Tell me what fertilizer I need

[1930]

I know alot of you guys have spent your lives growing things.

I have 211 Holly trees that Ive planted in the ground on my property in Dunnellon. They will supposedly reach 25-30 feet height someday. At this point the tallest tree is approx 1 foot tall. Supposedly under the right conditions they can grow 2-3 feet per year, if they were 6-8 feet tall when I start building in a few years ( feb 2023 ) Id be very happy.

I have another 200 + here at the house ( in pots ) that I plan on nurturing more closely and then transplanting this fall.

I also have 50 Shumard Oak trees at the house, ( in pots ) supposedly they can have the same growth rate as the Holly trees under ideal/correct conditions. They average maybe 3-4 feet tall at this point and have pencil like trunks.

What can I do as far as fertilizer to give these plants a boost? I need a specific item to look for and purchase. Ive been told 20-20-20 but Ive also been told that this will burn the roots, Ive been told dont put anything directly at the base of the trunk, Ive also been told it matters not, Ive been told to only use water soluble for fastest results....told many different things.

Not looking to experiment if possible. Surely some of you guys can tell me what would work best ?

The 211 trees on my property I am able to water once a week when I visit the property. I have a 275 gallon IBC tote full of water on my trailer, pulled by my truck and a portable gen to operate the pump.

The other trees at my current home I have no limits.

Thanks

 

[Jstpssng]

10-10-10 is a good standby and one of the easiest to get, around here at least.

 

[RalphVa]

Do not fertilize. Plant back with the soil you took out of the hole you're putting them in.

Then just put a couple inches of mulch or just leaves around the tree, but not up against the tree itself. The mulch will provide slow fertilization as the worms work on it.

Chemical fertilizers will just kill the soil. You'll be stuck with using them because otherwise the soil is DEAD. Why kill it to begin with?

Ralph

 

[3Ts]

First of all, you need to get a soil test done. The University of Florida will tell you how to take the soil sample, how to send it, where to send it, and will tell you what (if any) fertilizer you need and how much. This is really the only way you should be determining what to apply since you have many trees that you don't want to experiment on. Florida soils are different from the soils in the rest of the country so a soil test is better than us telling you what we think you should use. Once you get the test results, we can help from there.

Link to Florida soil test: Soil Testing - UF/IFAS Extension

 

[1930]

10-10-10 is a good standby and one of the easiest to get, around here at least.

Cant multi quote for some reason

Ive heard 10 10 10 is as safe as can be

Im looking for safe steroids

 

[1930]

Do not fertilize. Plant back with the soil you took out of the hole you're putting them in.

Then just put a couple inches of mulch or just leaves around the tree, but not up against the tree itself. The mulch will provide slow fertilization as the worms work on it.

Chemical fertilizers will just kill the soil. You'll be stuck with using them because otherwise the soil is DEAD. Why kill it to begin with?

Ralph

I did do this with the 211 plants, Ill have to post a pict. All of them have rings of mulch around them but Ive been told that my mulch ( because its mostly pine and a few oak trees ) is useless for providing any real benefits.

 

[1930]

First of all, you need to get a soil test done. The University of Florida will tell you how to take the soil sample, how to send it, where to send it, and will tell you what (if any) fertilizer you need and how much. This is really the only way you should be determining what to apply since you have many trees that you don't want to experiment on. Florida soils are different from the soils in the rest of the country so a soil test is better than us telling you what we think you should use. Once you get the test results, we can help from there.

Link to Florida soil test: Soil Testing - UF/IFAS Extension

Your right, thanks for reminding me. I will get this done and report the results. In the meantime I will just continue watering

EDIT: Im sure now that I think of it that because of all the media frenzy getting the testing kit will not be possible right now. Should have got this done months ago

 

[stuckmotor]

Cant multi quote for some reason

Ive heard 10 10 10 is as safe as can be

Im looking for safe steroids

I've never been able to multi quote. Maybe someone will tell us how or maybe the problem is in my tiny tablet.

 

[Jstpssng]

I've never been able to multi quote. Maybe someone will tell us how or maybe the problem is in my tiny tablet.

