The WICKED Root & Debris GRAPPLE!!!!!!!

[IslandTractor]

When I noticed the other two pins missing last night, I was on the way back home and did not really look close at it. But I did notice on at least one of the round pins that hold the cylinder that the whole thing was loose enough to turn. So I think however I push in the haripin clips, the position will change as the round pin turns over time. I'll be back out there in a few days maybe (weather permitting) and will look at the situation closer. Still like the elegant idea of a clip, though. If anyone gets a chance to measure the bottom of the groove where the hairpin clip goes through, please let me know and I'll look for some source of the clips online.

I think Harbor Freight sells a box of ?25 or 50 e clips of different sizes. Cheap money.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

We're gonna ship 4 R-Pins and 4 cotter pins out today. The cotter pins will definitely stay put.

This is how they've been:


The guys will start pushing the R-pins all the way through. This way is much harder to remove and shouldn't go anywhere.
For added security, you could even wrap the end of the R-pin with tape or wire it shut.

 

[IslandTractor]

We're gonna ship 4 R-Pins and 4 cotter pins out today. The cotter pins will definitely stay put.

This is how they've been:
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=340402"/>

The guys will start pushing the R-pins all the way through. This way is much harder to remove and shouldn't go anywhere.
For added security, you could even wrap the end of the R-pin with tape or wire it shut.
<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=340403"/>

Again, consider E clips. There is nothing for brush to snag. No meat hooks as with cotter pins. Come off and put on with either screwdriver tip or pliers. Easy peazy.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

No problem.
It wouldn't hurt for those that already have one to push their pins all the way through.

 

[94BULLITT]

IDK if a lynch pin would stay.

Sent from my Samsung SPH-L710 using TractorByNet

 

[EverythingAttachments]

IDK if a lynch pin would stay.

Sent from my Samsung SPH-L710 using TractorByNet

It will till it falls out!!

Over the years, I've witnessed countless numbers of nails stuck through and bent to hold those pins on.

 

[TomSeller]

Seems a properly sized bolt and locknut application to me. Like has been mentioned, anything with a loop or something sticking out is just something for brush to catch on.

 

[BGigHarbor]

Seems a properly sized bolt and locknut application to me. Like has been mentioned, anything with a loop or something sticking out is just something for brush to catch on.

clip at .015 inches pretty much fills hole. i.e. hole is too small for bolt.

 

[TomSeller]

clip at .015 inches pretty much fills hole. i.e. hole is too small for bolt.

Understand, I was talking about the factory setup. I think they should have configured it different. I'd just do a simple cotter key given what you have, bend it around real good so it doesn't catch and be on my way. Happy grappling.

 

[94BULLITT]

It will till it falls out!!

Over the years, I've witnessed countless numbers of nails stuck through and bent to hold those pins on.

Snap rings may be the best thing.

 

[IslandTractor]

Snap rings may be the best thing.

Same as e clips I believe.

 

[OrangeAgain]

We're gonna ship 4 R-Pins and 4 cotter pins out today. The cotter pins will definitely stay put.

This is how they've been:
View attachment 340402

The guys will start pushing the R-pins all the way through. This way is much harder to remove and shouldn't go anywhere.
For added security, you could even wrap the end of the R-pin with tape or wire it shut.
View attachment 340403

I was loosing R-pins that secured the scarifying shanks on a Befco grading scraper and did the same thing. I.E. Pushed them all the way through. Haven't lost any since.

 

[TomSeller]

It still seems odd to me that pins made for easy removal are used at connecting points where the pivots are never (or seldom) going to be taken apart. I tie my shoes with a shoestring knot. I don't tie shoestring knots on something I will likely never take apart or don't want coming apart. Too much chance the ends will get caught and untie the knot. I know this is more of a subject for the manufacturer, I just have not seen hairpins on any semi-permanent pivots on any of my equipment.

 

[BGigHarbor]

It still seems odd to me that pins made for easy removal are used at connecting points where the pivots are never (or seldom) going to be taken apart. I tie my shoes with a shoestring knot. I don't tie shoestring knots on something I will likely never take apart or don't want coming apart. Too much chance the ends will get caught and untie the knot. I know this is more of a subject for the manufacturer, I just have not seen hairpins on any semi-permanent pivots on any of my equipment.

