theoshin
Silver Member
they changed the design on the 90 - my middle front caster is a 360 spin design like the outer ones. it is also adjustable in ht. the new on looks nonadjustable/fixed. hmm. saving costs or different manufacturer???
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Toolcat 5610 delivered
- Thread starter mdl6
- Start date
- Views: 18355
radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,016
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
they changed the design on the 90 - my middle front caster is a 360 spin design like the outer ones. it is also adjustable in ht. the new on looks nonadjustable/fixed. hmm. saving costs or different manufacturer???
The newer deck looks welded compared to the older deck which appeared to be pressed. New deck looks like it has more hieght. Welded decks are generally more expensive to make and some argue a better cut. Others argue that a welded deck holds more dried clippings under the deck because of the corners. I bought my 84" rfm rhino one year ago and it had a welded deck and now they went to a pressed deck version. Go figure.
I have a 90" Curtis plow blade for snow that I used on my Kubota CUT.
It has smaller male/female connectors on it with smaller hoses.
I talked to my dealer about changing them out to use on the Toolcat.
He was not sure if changing the hoses and connectors would suffice.
I think the Kubota hydraulic flow was 12-13 gpm and 5610 is higher than that.
Would there be a problem with this?
I have a buyer for the Curtis blade but going to a Bobcat blade would be at least $500 more net.
Good observation on the mower difference. It won't be of significance for me as i use other, smaller mowers in the more visible and manicured areas.
The turf tires are good for me as I have no dirt or mud to deal with on my property. I had turfs on the CUT and had no trouble on snow, although it did have 4 wheel drive that was needed at times.
Mike
It has smaller male/female connectors on it with smaller hoses.
I talked to my dealer about changing them out to use on the Toolcat.
He was not sure if changing the hoses and connectors would suffice.
I think the Kubota hydraulic flow was 12-13 gpm and 5610 is higher than that.
Would there be a problem with this?
I have a buyer for the Curtis blade but going to a Bobcat blade would be at least $500 more net.
Good observation on the mower difference. It won't be of significance for me as i use other, smaller mowers in the more visible and manicured areas.
The turf tires are good for me as I have no dirt or mud to deal with on my property. I had turfs on the CUT and had no trouble on snow, although it did have 4 wheel drive that was needed at times.
Mike
Rolando
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 586
- Location
- Northcentral Florida
- Tractor
- Bobcat Toolcat High Flow Turbo C-series
Is there any kind of a adjustable stop for the 3pt lift lever so that you can lift and quickly return to the same previous height?
radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,016
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
I have a 90" Curtis plow blade for snow that I used on my Kubota CUT.
It has smaller male/female connectors on it with smaller hoses.
I talked to my dealer about changing them out to use on the Toolcat.
He was not sure if changing the hoses and connectors would suffice.
I think the Kubota hydraulic flow was 12-13 gpm and 5610 is higher than that.
Would there be a problem with this?
I have a buyer for the Curtis blade but going to a Bobcat blade would be at least $500 more net.
Mike
Just change out the connector to the flat faced ones and keep your Curtis blade. Get adapters to go from the smaller hose to the larger flat face. I think most bobcat flat faced are 3/4" fittings but I have seen 1/2 and 5/8" flat faced couplers. Take your hose to a hydraulic store and they will have all the fittings you will need and the flat faced couplers. The toolcat has variable flow control for the auxillary hydraulics which will help slow the speed of the hydraulics to the cylinder. However, you can put an inexpensive flow restrictor (I have purchased these from TSC) in the hoses to reduce the flow. This is what I do with my skid steer and snow blade. If the flow through the restrictor is too slow, the center of the orifice can be drilled out slightly larger. There are also more expensive restrictors than have a variable knob to control flow rate. These run about $25 vs $4 for the simple restrictor.
radman1
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2006
- Messages
- 3,016
- Location
- midwest
- Tractor
- JD 4520, Toolcat 5610, Bobcat S300, Case-IH 125 Pro, Case-IH 245, IH 1086, IH 806
Is there any kind of a adjustable stop for the 3pt lift lever so that you can lift and quickly return to the same previous height?
There is no adjustable stop. You have to be careful and watch the depth gauge when you lower it to get the same height. When I reviewed the prototype it was a suggestion I recommend as well as, 3 rear outlets. I think you should be able to use an inexpensive stroke contol kit to limit the down control to the same height each time. I used these many times in the past on older farm implements such as pull type discs. Some stroke control kits can be clamped/bolted right onto the cylinder rod for more precise control. The ones shown below are stacked on top of each other until the correct depth is found. They come in variable thicknesses. TSC and other farms stores will have them or can order them.
STROKE CONTROL KIT - Agri Supply
Grip-Rite | Cylinder Depth Stop | Stroke Control for Farm Equipment
Rolando
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 586
- Location
- Northcentral Florida
- Tractor
- Bobcat Toolcat High Flow Turbo C-series
mdl6,
I field tested the new 90" mower for a while and I see that's it's out now, since that's the one that you got. One of the things I liked was the spinning indicator that tells you the blades are turning.
I've had issues with a piece of wood getting stuck between the blade and the deck and jamming the blade to a stop while the others keep turning. The only way I could tell it happened was when I saw smoke coming up from that blade spindle. I notice that they only have spinning wheel installed on the left hand blade. Probably because that's the one easiest to see from the operator's seat.
I wonder, how hard is it to be able to see the spindle of the passenger side blade? I've been thinking that I would want to order another of those spinning wheel spindles to install on the right hand blade, but I need to be able to see it for it to do any good. It doesn't seem like the middle blade has been a problem, only the side blades.
I field tested the new 90" mower for a while and I see that's it's out now, since that's the one that you got. One of the things I liked was the spinning indicator that tells you the blades are turning.
I've had issues with a piece of wood getting stuck between the blade and the deck and jamming the blade to a stop while the others keep turning. The only way I could tell it happened was when I saw smoke coming up from that blade spindle. I notice that they only have spinning wheel installed on the left hand blade. Probably because that's the one easiest to see from the operator's seat.
I wonder, how hard is it to be able to see the spindle of the passenger side blade? I've been thinking that I would want to order another of those spinning wheel spindles to install on the right hand blade, but I need to be able to see it for it to do any good. It doesn't seem like the middle blade has been a problem, only the side blades.
