Trailer safety Q's

[CTyler]

Trailer safety Q\'s

Hello, I know some of this was discussed on other threads.
I have a 18' car trailer and a L3130 tractor, FEL and Woods 9000 BH. The trailer is rated for #7000.

When chaining down the tractor are the stake pockets strong enough to chain to? I'm assuming not.

I would assume running the chain thru the stake pocket and hooking on the frame would be ok.

Or should I just have some hefty tie down points installed and chain to them. Not sure what those are actually called. They look like a big 3/4 cast iron D ring that pulls up about 6-8 inches or so from the frame.

Is grade 43 chain strong enough, using 4 of them with #5400
ratcheting binders? This is all I have at the moment.

Would it be safe with two grade 70 chains?

Thanks
Chris

 

[RobS]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Hey Chris, it sounds like we've got the same trailer (or close). I've always chained to the stake pockets. I'll use either chain or ratchet straps, depending on the configuration of my tractor (straps are a whole lot easier on paint!). My stake pockets seem pretty beefy plus I've got a rub rail welded all the way around the outside of them. For chain, I drop the chain through the pocket then bring the hook back up and secure to the outside of the pocket. Keeps the hook from falling off as you are tightening things up /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

I haven't heard of numbered grade chain out here. I use 5/16 and 3/8 for mine with log chain binders. One up front and one back. One thing that helps in the long run, I haul mine a lot, is to weld chain hooks to either side of the loader frame up front below the radiator. Takes runnig chain over this and under that out of the equation, and takes the worry out of hurting cylinders and paint. In the back I use the pin on the hitch to run the chain behind.

 

[CTyler]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

The stake pockets look like 1/8" and welded all the way up the sides to the frame. I'm sure thier strong enough for hauling the tractor around. No rub rail welded to them. I'd feel a whole lot better about using them if it did.

My concern is, are they strong enough to hold the tractor if I hit someone/something or they hit me. I want to be sure, call me paranoid. Knock on wood...no accidents 15+ years and then it was a deer running into the side of my car...LOL! Geawd thier stupid...anyway....

The chain is 3/8 but grade 43 is not real hard. I do have some 2" straps. The straps are definately strong enough but the hook doesn't give me a warm fuzzy.

Welding hooks on the tractor sounds like a good idea.

Thanks
Chris

 

[Phred]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

Is grade 43 chain strong enough, using 4 of them with #5400
ratcheting binders?

<hr></blockquote>



Depends on the size. Clearly Grade 43 1/2" would work fine (see link below).
I recall a thread about load binders if memory serves. I like the ratchet style rather than the flip type. The flip type require a helper bar to geat really tight, which can be dangerous. Also the ratchet type will not open up by accident.


I guess ideally both ends of the tractor would be tied down with chains and binders that are rated to the full load of the machine. That way in a bad accident when the full weight of the machine is thrown forward (or backward) the chain on the back (front) will not break and send your baby into the pickup bed (backward onto the road).
I do not think that everyones does it this way but then again I saw a guy just today pulling a small dozer with a 3/4 ton truck/w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif. I wondered how many tons overweight he was.

Fred

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.towman.com/zips/newcatlg/bulkchain/>http://www.towman.com/zips/newcatlg/bulkchain/</A>

 

[Gfranklin]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

I can see why 1/8" thick material would make you pause. That is somewhat thin and in in a severe loading such as an impact you could get some deformation and concentrate the load causing the pocket to fail. I would think two 3/8" chains of any grade would be OK. If you have any way to post a picture, that would really open up the conversation.

15 years of being paranoid has served you well, don't stop now. If welding is an option, fire it up. The more anchor points the better, especially on the trailer. I don't like welding anything while it is attached to the tractor as a rule but sometimes you can't avoid it. Just make sure your grind/sand a GOOD grounding point as close to your welding as possible. I do like the idea of welding some hooks or some kind of attaching point to my loader. Right now I run the chain through the loader's torque tube.

Greg

 

[CTyler]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

LOL!!

Just pulled up a window to search for the load rating on the chains. Thought I'd pop in here real quick. Thanks for the link! Looks like 3/8 grade 43 is rated at #5400 the same as the binders. Should be good enough.