For some reason it isn't working tonight. Usually, on each post you want to cite you would click on the little icon to the right of "Reply with quote", then click on that same "reply with quote".

 

[K5lwq]

Your right, thanks for reminding me. I will get this done and report the results. In the meantime I will just continue watering

Pretty sure it will come back saying you need everything but more sand.

I would mix some cow manure in with the soil you have then water it in good. When I use to plant trees and plants in Florida, I always did this before putting the plant in the hole. Then side dress it with this mixture once or twice a year.

If you do decide to use fertilizer, pick one with all the trace elements. But then PH becomes more important in order for the plants to absorb the nutrients.

 

[1930]

Pretty sure it will come back saying you need everything but more sand.

I would mix some cow manure in with the soil you have then water it in good. When I use to plant trees and plants in Florida, I always did this before putting the plant in the hole. Then side dress it with this mixture once or twice a year.

If you do decide to use fertilizer, pick one with all the trace elements. But then PH becomes more important in order for the plants to absorb the nutrients.

Im sure manure cant hurt, buying it by the bag at the local store will be expensive. Dont know anyone in the area though

 

[Jstpssng]

Im sure manure cant hurt, buying it by the bag at the local store will be expensive. Dont know anyone in the area though

Try a landscape supply place. I don't know about Florida but up here they sell compost and mulch by the yard; either delivered or loaded onto your vehicle. Keep in mind though that a yard can weigh over a ton, depending on how wet it is.

 

[1930]

Thanks, worth looking into

 

[3Ts]

There are a lot of horse farms in the Ocala area but the horse manure is full of weeds that are not digested, so if you use that, be sure to properly compost it first. I'm sure they'd love to have you haul it off.

 

[1930]

There are a lot of horse farms in the Ocala area but the horse manure is full of weeds that are not digested, so if you use that, be sure to properly compost it first. I'm sure they'd love to have you haul it off.

Stupid question and Im gonna show my ignorance but what do you mean by this ............be sure to properly compost it first

 

[3Ts]

Stupid question and Im gonna show my ignorance but what do you mean by this ............be sure to properly compost it first

Manure was mentioned in an earlier post. Cow manure is typically what is available at the box stores in bags for single digit plant quantities. For 100's of plants, you'll need manure in bulk quantities. Bags of cow manure is not going to be practical. Cow manure in bulk i've found to be difficult to get, but horse manure is easy to get. Cows digest what they eat several times and as a result the plant seeds are killed and their manure does not generate weeds where it is applied. (It may help grow what is already there.) Horses have a different digestive system and seeds can pass thru them without killing the seed, so when horse manure is added to a garden you're adding all those weed seeds as well that will sprout. However, the compost process raises the temperature of the compost pile high enough to kill the seeds, so the composted horse manure can be applied without the problem with the weed seeds sprouting.

P.S. Chicken manure is high in nitrogen and will damage the plants if applied directly. So, same process - compost it first.

 

[sodamo]

You could do your own soil test for ph and what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DI845/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[1930]

Manure was mentioned in an earlier post. Cow manure is typically what is available at the box stores in bags for single digit plant quantities. For 100's of plants, you'll need manure in bulk quantities. Bags of cow manure is not going to be practical. Cow manure in bulk i've found to be difficult to get, but horse manure is easy to get. Cows digest what they eat several times and as a result the plant seeds are killed and their manure does not generate weeds where it is applied. (It may help grow what is already there.) Horses have a different digestive system and seeds can pass thru them without killing the seed, so when horse manure is added to a garden you're adding all those weed seeds as well that will sprout. However, the compost process raises the temperature of the compost pile high enough to kill the seeds, so the composted horse manure can be applied without the problem with the weed seeds sprouting.

P.S. Chicken manure is high in nitrogen and will damage the plants if applied directly. So, same process - compost it first.

Good explanation. Thanks

 

[1930]

You could do your own soil test for ph and what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DI845/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It may come to this. Im gonna call the extension office first in A/M

 

[Jstpssng]

Good explanation. Thanks

Yes, much better than the one I attempted, then deleted last night. Do you care about weeds around trees, for your purpose?