Telescoping stabilizer repair

[LD1]

Boy this could go in about a dozen forums. General repair, Kubota, welding, projects, snow removal, etc but here I guess will do.

My bota MX has the telescoping stabilizers. The old L3400 had the turnbuckles.

I know everyone raves about the telescoping ones. But I haven't liked them since day one. Seems there is never a hole that's just quite right and I still end up with an inch or two of slop at the implement.

For most people, probably not a problem using a 500 pound mower or a 350 pound blade. But I use my equipment and have heavy implements. A 1250# blade and a 1600# cutter...an inch or two of movement is alot of inertia. And things continue to get sloppier and more worn.

Well I was out plowing....and with an angled blade does put alot of stress on the stabilizers. Well when I got home....I had half of one hanging on the right side. No idea where the other half is. So....time for a fix.....and to address the slop with infinite adjustment.

I had my old toplink hanging on the wall since I made my hydraulic one. Time to sacrifice it.

After taking some careful measurements....started cutting and welding.

Was a fun 2hr shop project.

 

[RjCorazza]

Nice work! I'm not a fan of the newer style either. It's certainly quicker to adjust, but rarely just how I want it.
I also don't care for the leveling adjustment, which is threaded rod, but not as easy to use as the older crank style I was used to.

 

[npalen]

I noticed the extra holes near the front end of the new stabilizer link and wondering what they are used for.

 

[LD1]

I noticed the extra holes near the front end of the new stabilizer link and wondering what they are used for.

The three holes on the ROPS just above where the stabilizer is hooked?

They arent for the stabilizer. The stabilizer can ONLY go in the hole made for it. Which is inline with where the lower arms pin to the tractor. IF the stabilizer hole is above or below....fore or aft....them as the 3PH raises and lowers they would be trying to pivot around different points. And the stabilizer will either become loose or get tight, bind, and likely break something.

The holes you refer to are where a backhoe subframe would bolt to.

 

[thclimer]

Very nice!

Now you are making me want to get a welder.

 

[npalen]

The three holes on the ROPS just above where the stabilizer is hooked?

They arent for the stabilizer. The stabilizer can ONLY go in the hole made for it. Which is inline with where the lower arms pin to the tractor. IF the stabilizer hole is above or below....fore or aft....them as the 3PH raises and lowers they would be trying to pivot around different points. And the stabilizer will either become loose or get tight, bind, and likely break something.

The holes you refer to are where a backhoe subframe would bolt to.

It makes sense that one wants the pivot holes for the lower links and the stabilizers to be axially aligned. But I've had folks tell me that there needs to be a slight misalignment that will cause the links to "tighten" when the 3PH is raised to eliminate side sway for transport. Sure wouldn't want them to be tight in the down position, however, in that scenario. I was just curious what the extra holes were for.

 

[4570Man]

That’s a good repair. The one problem I have encountered with those is the arms really need to be pulled to the inside not the outside which those do. If you have quality implements with double ears that’s not a problem but if you’re using the cheaper implements with just the exposed pin it puts all the force against the retaining pin and bends it.

 

[workinonit]

That's where a QH is a good solution.

 

[LD1]

That’s a good repair. The one problem I have encountered with those is the arms really need to be pulled to the inside not the outside which those do. If you have quality implements with double ears that’s not a problem but if you’re using the cheaper implements with just the exposed pin it puts all the force against the retaining pin and bends it.

Using a quick hitch 95% of the time so no concern there

 

[LD1]

It makes sense that one wants the pivot holes for the lower links and the stabilizers to be axially aligned. But I've had folks tell me that there needs to be a slight misalignment that will cause the links to "tighten" when the 3PH is raised to eliminate side sway for transport. Sure wouldn't want them to be tight in the down position, however, in that scenario. I was just curious what the extra holes were for.

Some older tractors were setup this way....but wasn't user adjustable

Think like the JD tractors that had sway blocks. Forced the arms tighter when raised.

But it's a recipe for disaster if there was a misalignment and tightened when lowered.

For me, with either a rear blade or a bush hog, or rear pallet forks, or my trailer mover....I don't want any slop at any position.

Just a little slop....banging side to side....turns into more and more slop until something breaks

 

[jyoutz]

Nice work! I'm not a fan of the newer style either. It's certainly quicker to adjust, but rarely just how I want it.
I also don't care for the leveling adjustment, which is threaded rod, but not as easy to use as the older crank style I was used to.

I never use the leveling rod because the only implement I tilt is the rear blade, and it has a tilt adjustment on the blade.

 

[npalen]

havein trouble keeping my Stabilizers tight

My stabilizers tight they keep getting looser as i use my RK they will not stay tight

www.tractorbynet.com

Interesting post #6.

 

[oosik]

I have telescoping stabilizers on my M6040. I run a 1050# Rhino rear blade. My M6040 is "dressed" heavy. Without the rear blade - it weighs 9000+ pounds. For sure - the Rhino rear blade and its weight is all I would want on my tractor.

Just pondering - I wonder if your 1250# rear blade might be a tad heavy for the MX5100.

 

[LD1]

I have telescoping stabilizers on my M6040. I run a 1050# Rhino rear blade. My M6040 is "dressed" heavy. Without the rear blade - it weighs 9000+ pounds. For sure - the Rhino rear blade and its weight is all I would want on my tractor.