I'll have to look at it again when I am back out there, but my first thought is that if I ever have to remove the cylinder I might wish the cylinder pin was the other way around here. I really hate breaking loose doped threads loose if I don't have to.

I could be wrong, just going by the pic I took when I first noticed the pin backing out. Or maybe that is an e clip that can be removed with e pliers.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

I'll have to look at it again when I am back out there, but my first thought is that if I ever have to remove the cylinder I might wish the cylinder pin was the other way around here. I really hate breaking loose doped threads loose if I don't have to.

I could be wrong, just going by the pic I took when I first noticed the pin backing out. Or maybe that is an e clip that can be removed with e pliers.

View attachment 340597

They must have installed that pin backwards by mistake. I checked the ones on hand and they're the opposite direction.

 

[BGigHarbor]

They must have installed that pin backwards by mistake. I checked the ones on hand and they're the opposite direction.

That was my guess actually. And by coincidence that was the cylinder plug that was leaking (trivial fix, though).

I shouldn't have to take off that cylinder ever, but I'd like to know exactly what pipe dope you use on those pipe fittings so I can have some on hand for emergencies (property is a bit remote)?



Thanks, Bill

 

[BGigHarbor]

Here's an off the wall thought I had this last weekend while I was gathering up some flattish vines and such on pretty soft soil:

If it were practical (and it isn't probably) I thought it would be interesting to have bolt on tips for the bottom of the grapple. To allow me to keep the grapple bottom more level with the ground while scooping up stuff.

With branches and such (like Ted's vids) the current angle on the end of the grapple bottom works fine, but for lower stuff and soft soil I would have liked to be able to sort of slide along the surface like a pitchfork.

Like wedge shapped tip extensions that came more to a "point" than the current "tips"......

The current tips look like they are optimized for pulling brush out of a pile backwards with the angle and the stepped teeth.

I realize some root grapples are more pointy at the leading edge, but to make a single grapple more general purpose seems interesting.

 

[IslandTractor]

Here's an off the wall thought I had this last weekend while I was gathering up some flattish vines and such on pretty soft soil:

If it were practical (and it isn't probably) I thought it would be interesting to have bolt on tips for the bottom of the grapple. To allow me to keep the grapple bottom more level with the ground while scooping up stuff.

With branches and such (like Ted's vids) the current angle on the end of the grapple bottom works fine, but for lower stuff and soft soil I would have liked to be able to sort of slide along the surface like a pitchfork.

Like tip extensions that came more to a "point" than the current "tips"......

I realize some root grapples are more pointy at the leading edge, but to make a single grapple more general purpose seems interesting.

Why not just fabricate a skid plate which you could bolt on to the bottom? 3/16 or 10gauge sheet would do. Could either be welded up or just bolted to brackets that fit over the bottom tines.

 

[BGigHarbor]

Why not just fabricate a skid plate which you could bolt on to the bottom? 3/16 or 10gauge sheet would do. Could either be welded up or just bolted to brackets that fit over the bottom tines.

That sounds better than teeth, I agree. But I am thinking it would need to have something on the top of the leading edge to guide vines, etc into the grapple.

The problem to solve is not actually holding the vines and soft materials as much as getting them into the grapple as you drive forward. In fact it was very helpful the dirt was falling out the bottom as I grabbed loads.

Maybe something with a V in crosssection.

 

[IslandTractor]

That sounds better than teeth, I agree. But I am thinking it would need to have something on the top of the leading edge to guide vines, etc into the grapple.

The problem to solve is not actually holding the vines and soft materials as much as getting them into the grapple as you drive forward. In fact it was very helpful the dirt was falling out the bottom as I grabbed loads.

Maybe something with a V in crosssection.

I hear you. Why not just bend a 24x50?piece of 1/8 or 3/16 along the long axis so it fits over the time tips? Attach via tabs to the outside tines. Might be a trick to put such an acute angle bend in but a
sheet metal shop could do it.