 2" would have given you the same results. Hardie makes a 1 5/8" screw that has a thicker shaft and bigger head that would have given you the most strength, but for something like this, I usually just use 2 3/8's nails in my framing gun. The biggest thing is that you nail into the stud, or purlin, ever foot in the middle portion of the plywood, and every six inches around the outside edges. So that would be 9 along the top and bottom purlin, and 5 in the middle one. Then along the edge you need 17 for each side, but since you don't have anything at your seams, that's not possible, and why I question the strength of your plywood. With 5 purlins, you should have 59 nails per sheet of plywood.

But since you are only hoping for 5 years, I think that you should be able to get that much out of it. T1-11 has been around for a very long time. It's not a product that I like because it requires painting all the time to stop it from rotting. It loves to rot!!!

I have an originally stained, but unpainted, 40x50 T-111 clad building that is 30 years old.
Absolutely no sign of rot....anywhere!

 

[two_bit_score]

The problem with T1-11 is that people don't realize it has 6 sides when they are sealing it.

 

[wheelbuilder]

My house has a den the previous owner finished with T-111 to make it look rustic. It does, however it's a pain with dust and spiderwebs. I can't imagine how much grime would hang in it in a garage/barn. I'd go with something more smooth.

 

[rick1ryan]

My house has a den the previous owner finished with T-111 to make it look rustic. It does, however it's a pain with dust and spiderwebs. I can't imagine how much grime would hang in it in a garage/barn. I'd go with something more smooth.

How about something like this? It's pre-finished, 1/4" thick, MDF (and cheap). I'm thinking to finish out the interior walls with this stuff, then blow in insulation.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-White-MDF-Wall-Panel/1000349191

 

[rick1ryan]

BTW, here's something else I'm considering. It might be too busy but I'm thinking to have a lot of drapery work that will help the flow.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/32-sq-f...hevron-Whistler-Paneling-PANCH-I48W/307991142

 

[two_bit_score]

How about something like this? It's pre-finished, 1/4" thick, MDF (and cheap). I'm thinking to finish out the interior walls with this stuff, then blow in insulation.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Georgia-Pacific-48-in-x-8-ft-Smooth-White-MDF-Wall-Panel/1000349191

That looks good!

 

[EddieWalker]

Are you going to add any windows before finishing off the walls on the inside?

Have you had any event planners out to look at the building and get their advice on what you should do to attract the most people?

Are you really going to use paneling on the interior?

 

[farmer2009]

What about something like this? Instead of paneling. https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...260405-c-8178.htm?searchTermToProduct=5016247

 

[fried1765]

My house has a den the previous owner finished with T-111 to make it look rustic. It does, however it's a pain with dust and spiderwebs. I can't imagine how much grime would hang in it in a garage/barn. I'd go with something more smooth.

Definitely no T-111 inside!
It will be impossible to keep clean,....... even if you paint it.

 

[Loaderman22]

Here's my 2 cents...
You will get the most coverage & it would be most cost effective to go with sheet goods to close in the walls. Your 2 panel ideas would install the fastest, & are cheaper per sq.ft. than the individual barnwood boards mentioned earlier. The mdf type products will be more stable through the changes in humidity and temperature figuring that this space wont be conditioned all the time. Downside, the sheets will have a tell tale seam every 8 feet. However you could do the chevron or similar up to 36"-48" high, add a true chair-rail to protect it from the chairs along the walls, then do gypsum board (sheetrock) above.

You could also look into these products:

Nantucket Beadboard - Standard Bead

They have 1/4" thick, but you really want to put something behind it as its not super stiff, the 1/2" thick or thicker would be better right onto the studs. They also carry beadboard in thin (1/8") or so sheets at your local box store, but the grooves/beads look cheesy. Its easy to wipe off & if painted white its timeless at least up in these parts.




You could also put fake columns inside every 20' to make it look like an old post & beam barn,
or go classic & put in a built up columns out of pvc. See the columns on the walls?

The best idea may be to go with your gut & put in what fits your local customers, I wouldn't go to Maine for my wedding looking for a western themed venue. Look for something easy to maintain, to clean, fits your customers, & some thought into "can I buy this again, should something get damaged or if I run short in January?"

As for the gable wall, I think you framed it correctly, the gable ends are the most prone to wind loads, being a large vertical face, so anchoring each stud top to bottom is probably the best bet. you can always fill in with cross blocking to support the outside panels.

 

[rick1ryan]

I wanted to give an update on my project, and (of course) ask for advice on how to attach a lean to. To recap, I'm building a wedding venue and had a company do a basic pole barn structure; 6X6 posts and galvalume roof, then put down concrete. This is a 90'X40'X10' structure. I then used T1-11 for the exterior, attached to 2X6s between each post. Had a painter to acid stain the floors and stain the exterior. We just finished insulating and I put sanded plywood on the interior walls and painted white, 1 coat (so the grain shows thru). The final part of this project is a 48'X14' lean to. This will house M/F bathrooms, along with bride/groom suites on either side of the bathrooms. First, let me post a couple of pics.


Now for the lean to. I've installed septic and plumbed the bathrooms (contracted). Yesterday, concrete was poured and this weekend I'll be studding in the walls. Once it's closed in, my plumber will finish plumbing and install fixtures. Water tap is already installed. Here's a pic:


The outside of the wall will be 8ft and I need it to butt up against the upper roofline with an overlap and seal to keep water out. I'm not confident about attaching the rafters to the 2X6 purlin so I'm thinking to remove the purlin, then attach a header to the building and anchor directly to that purlin. I'll then slide each galvalume piece under the upper piece, then screw into a 2X4 from both the upper and lower pieces of galvalume. Finish off by sealing the joint from the top and perhaps foam inside (minimal expanding). The bathrooms are in the center with bride & groom suites on either side (bride's side is bigger). Any suggestions?

 

[rick1ryan]

BTW, for whatever it's worth, I did install cross braces on every corner of the building. I believe that suggestion was mentioned in this thread. Thanks for whoever gave the advice.

 

[EddieWalker]

I would attach my rafters to the sides of your rafter tails and have the rafters resting on top of a purlin or beam. Ideally, the slope of the metal would remain the same, but if you need to change the slope to keep the 8 foot wall height, you will need flashing that goes under the existing metal and over the new metal.