Just pondering - I wonder if your 1250# rear blade might be a tad heavy for the MX5100.

Nope. I wouldnt want it any lighter.

I can always take smaller bites, or feather the controls. But nothing is more frustrating than a cheap light blade that refuses to cut whatever material you are trying to work with.

Its not just the blade either, its my 1600# cutter. And I mow ~400+ acres in total per year comprised of small 4-5 acre jobs. So thats alot of turning. Even an inch or two of play at the back of the hog is alot of inertia for the little pins in the stabilizers.

Fact of the matter is....as handy and quick as the telescoping stabilizers are...it is nearly impossible to get all the slop out like with turnbuckles. And the constant hammering of an implement from side to side when turning or working the implement.....continues to wear things out and get worse. Its a snowball effect.

The quick hitch is on the tractor 99% of the time. The ONLY times it comes off is once a year when I put on a 3-bottom plow to plow 3 acres, or during maple syrup season when I put forks on the back for hauling IBC totes. When the quick hitch is on....I want ZERO slop. And I could NEVER attain that with the telescoping stabilizers, and have been meaning to address it for awhile now. The fact that I lost half a stabilizer prompted me to fix it and quit procrastinating.

 

[jyoutz]

Nope. I wouldnt want it any lighter.

I can always take smaller bites, or feather the controls. But nothing is more frustrating than a cheap light blade that refuses to cut whatever material you are trying to work with.

Its not just the blade either, its my 1600# cutter. And I mow ~400+ acres in total per year comprised of small 4-5 acre jobs. So thats alot of turning. Even an inch or two of play at the back of the hog is alot of inertia for the little pins in the stabilizers.

Fact of the matter is....as handy and quick as the telescoping stabilizers are...it is nearly impossible to get all the slop out like with turnbuckles. And the constant hammering of an implement from side to side when turning or working the implement.....continues to wear things out and get worse. Its a snowball effect.

The quick hitch is on the tractor 99% of the time. The ONLY times it comes off is once a year when I put on a 3-bottom plow to plow 3 acres, or during maple syrup season when I put forks on the back for hauling IBC totes. When the quick hitch is on....I want ZERO slop. And I could NEVER attain that with the telescoping stabilizers, and have been meaning to address it for awhile now. The fact that I lost half a stabilizer prompted me to fix it and quit procrastinating.

I use a 1000# 8’ Bison blade with my MX6000. It handles the blade beautifully. I don’t get much sway from the stabilizer pins. Maybe because my tractor is new and the stabilizer pins aren’t worn?

 

[LD1]

I use a 1000# 8’ Bison blade with my MX6000. It handles the blade beautifully. I don’t get much sway from the stabilizer pins. Maybe because my tractor is new and the stabilizer pins aren’t worn?

Possibly because its still new. And maybe the blade is just the perfect width to get a pin just right.

I always find I cant quite drop the pin that I want....and have to concede and go to the next looser hole. No the slop isnt much....but 1-2" of slop at the implement is enough inertia when making turns or uneven ground that you definitely feel the slop side to side.

This post wasnt about looking for suggestions, or questioning implements of choice, or how much slop is too much. IT was about my personal issues with the setup and how I fixed it incase others ever have had similar issues.

The convenience of telescoping stabilizers is moot when it wears a quick hitch 99% of the time

And yes, a heavy 8' blade is about perfect for the MX. My Frontier 2308 is probably very similar to your bison. And definitaly a good match for the MX platform, especially with loaded AG tires and wheel weights. (My tractor is also trimmed out heavy)

 

[LouNY]

I have noticed on my adjustable stabilizers that they seem to have a bit of a spring built into them.
What I do if an implements sway is bothering me, is to unpin both sides, get the implement were I want it and
put a pin in then push it back and forth and if needed I'll repin the first side then go around and push the implement to the
max travel and then pin that side, very little sway after that.

 

[5030]

I do the same and I've never had any stabilizer arm issue with either of my M9000's., but they are pretty stout to begin with and...

When I run my Landpride 3 point 8 foot wide mount chopper, I always drop the stabilizer pins in the slotted slots on the stabilizer arms because you want the chopper to move laterally side to side when using it and cornering anyway. That reduces the side loading on the arms and 3 point assembly quite a bit, especially if the tailwheel digs in at all. Now my pull behind Landpride batwing don't require anything but the drawbar to attach.

Never had issue one with the stabilizer arms or the bevel crank box. I had issues in the past with the chain stabilizer stays breaking however.

The rear on my M9's appears to be about twice as 'beefy' as the OP's rear.

 

[LD1]

The rear on my M9's appears to be about twice as 'beefy' as the OP's rear.

I would certainly hope.
3800# tractor vs 6200#
51hp vs 92hp
2800lb rear lift vs 5500lb

 

[oosik]

Hmmm ..... forty plus years maintaining my mile long driveway and all other stuff around the 80.. I have NEVER run with my stabilizer bars at zero slop. I ALWAYS have had an inch or so of movement - left/right of dead center.

Luck - maybe. But for over forty years - I think not. However - it's not my intention to change ANYBODIES way of doing things. Just be safe and do "it" the way that works best for you.