Trailer for Kubota B2920

[ajacobs]

I want to buy a utility trailer for my B2920. The trailer needs to accomodate a load of 3,500+ lbs (tractor, plus BH and FEL). Any suggestions would be greatly appreciaed. I live in NW Connecticut. Thank you very much.

Andrew
ajacobs@mreem.com

 

[George2615]

For the load you indicate a good used double axle 7K car trailer would work great. 18-20' would be more than enough plus you could use it for hauling a car if need be. Craigslist or Swap Sheet should provide a few leads at reasonable prices. Landscape trailers are usually cheaper but if you got one you'd be limited as to what you could haul since most are only 76" wide. Car trailers are usually 82" wide between the fenders and not much more money.

 

[Soundguy]

i'd go with a minimum of a 16' tandem axle car hauler. it will usually be 6k or 7k rated.. way mor ethan you need.. but the length will help you ballance the laod and get good tounge weight.

good tandem car haulers weight in around 1700-2000# depending on frame and ramp style.. thus leaving you with 5k payload or so in a 7k setup.

soundguy

 

[workinallthetime]

haul my b3030 tlb on a 18' car hauler style with a dovetail. made a drop ramp for loading the zd326. works great

 

[whistlepig]

I have a 16' tandem axle PJ trailer with a beaver tail that I am very pleased with. I would highly recommend a PJ trailer.

 

[JJZ 109]

I bought a 7,000 Quality brand tandem axle. 16' with another 2' or so for the tail. Pressure treated 2x6 deck. Works great for my B3030 cab with loader and brush hog on.

 

[donn12]

I need the exact same thing in the DC area. Any recommendations? I love the Holmes trailer but its about 3k!

 

[ajacobs]

I logged back into the TractorByNet website this evening and was amazed at the number of thoughtful responses to my question yesterday. Thank you all very much. I am going to look for a used tandem axle car hauler that is 16'+.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I logged back into the TractorByNet website this evening and was amazed at the number of thoughtful responses to my question yesterday. Thank you all very much. I am going to look for a used tandem axle car hauler that is 16'+.

Do a careful cost analysis when buying used. Here are my observations from my nearly 20 years dealing in trailers. There is 1 good deal out of 10+ used trailers. Many many times, say 75%+, a used trailer will cost you more in the first 2 years of ownership versus new.

Here is why.

New tires. $400 or more. Trailer tires last 5 years or so.
New bearings or serviced. $300 or $125 if you do it yourself.
New brakes. $200 for the parts and labor will be $150 unless you do it.
Lights and wiring. $75 for the parts if it needs completely redone.
New wood deck. $250 for the materials. Time consuming job for a DIY but there are tricks to getting it done quick.

Really look at what you are going to do and make sure you compare it to new. Look at the cost of ownership, not just purchase price and you will see what I am getting at.

Chris

 

[ajacobs]

After reading Chris' post, a new trailer it is. The next questions are (i) which make/model and (ii) where do I buy it? If shipping cost nearly as much as the trailer, that doesn't work. Here are the brands that my brief research turned up:

Kaufman
Bri-Mar
PJ
Belmont
Worthington
Triton
Holmes
Quality Trailers
Welch
Big Tex
It also seems that there are people like New England Trailer who build custom/build to suit.

Any thoughts on quality, value, rankings, customer service, etc would be appreciated (again).

Andrew

 

[Diamondpilot]

All you listed are good trailers. I would still look for a used one but just realize what needs to be looked at.

Funny thing with trailers say versus trucks is a used trailer is worth about what it cost new. Example I personally have a 7,000# 18' Car Hauler. I paid $1400 in 2003. I guarantee I could get 85-120% of that for it today because a new one in this area is $2300. A $35,000 truck bought the same year would be worth 40% of what was paid for it.

Also, do not get hung up on price versus what you see on the internet. I can buy trailers form my sources in Kentucky and Missouri for 60% of what you buy them for in the North East. Just the way it works. They make 85% of the trailers in the mid-west so they are cheaper due to transport cost. Compare in you area only then buy what YOU view as the best bang for the buck.

One last thing. Make sure your budget is set to handle the other items needed. You will spend $200 or so on quality binders and chains to secure your rig. You will need a spare tire, 6 ton bottle jack, and a 4 way lug wrench so that is another $250. Now it comes to your truck. If you are not towing currently you will need a brake controller, $200 or so installed, and if its not equipped with a tow package you will need the proper hitch and tranny cooler. About $150 for each of them.

Go into this educated. Any help you need and let us know.

Chris

 

[RobertN]

Chris brought up good points, Re: used. From my now 10 year old trailer, that is about what I have done to it over the years. If you buy used, I would plan to do all those thing.

He also brought up good points Re: new. Most trailers I have seen come bare. Plan on a spare, a spare tire holder. The lug wrench for your truck wont fit the trailer. And you may want that jack... Same he mentioned for the truck; brake controller, proper harness ect.

