Trailer Ideas Needed

[Rich Waugh]

I really need some sort of a trailer I can drag around with both my tractor and my pickup, and I'm looking for suggestions on which way to go. This will be a DIY deal since I don't have the funds to run out and buy one.

What I'm looking for is ideas/suggestions for how I should build it, what features would be handy to have and reasonable to include, etc. I'm planning to use it to haul brush and trash around the farm, haul building materials for the new house (someday), maybe hauling steel from my shipper, hauling dirt/rocks/gravel/sand from the quarry, and possibly even hauling ironwork I've made to clients' places for installation. Might even want to use it to haul around my riding mower or generator and welder.

Our roads here are mostly kinda narrow and twisty and often have steep inclines that would be impossible in a place that got snow or ice. It's a marine environment so stuff rusts quickly if not carefully prepped and painted.

Pretty much anything I'm going to need in order to make this trailer, with the exception of wood and possibly tires, I'll have to order from the States and have shipped down. No real trailer supply places here, limited steel supply, etc. There are places that carry some stuff for boat trailers, but they're outrageously expensive from what I've seen.

I have the "dual remotes" on the tractor - that is, there are two QDs back there (that I have no idea at all how they operate). I doubt that I need a tilt bed trailer anyway, so unless you guys know of a reason that I should go to the extra expense and trouble I probably wouldn't bother with that feature.

There's the background scenario, what do you all think is the best way to go?

Rich

 

[Bob Rooks]

My wordy post just went to cyberspace
So anyway, a box frame, A-frame tongue, and tandem axle bogie walking beam torsional suspension.

Do you plan on using it on public roads?

Bogie suspension demo: YouTube - LEGO Sojourner - Rocker Bogie Suspension - No. 2 of 2

 

[Rich Waugh]

Well, I plan to use it on what we cal public roads down here - which is about like a farm track anywhere else. It won't get high-speed use as our "highway" is only about 9 miles long and has a stoplight every mile or so. :confused2:

That was a totally cool little toy thing and I can see the advantage of the bogie wheel suspension but that may be a bit of overkill for my planned uses. :thumbsup:

Rich

 

[Bob Rooks]

You indicated that you would be carrying heavy loads, hence the tandem axles.
You also said it would be used behind your truck and tractor, hence the single point bogie suspension - far superior to the four-spring suspension, both for backing ability and load capacity.
You also suggested a dumping option, hence the box frame construction and A-frame hitch for rigidity to mount such a platform.
I designed a similar smaller trailer for a friend. He added hydraulics, electric brakes, etc., all for less than $2,000. It looks similar to this but larger:
Agri-Fab ATV Tandem Axle Cart — 1000-Lb. Capacity, Model# 45-0350 | Lawn + Garden Utility Trailers | Northern Tool + Equipment

He doesn't take it on public roads.

 

[Rich Waugh]

Bob,

My idea of a heavy load is something like 3,000# - not sure where that falls on the normal scale of loads. Since our island is only 26 miles long and I avoid the far east end like the it was Iraq, my longest travel distance would be about ten miles. Mostly it would be two or three miles to the quarry and back.

The bogie wheel suspension looks like a great concept if I can figure out how to build it. I'll have to Google the topic and see if there are some drawings out there.

I'm still vacillating on the dumping option - a lot of extra materials and work involved and I would likely use it only very rarely. Tough call, bu tI'll probably opt to go with the cheaper design. Money is really tight for me.

Rich

 

[nuffer460]

Rich Waugh, I am designing a trailer very much like what you are concidering. I designed it as an Agriculteral Dump Trailer. It uses a tandem wailing beam axel system with electric brakes. This is what Bob Rooks is sugesting. It 's a great idea for weight and stability.

Email me at nuffield460@hughes.net

I have it on a CAD pdf file. It's to large to post. It is an active pdf file. So you can rotate the picure, zoom in and out, etc.

 

[rrboomer]

Hello ! I have a 4x8 trailer that has worked 20 yrs. The rear assy. from a dodge type mini van unbolts from body at the leaf springs. They don't fail in normal use so scrap yard prices are cheap. Just mount to frame and go. Every parts store has parts. They will take a lot of abuse and not fail. The springs bottom out and the tires smash near flat and it will carry fire wood out. I bowed the trailer around the wheels and had a frame shop buddy bend it right again. Good Luck

 

[F250DSLPWR]

I have a 6'x12' trailer, works great. If you have narrow trails, maybe use a narrower 5'x10' or 5'x12'. I have an ATV, I built a small 4x5 trailer (hwy capable wheels, tires lights etc..) that works great also for our narrow ranch trails. You can get an axel, hubs, wheels and tires from Tractor Supply or Norther tool.

 

[adjusterr]

You might want to consider looking for a junk tandem axle camping trailer. Once the roof lets go on an old camper they become junk rapidly and sometimes can be picked just for hauling them away. Tear off the superstructure and you have a good starting base. Good luck.

