Time for Chainsaw Chaps

[ruffdog]

Any chaps are better than no chaps.

 

[JRobyn]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/washing-chaps.59520/

I usually trust stuff on Arboristsite.

 

[Coyote machine]

Answers to some questions posed here: Washing chaps can make them less effective, (it's detailed in the owner's literature that comes with most brands of chaps), because the safety is in the fibers in the chaps getting caught up in the chain's teeth, and thus stopping the 88 feet /second travel speed of the chain* from doing damage like the op experienced. When washed the fibers tend to mat down vs. being fluffier and the result is less effectiveness. Same with if they get real dirty or greasy/oily.

I noted a number of people in this thread said their accidents or close calls with chainsaw chains occurred when they were tired or too tired.
This is worth paying very close attention to. Using a chain brake when starting, changing location, or position, etc. is a very good, 'best practice' detail that can help prevent serious injuries from chainsaws.

Also, taking frequent breaks in one's work to cool off, drink water to keep hydrated. etc. can keep one's 'situational awareness' at a maximum.
I also try to never work alone with a chainsaw, even for a 'few quick cuts'.
Think about how a chainsaw functions. It is designed to make mincemeat out of wood at a very rapid pace. It turns wood into saw chips instantaneously and thus treats skin and bone the exact same way. It does not discern the difference between wood and flesh.
Because of the type of spacing of chain teeth they cut skin by ripping it to pieces which means that one's chances of bleeding out before making it to the ER are also increased, and that doesn't even take into account the shock factor.

As the OP said, he didn't even know he had cut his knee until he saw the blood.
So, knowing everything one can about how one's saw and it's chain function, knowing best practice handling of the saw, wearing ALL recommended safety gear WHENEVER using a saw, all reduce the likelihood of a catastrophic incident.

Technically, the chainsaw chain should come to a rapid halt on it's own within a few seconds of the trigger being released. If it does not, or continues to run around the bar, then the saw is out of adjustment and needs to be serviced before further use.

One way to stop the chain even faster, aside from applying the chain brake, is to purposefully touch the bar/chain to a piece of wood within easy reach of the saw, using all the necessary precautions against kickback/rollback, etc.

Here's the facts Jack:
From Google inquiry as to speed of a chainsaw's chain~

"The piston ring speed on the average chainsaw travels 2,500 surface feet per minute. A chain slides across the surface of the sawbar rail at around 5000 feet per minute. The chain is moving at 55 to 60 m.p.h. or a mile per minute ( 88 feet per second* ).

One last thing; anyone considering the cost of chaps should seriously consider the cost of a visit to the ER to triage their torn knee, leg, calf, etc. Essentially NO comparison, IMHO.

Here's to the OP~ Sorry for your unfortunate loss to your saw's chain. Thankfully it wasn't worse. Get well soon and be safe in future.:thumbsup:

 

[motownbrowne]

Answers to some questions posed here: Washing chaps can make them less effective, (it's detailed in the owner's literature that comes with most brands of chaps), because the safety is in the fibers in the chaps getting caught up in the chain's teeth, and thus stopping the 88 feet /second travel speed of the chain* from doing damage like the op experienced. When washed the fibers tend to mat down vs. being fluffier and the result is less effectiveness. Same with if they get real dirty or greasy/oily.

I know what you're saying, but chaps and other protective garments to sometimes require cleaning. As you mention, oil will reduce the fluffiness of the protective layers and make them less effective. I'm not saying you should wash them every weekend, but if they're dirty, wash them. Stihl says their chaps are machine washable (with limitations): Checklist: Washing instructions for personal protective equipment | STIHL Blog

Labonville and the USFS have a different method:Chap Specifications & Care

 

[Coyote machine]

I know what you're saying, but chaps and other protective garments to sometimes require cleaning. As you mention, oil will reduce the fluffiness of the protective layers and make them less effective. I'm not saying you should wash them every weekend, but if they're dirty, wash them. Stihl says their chaps are machine washable (with limitations): Checklist: Washing instructions for personal protective equipment | STIHL Blog

Labonville and the USFS have a different method:Chap Specifications & Care

Ah, yes AND NO! They're outdoor work protective gear and as such better to have them somewhat 'dirty' than less effective.
More importantly, careful when you say to those here to 'wash them'. I mention this because what you linked to, in particular, the Labonville care and use statement, highlights in RED INK to:
NEVER MACHINE WASH OR DRY ANY Kevlar or nylon based safety clothing. AND to NEVER use any CHLORINE BASED BLEACH.

 

[houser52]

I've cut firewood and cleared brush for over 30 years and have never had an accident but I finally wised up and bought some Labonville chaps and a Husqvarna helmet with a fine mesh face screen a few months ago.

The chaps are hot but I try to avoid running the saw when it's hot anyway. Too much poison ivy slapping at me when it's in full summer foliage.

"Are there chaps that are cooler in hot weather?"

With chaps, I find I can wear shorts and still feel safe.
Some may say shorts and chainsaws aren't a good mix, but beats wearing pants without chaps. Though pants may help with briars, ticks, & sawdust, they provide a false sense of security.

..if you're still too hot, you can wear a**-less chaps like they do in the Gay Pride Parades. :laughing:

Hahaha. That hit as funny as he**.

 

[oosik]

Well, between building a log cabin in Alaska and cutting firewood - I've been lucky for over 40 some years. I had my CS grab the front of my Deluth Trading canvas pants once - balled up and stopped the saw. Only a slight scratch on my leg - maybe I've been VERY lucky.

I'm done cutting, thinning & chipping for the year - so I guess I should look into getting a pair chaps. I don't cut firewood any more and all my thinning is done in the spring and in the early morning, at that. I'm always done by 10 AM - back cleaning up and drinking ice tea. Fortunately, no neighbors to hear me if I start up at 6 AM. I tried working in shorts one day - the underbrush scratches the snot out of my legs. I always wear long pants and a long sleeved shirt.

 

[FatTire]

My respect for the saw grows over time. When I was in my 20's I cut wood with ear muffs and safety glasses. In my 30's I started using chaps. In my 40's I started using steel toe boots. Five years ago (50's) I purchased helmet with face shield, and first pair of kevlar gloves. This year, following an accident where a friend lost a finger to a table saw (she was alone -- could have been worse), I am considering a two-way radio in case my cutting partner/wife is out of shouting range. (Chest holster for radio???) Maybe my increasing awareness will offset my slower reaction time/ lower strength as I age?

 

[scodemike]

Question, now that I'm almost healed re; chaps. I am looking at the Forester wrap around style chap, but they have 3 styles. One has the straps on the back, another wraps around and they use Velcro and the last one has a zipper and velcro over that.

I kind of like the zipper with the velcro overlay. What are your thought's? Forester Chain saw Chaps - Apron, Wrap Around, Zip Chaps - Chainsaw Pants