Think too, about tie points. I chain to the points that came on the trailer. But, I added a bunch of J-hooks for using rope to tie hay, ect.

My trailer had new tires, and brakes on one axle(7klb 2 axle 16'). I have read numerous times over the last 13 years here about places selling new trailers with no brakes, and/or used tires.

I'd make sure the new trailer comes with new tires. And, I would get brakes on both axles.

The other thing to think about, is chains, binders, and maybe a toolbox to store that stuff(tongue mount maybe). And, the hitch and ball...

Things to think about. And all of them make the $$$ add up too

 

[ajacobs]

Thanks again for the support. Maybe a dumb question, but is the bottle jack required to hold up the back of the trailer when loading, even if the trailer is attached to the truck? Another question - I have a new truck (diesel; 7,500 lb max towing) that came equipped with a receiver hitch and wiring harness for the trailer lights, but no tranny cooler or brake controller. I will check with the manufacturer, but have you heard of the installation of these items voiding the truck's warranty? Are these easy installations for most any trailer dealer?

Andrew

 

[RobertN]

On the newer trucks, the brake controller is easy. Either the truck came with a pig tail, or the dealer has them. Four wires on pigtail connect to the four wires on the controller. Then the pigtail plugs in under the dash. You may need another fuse in the fusebox...

Couldn't tell you on the tranny cooler; mine has all the HD stuff. The newer trucks have a lot of stuff packed in there... If you have the hitch and wire harness already, are you sure you don't have a tranny cooler? Sounds like you have a tow package...

 

[JJZ 109]

Also, do not get hung up on price versus what you see on the internet. I can buy trailers form my sources in Kentucky and Missouri for 60% of what you buy them for in the North East. Just the way it works. They make 85% of the trailers in the mid-west so they are cheaper due to transport cost. Compare in you area only then buy what YOU view as the best bang for the buck.
Chris

Good point. When I last looked at enclosed trailers to haul 2 Harleys with, I could find brand new in the south (Virginia, Georgia, Florida) from dealers for about 60% or slightly less than what used trailers are going for in my area.
Although I haven't purchased another yet, I'll need to weigh the cost of fuel and my time to travel against the price difference.
Now that I've gone from a 2010 FX4 to a 1997 F Super Duty diesel bucket truck for the biz, I'd most likely be further ahead to deal locally.

 

[whistlepig]

Good point. When I last looked at enclosed trailers to haul 2 Harleys with, I could find brand new in the south (Virginia, Georgia, Florida) from dealers for about 60% or slightly less than what used trailers are going for in my area.
Although I haven't purchased another yet, I'll need to weigh the cost of fuel and my time to travel against the price difference.
Now that I've gone from a 2010 FX4 to a 1997 F Super Duty diesel bucket truck for the biz, I'd most likely be further ahead to deal locally.

This is true. If you are willing to drive and pick up the trailer the savings are very significant.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Not sure what kind of diesel truck you have Original Poster but that reply tells me you are very green to all this. I am not knocking you, just want to keep you safe and educated.

First off, the worst diesel ever made have about a 10,000# tow rating. I am sure yours has much more than that. I am guessing you got that 7,500# number from the hitch??? That is by no means the tow rating of your truck, its the hitches limit. Probably without a Weight Distribution Hitch.

I have all the info for about every truck made in the past 10 plus years so I can help you with any questions you may have. I will need very specific info though on the truck. Year, Make, Model, Bed Length, Cab Type, Transmission Type, 4x4 or not, Gear Ratio, ect. My guess is your truck, if new has a tow rating of nearly twice what you think it is.

Chris

 

[ajacobs]

OK, this is embarassing, but the "truck" is a Mercedes GL. The diesel is only 3.0 liters, but has 400 lb ft of torque (210 hp). I get 30 mpg in a 5,500 lb SUV and it is a "clean" diesel - i.e. much lower particulate emissions than traditional diesel engines. I hope that you can forgive my not being 100% forthright!

 

[Soundguy]

have a big tex.. been good to me. on it's 2nd deck, is 11ys old. still on oem brakes, however I'd say, from adjustment they are wore 85%, thus next year I'll be doing brakes and bearings.

have repacked bearings once mid ownership, will get new when i do brakes. same with the decking... will be time for new.

thus in 12ys of ownership she will be on her 3rd deck, 2nd set of brakes and bearings, and a couple new tires out of the 5.. has had new lamps already.. but that was due to horses kicking them

so figure every 5ys as chris said, on putting spome money into them.. and most people don't put the money in then resell.. they sell em right when they need to put money in.. so make sure you get a swinging deal if you buy used.

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

This is true. If you are willing to drive and pick up the trailer the savings are very significant.

yep.. when i bought my gooseneck, I had to drive to north florida to get my best deal... nothing within 2-3 cities of me was near as good, even considering 100$ of fuel round trip.. etc..

soudnguy