 

[hazmat]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

<font color=blue>I guess ideally both ends of the tractor would be tied down with chains and binders that are rated to the full load of the machine. That way in a bad accident when the full weight of the machine is thrown forward (or backward) the chain on the back (front) will not break and send your baby into the pickup bed (backward onto the road).</font color=blue>

Ideally you want the chain rated at some multiple of the tractor weight. When you come to a quick stop (ie slam into something) in an accident, you have a good chance of experiencing several G's of deacceleration. The actaul force depends on several variables, how tight is the chain, what angle is it relative to the accident forces, etc, etc, etc.

Chain ratings do have a factor of safety associated with them, that's why the "working load" is lower than the "breaking strength".

If I had to pick a number, I'd use a chain (or maybe two chains) per end with a working load 4X the tractor's weight. This assumes the breaking strength is about 2X the working load. Granted this is easier to do with smaller tractors.

It all depends how confident you need to be that it won't break free in the event of a wreck.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Securing equipment is just that. In most cases worrying about using a chain big enough not to part in an accident will probably take parts of the trailer with it if you slam into something. Most trailers, car haulers that are used for small tractors, aren't built that heavy. I would just be comcerned about it sliding or rolling in a corner or sudden braking, not hitting some immovable abject.

 

[hazmat]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Good point Randall.

Got me thinking, is a 7,000 # trailer only designed to support the weight (suspension) and stop it (brakes) or will it "contain" the load in the event of a wreck? If you look at an 18 wheeler cargo trailer, the box is pretty darn weak compared to the load capacity hmmmm.

I'd still sleep better knowing that the tie down system is as strong or stronger than the trailer.

 

[PJR]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

HI all:

I have a 18' tilt bed 10,000 trailer, I use 5/16 chain and log truck chain binders too. I made some tie downs that bolt to the front of the tractor using some factory holes in the frame of the tractor, these work great and save the paint. That green paint expensive! In the back I use a clevis on the hitch.

I had a 7000 lbs car trailer but it was to light to haul the tractor and implements plus the ramps are a pain to use. In the spring and summer I do tractor work for people, mostly pasture work mowing, spraying, fertlizing, seeding 10 ac or less.

RD: I go to Aberdeen alot, the place I work for builds onboard scales for log trucks "VULCAN SCALES". Its nice over their we also take the horses to the beach in the summer. Lets see some pictures of your tractor tied down to your trailer it might give some good ideas and save a problem for some people that don't haul as much as you.

PJR

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Here you go. This is just the way I do it, hope it gives some ideas.
As far as the trailer, when I had 2 axles under it, it wasn't quite as steep, still loading is no problem. The next one I build it will be 2' longer and that will level it some on loading. I will say that people are shocked when I start backing off until it tilts up.
The stake pockets are made with 3/16 2X4 tubing. A wood 2X4 fits them perfectly. By tying in the cross members and the rail down the side with them it makes for a strong platform. As you can see, with the opening next to the wood and the rail, I can use it to tie down anywhere down the sides, makes it very handy, but mostly I use the pockets.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

pic

 

[CTyler]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Your stake pockets look a lot stronger than mine not to mention the added rail. Mine are aprox 4x5 and are half peices welded to the frame instead of square tube.

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

onother pic

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Having a hard time with the pics, doesn't seem to want to accept them.
Yes, I like to over build a bit, helps for longevity.

 

[PJR]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

RD:

It looks like you use 4 load binders, one at each corner?

I like the hook idea, mine I have to pull the chains through and I use two load binders, your way looks quicker to unhook and hook plus the added safety, If one chain breaks you still have three to go.

Thank for the help I will redo mine before spring,

The pictures are great it looks sunny over their too.

Thanks PJR

 

[rdbrumfield]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Believe me, there just happened to be a hole in the clouds. First spotty blue sky in several weeks.

 

[rdln]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

Welcome PJR, its nice to have another 970 owner on the block.
I was curious how you went about using the existing holes on the front to tie down with. Does the chain touch the top of your bucket still?

 

[PJR]

Re: Trailer safety Q\'s

HI rdln:
On the 870, 970,1070 they have holes at the bottom front of the tractor frame, I don't know what they are for but I made some tiedowns that bolt to that spot, and the chain just clears the bucket along the sides.

PJR