This Old Barn

   / This Old Barn
  • Thread Starter
#41  
So I decided to leave it for a couple days. When I came back, I tried again and the wrench turned easily -- for about 3/4 turn -- then nothing doing. So I came back a few days later, and I repeated the process. Over about a year and a half I turned it a little bit every few days, over and over until I had lifted the beam 6 or 8 inches and it looked level and straight. I'm still not sure if it's exactly straight or level, all I have is a 4' level and the wood is rough enough that it's hard to tell. But when I stand back and eyeball it against the top of the foundation it looks pretty good.

Would some clear tubing work to make a water level?

Measuring level over distance is a problem that I have yet to solve.

I was actually messing around with a water level a few weeks ago. Maybe I'm just an idiot but I couldn't get it to work. To reach from one corner of the barn to the other I needed 50+ feet of tubing, and I had a really hard time filling the tubing with water. Once I got it filled I found that the tubing offered significant resistance to the flow of water, so it took a while for the level to stabilize. The bucket won't fit at the height of the beam I was trying to level, so I had to mark the level and measure down. The whole thing was so imprecise I just didn't have confidence I was getting accuracy better than about a quarter or even half an inch. At that level of accuracy it just didn't seem worth the hassle.

I also have a laser level that I've been using, it wasn't expensive but not cheap either, I think I paid about $150 for it. It has a bubble level and sits on a tripod. I don't have faith that it gets me within acceptable accuracy either. What it is good for is getting straight lines. The way I use is I set it up on the tripod at one end of the beam, and measure the height off of the beam of the laser. At the other end I make a mark on the wall the same height off the beam. Then I go along the beam and measure the height of the laser. This won't get me level but it will get me straight.

I thought about just using a chalk line but it seems it would sag over 30' no matter how tight I pulled it.

I would like to hear people's suggestions. Although for the most part I have to play the hand I'm dealt.
 
   / This Old Barn #46  
They had very little in the way of what we could now call necessities! They were living in New England in the winter, heating with wood. They were producing milk with no running water or electricity. In the winter they would milk in the dark with no electric light.

About 100 yards to the east of the barn there is a pond. I have a neighbor who is 83 and farmed in the area his whole life. He believes the pond was hand dug, for ice. This area didn't get electricity until the 1930's but people were in the commercial dairy business in the 1850's. For decades they kept their milk cool with ice that they cut in the winter.

Last summer my teenage son helped me put up a few hundred bales of hay. When we were done, I said to him, "How would you like it if every year you spent July and August putting up hay and January and February putting up ice?" He thought about it for a moment and said, "I bet you'd get really good at stacking things."

Hundred miles East of you we didn't get electricity until 1947.
I do remember the big day ......I was 7!
 
   / This Old Barn
  • Thread Starter
#47  
Hundred miles East of you we didn't get electricity until 1947.
I do remember the big day ......I was 7!
A hundred miles east of me is the Georges Bank, I'm in the southeast corner of the state. I can see Westport, Ma from my barn.
 
   / This Old Barn
  • Thread Starter
#48  
OK, I'm getting almost caught up now.

Once I got the beams all squared away, the next step was to work on the east bay of the barn. This was the milking parlor. The flooring was completely rotted from decades of manure, and the joists underneath were gone as well, I couldn't save a single one of them. So the next step was to put replacement joists in.

Here are two pictures you've already seen and one new one:
barn.jpg


The original joists were 3x7's on about 22" centers (it varies somewhat). They run from the east floor beam to the east sill. The sill is mortised to receive them and the ends of the joists are tenoned, the joists sit with their tops flush with the top of the sill.In the background of the middle picture you can see the sill and the mortises in it. The floor beam sits about 4 1/2" below the level of the sills and the joists are notched at that end. Along the top of the beam there was a piece of wood that functioned like a rim joist, holding the ends of the joists. I don't know what it's properly called but I'm going to call it a rim joist. It had to be replaced so the first step was to replace it.

When I went to measure the rim joist thing I found it was 4 1/2" inches at one end and 5 1/2" at the other, due to settling. That got me thinking I wouldn't be able just to rip a piece. The joists in the middle bay of the barn run perpendicular to the bay that I'm working on, or parallel to this rim joist, and I realized that there would be a jump in the floor if it wasn't at least close to the height of the first joist in that bay. So I cut two pieces of 2x6 to length, and tacked them to the stanchions. Then I did my best to scribe them to the first joist of the middle section. The floor is still on the middle section, so I had to go down to the basement and stand on a step-ladder. I made a little jig from pieces of 2x4 that allowed me to hold one end against the existing joist with a short level, and then scribe the other end against the jig. I marked at every stanchion, then used a straight edge to connect the marks. I took up the pieces and cut them with a circular saw, then put them back and nailed them to the stanchions.

Then it was time to work on the joists. The originals were 3x7, so I used doubled 2x8's. At the sill end they fit into a mortise, and at the beam end they rest on the beam and sit flush to the rim joist. First step was to measure the length from the bottom of the mortise to the rim joist, and cut them to length. The sill is 7" high and sits on the foundation, which is about 24" thick and made of fieldstone. The replacement joists are nominally 7 1/4" so they needed to be trimmed to clear the foundation, I took about 3/8" off of the last 24" to be sure. Then I measured the depth and width of the mortise and cut a tenon on the end of the replacement joist.

Fitting the tenons ended up being quite time-consuming. I'd measure and get close, and then try to fit them and adjust. Depending on how close the fit was I'd use smaller and smaller saws, and then a palm sander, to make incremental adjustments. A complication was that the top of foundation wasn't smooth, in parts there were stones sticking up. The original joists had been scribed around the stones and I did the same thing. Once I got one piece of the joist to fit in the mortise I would set it down on the beam at the other end and measure how much it stuck up above the rim joist and how far it sat on the beam. These were different for every joist. I'd cut a notch so that the top sat flush with the top of the rim joist. I would usually have to make a few adjustments to get it to sit flush and tight.

Once one piece of the pair of joists was cut I used it as a template to cut the other piece. Then there would be more fitting as I had to get the width of the tenon so it fit in the mortise. Once everything fit I nailed through the rim joist into the ends of the new joist pieces, and nailed the two pieces to each other. This process was pretty time-consuming, I figure I averaged about two hours per joist piece, or four hours per pair. The first one was the toughest as I had no place to sit, I had to do all of the fitting from a stepladder from below. Once the first one was in I put a piece of plywood on it, and as I've worked I've moved more sheets of plywood out to make a pretty good platform. But it's still hard. The joist pieces are heavy, and the 22" spacing means I have to reach pretty far from where I'm sitting and it's awkward. During the fitting process I have to lift the new joist pieces into place repeatedly, and my arms take a beating. One thing that I've found helps is to put a c-clamp on the middle of the piece so I have something to grab onto.

So far I have done seven of the fourteen joists. I figure I have about 28 hours left to go, so three and a half days, or more likely, about ten evenings.
 
   / This Old Barn
  • Thread Starter
#49  
For the replacement floor I'm going with Advantech (3/4" tongue and groove oriented strand board). I thought about doing planking to be faithful to the original, but it really doesn't make a very good floor and I do intend for this to be a working building when I'm done. Advantech takes paint and makes for a surface that is smooth and sweeps well. It can also be the subfloor if I decide to finish further.

I was worried that the floor might be bouncy or sag, I didn't know if the Advantech could span 22" and 2x8's seemed kind of small for the span. As I've worked I've put down pieces of Advantech, and I'm pleased to report it feels very solid underfoot.
 
   / This Old Barn #50  
:thumbsup: Good Thread. Good pictures.
 

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