Tire chains-what works best for you?

JonBarleycorn · Jan 3, 2006

I am now researching a set of rear chains, and have looked at tirechains.com thusfar. I get the impression from their site that ladder chains are not best for deep tread tires as in my NEW tires. I have considered the duo-grip and double ring.
What have you used and has it served you well?
Also, anyone buy from tractor chains from this outfit?

I bought a set of v-bars for my truck some years ago, and they are not the worst and not the best.

I found it interesting to note they also stated certain models of chains would damage pavement. Well, yeh....they are chains, and chains do that. Better to scratch the pavement than slide into the house.

BTW, primary use will be on steep, gravel road and secondary on level stamped concrete for snow/ice removal.

mrutkaus · Jan 3, 2006

I got and installed the duo grip v bar chains for the back of my CK30 ag treads, no snow yet, just been driving them around on gravel and dirt, they stay above the treads. Some ladder chains (car) I had I put on the front and they have gone down inside the treads, can't see they would do any good.

These rear ones seem like they are pretty hefty and will work well, but no snow/ice experience yet.

65lbs each!

Mike

Boondox · Jan 3, 2006

Jon -- I guess it sort of depends on your terrain and your type and amount of snow. I have a steep dirt road and driveways, bitter cold (-30) early in the winter and sloppy cold (25 to 35) late in the winter. Plenty of ice and snow ranging from light and fluffy to wet and very heavy. In my experience double ring are great in wet sloppy stuff or mud, but not on ice. For ice, the best IMO is a chain that gives you a continuous contact with the ground.

I use Valby ice spikes (attachment) but the current generation is a lot lighter and easier to handle at 120# per side than the 300# per side monsters I had on the L3010. So far, I've not noticed any decrease in grip.

Ice is tough. You need something that has edges if you want any significant grip. V-bars and ice spikes come to mind. The duo-grip and double rings just don't have the edges you need.

Pete

jimgerken · Jan 3, 2006

It sounds like you have ag tires. You need a chain set that will stand above the tire lugs, or cross over them to actually bite. If so, you can't use my setup, truck chains on turf tires, which works great.

jcmseven · Jan 3, 2006

Does anyone know if a "quick attach" chain that would work well on my JD 4520 with R4 tires exists? I have strongly thought about buying a set but cannot find what I need. I have very little clearance between my tire and fender well, and the tires are loaded, which means they weigh about 450# each. I would not use chains much (three-four times yearly) but I think they would help stopping on some of the big hills I have. I just need some that will mount pretty quickly and would hold up to 2-3 hours four times yearly on a tractor this heavy. I looked on most popular sites, but cannot tell by the pix which, if any, is the correct choice.

John M

Deerlope · Jan 3, 2006

Here is a link to the Valby ice chain www.icechains.com

lhfarm · Jan 3, 2006

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Does anyone know if a "quick attach" chain that would work well on my JD 4520 with R4 tires exists? I have strongly thought about buying a set but cannot find what I need. I have very little clearance between my tire and fender well, and the tires are loaded, which means they weigh about 450# each. I would not use chains much (three-four times yearly) but I think they would help stopping on some of the big hills I have. I just need some that will mount pretty quickly and would hold up to 2-3 hours four times yearly on a tractor this heavy. I looked on most popular sites, but cannot tell by the pix which, if any, is the correct choice.

John M )</font>
I purchased chains for my TC40DA and you can read about it here. I got them from tirechains.com and they took me about 20 minutes each to put on the first time. Since I got them on, we have had above normal temps, so haven't been able to try them out.
I laid the chains out behind the tractor and backed up until there was a couple inches of chain in front of the tires. Then I hung the chain over the tire. Not easy with the fender design and the heavy chain, but doable. Hook up was easy - just an S-hook on the inside and the adjustable hook on the outside.
I did take a drive around the barnyard and drove up a steep embankment without a problem. They will stay on top of the tread.
Bottom line is I don't know if I would want to put/take off lots of times, but it is certainly doable.

