i am expecting my new 3520 and loader in the morning. being my first tractor i am curious about maintenance. i know what the manual says but was looking for tips and suggestions. not only is this ny first diesel but my first turbo engine. also curious about maint. for the loader and bushhog. LX5 bushhog and 300CX loader. thanks.
teach me about basic tractor maintenance
- Thread starter jmt1271
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i am expecting my new 3520 and loader in the morning. being my first tractor i am curious about maintenance. i know what the manual says but was looking for tips and suggestions. not only is this ny first diesel but my first turbo engine. also curious about maint. for the loader and bushhog. LX5 bushhog and 300CX loader. thanks.
After around 50 hours, change your engine oil ( use 15W-40) and filter. After that, do this and grease non-loader fittings once a year or 100 hours. Grease all your loader fittings every 10-20 hours. Fuel filter and air filter change @ 400 hrs, maybe less for air filter in dusty conditions. Keep radiator screen clean (check daily along with engine oil level) and add diesel conditioner to all your fuel (takes care of water and injector clogging.) Change the coolant every 2 years. Rear end and hydraulic fluid can easily go 5 years under normal operating conditions. My tractors have always given me 7000
or more trouble-free hours following these simple procedures.
or more trouble-free hours following these simple procedures.
After around 50 hours, change your engine oil ( use 15W-40) and filter. After that, do this and grease non-loader fittings once a year or 100 hours. Grease all your loader fittings every 10-20 hours. Fuel filter and air filter change @ 400 hrs, maybe less for air filter in dusty conditions. Keep radiator screen clean (check daily along with engine oil level) and add diesel conditioner to all your fuel (takes care of water and injector clogging.) Change the coolant every 2 years. Rear end and hydraulic fluid can easily go 5 years under normal operating conditions. My tractors have always given me 7000
or more trouble-free hours following these simple procedures.
or more trouble-free hours following these simple procedures.
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,902
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
For a turbo engine, I'd strongly recommend going to synthetic oil. It'll take the heat of the turbo a lot better.
The manual for my 4010 says 5w-30. This is what I use. Plan to change it every 100 hours. (Did at 13 and 113.) If your manual, for some reason, recommends 40w. I'd use the lightest front end weight you can get, 0w or 5w-40. It'll ALWAYS be heavier at startup, even 0w and even on the hottest afternoon in the middle of the summer. A lighter front end weight oil will get circulating A LOT quicker and protect your valve gear at start when it gets the most wear.
Ralph
The manual for my 4010 says 5w-30. This is what I use. Plan to change it every 100 hours. (Did at 13 and 113.) If your manual, for some reason, recommends 40w. I'd use the lightest front end weight you can get, 0w or 5w-40. It'll ALWAYS be heavier at startup, even 0w and even on the hottest afternoon in the middle of the summer. A lighter front end weight oil will get circulating A LOT quicker and protect your valve gear at start when it gets the most wear.
Ralph
RalphVa
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 7,902
- Location
- Charlottesville, VA, USA
- Tractor
- JD 2025R, previously Gravely 5650 & JD 4010 & JD 1025R
For a turbo engine, I'd strongly recommend going to synthetic oil. It'll take the heat of the turbo a lot better.
The manual for my 4010 says 5w-30. This is what I use. Plan to change it every 100 hours. (Did at 13 and 113.) If your manual, for some reason, recommends 40w. I'd use the lightest front end weight you can get, 0w or 5w-40. It'll ALWAYS be heavier at startup, even 0w and even on the hottest afternoon in the middle of the summer. A lighter front end weight oil will get circulating A LOT quicker and protect your valve gear at start when it gets the most wear.
Ralph
The manual for my 4010 says 5w-30. This is what I use. Plan to change it every 100 hours. (Did at 13 and 113.) If your manual, for some reason, recommends 40w. I'd use the lightest front end weight you can get, 0w or 5w-40. It'll ALWAYS be heavier at startup, even 0w and even on the hottest afternoon in the middle of the summer. A lighter front end weight oil will get circulating A LOT quicker and protect your valve gear at start when it gets the most wear.
Ralph
You may not have to worry about fuel gelling in extreme cold, but niether do folks up north unless they use a summer blend. You do however have to worry about injectors clogging and water in the fuel and these are the problems that conditioner eliminates north or south. It is relatively inexpensive and cheap insurance against costly maintenance down the road.
You may not have to worry about fuel gelling in extreme cold, but niether do folks up north unless they use a summer blend. You do however have to worry about injectors clogging and water in the fuel and these are the problems that conditioner eliminates north or south. It is relatively inexpensive and cheap insurance against costly maintenance down the road.
I agree about running synthetic... but I'd wait till your through a break-in period before switching. If you'd run a 15w40 conventional use a 5w40 synthetic, and make sure it meets the proper classification standard.
No matter what oil you run... give your turbo ~1 minute to cool down after heavy use before shutting the tractor down.
Be liberal with greasing zerts.
No matter what oil you run... give your turbo ~1 minute to cool down after heavy use before shutting the tractor down.
Be liberal with greasing zerts.
I agree about running synthetic... but I'd wait till your through a break-in period before switching. If you'd run a 15w40 conventional use a 5w40 synthetic, and make sure it meets the proper classification standard.
No matter what oil you run... give your turbo ~1 minute to cool down after heavy use before shutting the tractor down.
Be liberal with greasing zerts.
No matter what oil you run... give your turbo ~1 minute to cool down after heavy use before shutting the tractor down.
Be liberal with greasing zerts.
breadtrk
Platinum Member
Let it idle and to cool the turbo for a couple minutes. Everything else do what the manual states with the recommended fluids. I agree that tractor brand name fluids are a rip off. Just buy that ever the viscosity and govt standard ratings are of what ever you find on sale. If it claims to be SD or whatever certified, it is and use that.
Do not change viscosity of anything, ever. If you follow the factory recommended maintenance schedule, synthetics are a waste of money. After the warranty is over feel free to follow any recommendations any old timer on a message boards tells you. Just remember that real engineers designed your tractor, their jobs are on the line, along with the company reputation.
This applies to tractors, trucks, cars, and airplanes. Anyone tells you different, ask to see their engineering degree and how many units are out there is the world with their name on it.
Do not change viscosity of anything, ever. If you follow the factory recommended maintenance schedule, synthetics are a waste of money. After the warranty is over feel free to follow any recommendations any old timer on a message boards tells you. Just remember that real engineers designed your tractor, their jobs are on the line, along with the company reputation.
This applies to tractors, trucks, cars, and airplanes. Anyone tells you different, ask to see their engineering degree and how many units are out there is the world with their name on it.
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