 

[greg_g]

Not sure what a boogie axle is, but you might want to consider a torsion axle. I put a 5000# (gross) capacity under a 5x8 box trailer on D-range tires (left picture). But since shipping is one of your concerns, you can get it in stub version too (right picture). Either way, you've got a decent carrying capacity on one axle instead of two. The advantage being that you can partially dump a single axle trailer by just unhooking it from the hitch, a feat that I cannot perform with my tandem trailer.

//greg//

 

[nuffer460]

Greg,
Look under a Road Tractor. If the rear axels are sprung, instead of air ride. You have either a sprung or a hendrics suspended walking beam system. They connect both rear axels front to back. These two walking beams are conected to a pivot pin. This pivot pin is secured by two bushed up right arms or mounts. These two arms then can be mounted to springs and frame connectors, ( sprung ) or have rubber blocks between the pivot mount and the frame. ( Hendrics ) If a walking beam system is involved, there called "bogies" At least they have been called that since I could only see myself in the baby moon Axel covers.

 

[Nuno]

maybe a picture will be helpful to show how a Boogie Axle looks like

 

[Boeing]

Hey guys,
I have a "factory" 16' wood decked tandum equipment trailer. It has (2) 2500# axles (I think) When I put my 3800# Kubota w/ loader on it it flattens the springs and rides 5" off the ground at the rear. HOW can I raise this trailer? More springs, air bags? I have dropped the tow hitch which helped some, now BOTH ends are about 7" off the ground. Thanks

 

[Bob Rooks]

Hey guys,
I have a "factory" 16' wood decked tandum equipment trailer. It has (2) 2500# axles (I think) When I put my 3800# Kubota w/ loader on it it flattens the springs and rides 5" off the ground at the rear. HOW can I raise this trailer? More springs, air bags? I have dropped the tow hitch which helped some, now BOTH ends are about 7" off the ground. Thanks

2 x 2,500 lbs. = 5,000 lbs. Deduct 2,000 lbs. for sprung trailer weight (assuming it is stout factory built), and you have a load capacity of 3,000 lbs. with no reserve, and you are already 800 lbs. over capacity. You have two options so you don't put yourself, your friends, and every one else in your proximity at risk of serious injury or death.

1) Get a "real" trailer with certified adequate capacity (In your case, 7,000 lb. GVWR.

2) Get a smaller tractor.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree with Bob Rooks. You do not have enough trailer plain and simple. I doubt it weighs as much as he thinks it does but more like 1500# but either way its not enough. Something is going to fail sooner or later. A axle will bend, bearing will fail, tire will fail, spring will fail, ect.

Chris

 

[Bob Rooks]

"factory"

I wonder what THAT means?
I'm thinking home made with lightweight travel trailer axles. Not even sure if Dexter makes a tandem setup that light.:drool:

 

[Boeing]

Thanks for the info...I misunderstood that weight rating. I thought that it was load weight above the trailer itself. "Factory" means not-home-made. There is a metal TAG attached to the tongue with serial numbers and weights. When I first picked this tractor up it was already loaded on this trailer. Now I'll double check the axle rating when I go back to the storage. Hopefully they're 3,500 which is what I read often in ads. That would give me 7,000 minus the 1,500 but I still have my orig question. HOW can I raise this trailer bed some? and thanks for your time, I really appreciate it.

 

[greg_g]

HOW can I raise this trailer bed some?

What size rims/tires are on it? If they stuck 13s or 14s on it - and/or cheap wide oval tires - you can gain some height simply by going to 15" and 75 profile. Which brings up another point. The axle load ratings don't mean sqat, if you don't have the right tires to support that much. 7500# gross means each of your four tires needs to be rated no less than 1875# each.

FWIW, I too have one of those 16' Sikeston tandems. It came with crap tires (215/70R15 load range C (1609# each). It's now wearing four ST225/75R-15s load range D (2575# each)

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

In your OP you said that "it flattens the springs". That is what led me to believe you have a very light trailer. Typically, trailer springs do not have overload leaves below a Class 8 trailer rating. Anytime an elliptic leaf spring is loaded "flat", it is at the threshold of it's not being able to recover from it's bending moment, and may fail. Your tires, wheels, axles, and suspension are supposed to be matched to give you the trailer GAWR or GVWR.
I recommend taking the springs to a spring shop to have them checked, and maybe add a leaf or two if possible, and maybe get re-arched. You also may need new springs. You can also do as Greg suggested - get bigger tires and wheels, or just get a bigger trailer. Just because the tractor came on that trailer doesn't mean it's right for it in the first place.
Also; what is the hitch height on your towing vehicle? Does the trailer sit level when hitched and loaded?

You also placed the word factory between quotation marks indicating that someone else made the unsubstantiated statement.

 

[Rich Waugh]

On some trailers you can just switch the spring perches from the bottom of the axle to the top of the axle and gain between 3 and 5" deck height. The axles, springs and attachment geometry have to be appropriate in order for this to be done safely, however. Best bet is to take it to a proper trailer/suspension shop and ask their advice. It isn't rocket science, but lives can be at stake and that's enough to dictate expert advice.

Rich