Deerlope · Jan 3, 2006

There is a lot easyer way to put any style chain on than the way you did it. Try it this way. Lay the chain out behind the tractor the way it will lay on the tire. Take a piece of 1/4" rope about 6 feet long and at the first cross link tie one end of the rope to the center of the first cross link. Then tie a big enough loop to fit over the tire tread and loop it over. Then drive the tractor forward and it will pull the chain right onto the tire. Just be sure to check that the chain is maintaining its pattern when it goes up and over the tire. I am in my mid 60's and if I had to manhandle mine they would never get put on.

Boondox · Jan 3, 2006

Deerlope -- I do it pretty much the same but use a heavy duty bungee cord. The lugs on my ags are big enough that they hold the bungee. When I back over the chain the bungee cord pulls it right up the tire.

Pete

lhfarm · Jan 3, 2006

Wow, wish I had posted earlier /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif! Thanks for the tips. I love reading this board. I'm always learning something.

JonBarleycorn · Jan 3, 2006

Yes, what I have ARE the Ag tires.

Those ice chains look like the ticket. I did not see any pricing for them however. Any idea of pricing?

Thanks!

Deerlope · Jan 3, 2006

Boondox, That method is per the instructions that came with the chains. I was surprised how tight they were when they came together. That is also how a lot of the loggers do their big skidder chains.

Deerlope · Jan 3, 2006

Your L 4330 has the same size tires as my L 3830 (14.9X24) and in "02" I paid 650 bucks and no tax because I use them in the production of maple syrup (a type of farming). I know that 650 clams seems like a lot of money and it is, but you will only have to buy them once. That site that I posted the link to does have 14.9 X24.

Boondox · Jan 3, 2006

Instructions? You got instructions with yours?!? I feel cheated! All I got was a big wooden box with a mess of heavy chains inside! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Pete

couchsachraga · Jan 3, 2006

I've always had good luck with the double ring chains-I grew up plowing my parents driveway with an old Farmall Cub with chains, and now I have a 4wd Yanmar (33hp) with ring chains for the rear and the "double V grip" chains for the front. Have yet to have a real problem with them. If you are ALWAYS on ice I can see the icechains.com one's are nice for the constant connection...but between ice, snow, slush, and mud, the ring chains (which are 'self cleaning' as the knock against each other) really work out well.

I've ordered my chains from tirechains.com in the past-quick service, exactly as ordered. I ordered my truck tire chains through a local Rudd dealer.

I plan on getting chains for my 2wd backhoe (so I can REALLY get stuck in the woods...) this spring, and will most likely order them from tirechains.com, unless I can scare up a used set.

Couchsachraga

BigAl · Jan 3, 2006

Here is a site that is about as good as it gets on tire chains for different uses . http://www.pewagchain.com/traction.htm When I was with Caltrans ,I was involved in a experimental program where we tried a number of different tire chains through the winter . We used pewag along with others in the test . We also made quite a few custom sets . A "spider" chain is great for tractors and stays up on the lug for added traction . Don't try "hard facing" as we did on one set of chains . It torn up the concrete slab in the equipment building as the tracor was moved in and out .

Deerlope · Jan 3, 2006

Boondox, When I opened that heavy wooden box I tryed man handleing those bears. That didn't work. I was about then that I found the instructions and presto they were on. The paper was right there on top but it looked the more advertising for different chain patterns. As I looked through it I found about 6 lines of how to do it.
Being that I hate to see a grown man cry I would be glad to scan my instructions and sent them to you. Oh, and BTW the rope was in the box also.

spikeland · Jan 3, 2006

no wonder why it took me an hour and a half to put my chains on.i jacked up the tractor (rear wheels off the ground)and put the chains on and spun the tire it took forever and was hard to get tension and hard to get it to line up.. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

JonBarleycorn · Jan 3, 2006

Wow!
There is soooo much pressure on deciding on the right set of chains...almost sounds like I need two sets.

"Yes, dear, this is a set of chains..yes, yes......I did get a set last week. Well, those are for the steep part of the gravel drive.....Oh this set? Well, you don't want me to scratch the concrete do you?"
Seriously though, it seems like there is a lot to consider, but I do think I have it figured out. Buy a set of the chains with ice cleats on them. When on the concrete, just turn 'em inside out (kinda like you do with underwear /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif after the second day) and when on ice, turn them right side out.
As to installing them, I have the obvious answer, just use the loader for that part.
Thanks guys for the insight on things I had not considered.

JB