Trailer for an L3400

[RadarTech]

hi folks,
Well I am thinking about buying a trailer for the 3400..
and I really don't expect to pull it much..
But the coming year may see the construction of another house and I don't think I am going to leave the tractor there....

Looking around I found :
Buy & Sell New & Used Trailers 6 FT 4 IN X 16 UTILITY TRAILER WITH TUBING RAMP GATE at TrailerShopper.com

Buy & Sell New & Used Trailers CarryOn Equipment 7X16 Tandem Axle Black at TrailerShopper.com

pulling truck is a 2010 Tacoma,4x4 LB, automatic with tow package-
Rating is 6500 towing and I have a brake controller...

Should I not consider doing this?

or will a small 15 foot of so trailer be ok?

my L3400 has a loader, with loaded rear tires..
and a "light" boxblade 350 or so...

thoughts???

J

 

[Diamondpilot]

I think you would be fine. Just get a brake controller and a trailer with brakes. Also get whats called a set back jack so you can open your tail gate and spring for a spare tire.

As for the rear gate these are not heavy enough for tractors. They are made for mowers and such so look for a heavier ramp option.

Chris

 

[GATC35]

I don't like 3500 lb axles under equipment trailers. The trailer it self will weight around 2000 lbs., tractor will go 3000 to 4000 lbs. Add FEL and a box blade now tractor is up around 4000 to 5000 lbs. Throw in chains, binders, tools, and fuel and you add 200 to 400 lbs. So before you know it your at your magic number of 7000 lbs. I prefer dual 7000 lb axles just for the safety margin. Yes, they are more expensive but in the long run it will give you some growing room. Also keep in mind your deck lenght. If you ever plan on moving your tractor with a rotary cutter (aka bush hog) attached you will find out real quick how much another 2 feet of deck lenght will be worth. I would go with a 18 + 2 with dual 7000 lb axles (with brakes on both) with flap up ramps.

 

[RadarTech]

5000 lbs for a L3400?
base tractor ~2600 + loader ~700 +box blade ~400 =~3700
+loaded rear ags ~300 = ~4000

Can anyone out there weigh in on these numbers?

I think the 7000 LB axle trailers would be too much for my little Tacoma...


Thanks,
J

 

[GATC35]

I understand where you are coming from and you are wise to consider your towing vehicle. I just wanted to give you some food for thought. Keep in mind you have to add the weight of the trailer in there also. So your 4000 lb number has now jumped to 6000 lbs. Add chains binders, tools, fuel, spare tire, etc and your knocking on the door of 7000 lbs. I tow with a F-250 diesel so a bigger trailer will not effect me as much. Equipment trailers also come with 5200 lb axles, that may be something to consider. I own/operate a landscaping company and I just don't like 3500 lb axles under a tractor or a skid steer. That's my 2 cents worth, maybe others will share their thoughts and opinions.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Anything more than a 7K trailer is just plain overkill for your tractor or truck. I have a 18' tandem axle trailer that weighs just a tad over 1,250# that I just used Friday to go pick up a broken down Chevy 1500 for a neighbor. My trailer has a winch. Anyway I use it all the time to tow my 5,200# tractor with no issues.

As you can see mine is a wide version of the common 18' landscape trailer. Its pictured here behind my 2004 F-250 PSD 4x4. It has ramps, no gate for me.

Chris

 

[RadarTech]

Chris,
If I may..
how much did you pay for that trailer?

Got any pics?

I agree with you on the 7K trailer...

Actually I thought about that one trailer in the earlier link with the weak ramp, and just taking that off and building something there....

Anyway....

GATC35--
Trying to be conservative here and careful.. In the case of attachements, the moves will be few and fairly short-- 30 -40 miles.. I have a small 5x8 trailer now, and I could always take the heavy attachments on it and drop it off and then go get the tractor... More work , more gas, more time, but safety is not always efficient...

I have done some tasks that took 2 or 3 times as long just to avoid some risk that just looked a little bit more than I wanted to stomach..

IE-- instead of driving over rough looking areas, I have spent hours digging and smoothing them just to feel safe than drive that what looks like a minor angle....


thanks for the comments guys...

J

 

[RadarTech]

Chris,
I missed the pic... thanks!

J

 

[careyo63]

I think the 7000 LB axle trailers would be too much for my little Tacoma...


Thanks,
J[/QUOTE]

You still should be just fine.I have a larger Tractor set up about the same weight as yours also that I put on my 7000 LBS.trailer. I can't hardly tell any difference of it being back there than my CUT. It is every bit of 1000 lbs. more. But then again on here it's like asking women the same thing about a men. 90% of the time of course bigger is better. And the honest ones will tell you true but still seems to get the job done

 

[gerard]

For your use I think you're fine with what you're looking at. I use a dual axel 16 foot trailer and it's plenty with just the tractor/loader/implement. I did weld another set of square tube in the ramp where my tires go as the expanded metal was a little light to support the tires of the tractor. (They wound up right in the middle of two supports). The trailer is rated for 7500lbs. Not sure what axels are on it. I've had 8000 lbs on it by mistake once. (Got some stone dust and didn't realize how heavy that stuff was until they scaled me out). That squatted the tires and springs to the point that the fender was just about touching the top of the tire. So now I have an overload guage to go by! One thing to look at is frame and rail construction. I made sure I got a fully boxed frame and rail. Soe of the cheaper ones use angle iron for the rails. Not nearly as strong. Same with the frame. Make sure it has fully boxed square tubing. (I paid $2000 new in 2001)