Taking the Welder Plunge

[2manyrocks]

Got to clean off the paint and rust with either a grinder or wire brush if you want a solid weld. Seems like 90% of welding is preparation. It would be easier to weld if you grind off those globs before you try it again.

It's not easy to weld thin material to thicker material. Got to focus your heat on the thick. Might help for you to tack the material in places and use short runs so you're not building up so much heat. Thinner rods might help.

Practice on something you can throw in the trash to get a feel for that welder before welding something you want to keep.

I can't could the number of my mistakes I've had to grind out. Wish I'd taken a welding class instead of trying to figure it out on my own. No telling how much grinding it would have saved me.

 

[mopacman]

pull the metal together so their is no gap. A gap is a lot harder to weld than two pices together..........Larry

 

[Kratos]

Thanks for taking a look. I am a weekend hobby farmer so will have to wait until then to grind and try again. I am using 6011 rod on my Lincoln 225 AC. I tried setting it from 90 to 110 with similar results. I had no problem with sticking, but the melting where I wanted it escaped me. I, also, remembered that welders can give you a sunburn. Where would you guys set the welder for this job?

 

[Birdhunter1]

On the front cover by the amp selector switch there should be a generic chart for settings based on rod, rod size and metal thickness. For the project you are doing yes I would say about 90 amps would do great. One other thing you may try is get some 6013 rods and try them, they are a bit easier to use than the 6011's if you are learning. The 6011's are better for deep penetration but for looks they are tougher to master than the 6013. The 6013 will do good for alot of welding such as welding carts, and things that are not high stress heavy load items. most of the welding you will do can be done with 6013 and 6011 rods, check Lincoln Electric's website for a better explanation of welding rods.

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto what birdhunter said... 90 or so amps is what I would use in that situation.. and for thinner metal where lots on penetrationis needed.. 6013 can give you a row of dimes look once you get a good hand. I sometimes 'face' my 6011 welds with 6013 after i touch it up with the rotary eraser ( grinder ).

And Kratos.. yes.. you can get a 'sunburn' from welding. I used to use an old thick denim jacket.. but have since upgraded to a nice welders jacket ( fire retardent, ) and has leather sleaves.

I also have some chaps and leggings w/ show top cover, and some extra leather arm chaps, if needed. That and some high gauntlet cuff welding gloves and a full face helmet + beanie and you are set. Watch yout neck too.. make sure your shirt / jacket / helmet covers it.. don't wanna be a redneck!

Soundguy

 

[curly]

This thread made me glad I bgt a used stick welder instead of one of those more expensive tig/mig/gas jobs. I found a book by Richard Finch, "How to weld **** near anything". It seemed to focus more on airplane welding and race care welding. Incredible welds that are life-or-death if the aren't 100%.

So I'm looking for another beginner book. Is, The Welders Handbook a better beginner book?

Thanks

 

[Bill_C]

...
So I'm looking for another beginner book. Is, The Welders Handbook a better beginner book?..

Try "Welding Skills" by R. T. Miller. Very thorough with step-by-step lessons, easy to understand and well illustrated.

 

[curly]

Try "Welding Skills" by R. T. Miller. Very thorough with step-by-step lessons, easy to understand and well illustrated.

Thanks, I found it for about $3.50 on ebay. It's on the way. I don't have anything to weld so I'm gonna be on the lookout for scraps to practice on. I have a bunch of railroad spikes...may start trying to stick some together.

 

[Bill_C]

I'm not sure what they use for railroad spikes now, they may be an alloy which may not weld as easily as mild steel...but I dunno.

Best bet is to find a scrap metal yard and buy some scrap steel. You'll need to clean the paint and rust off..that gave me an excuse to buy a Harbor Freight sandblasting cabinet...which will give me an excuse to buy a bigger air compressor..thus the Tool Acquisition Syndrome continues.

The cheaper option is a Harbor Freight 4-1/2 inch handheld grinder with a wire wheel, it's not as clean or quick as the sandblaster but it works. As stated earlier, ya gotta have clean steel for a good weld (well, 6011 will burn through some rust, but it's better to be clean).

 

[BarnStangz]

That lincoln 225ac is a whole lot more machine for less money than the little mig you are looking at.

Migs are nice.. when they are big an expensive.. Unfortunately.. the sad fact is.. when dealing with metal thickness issues.. a 250$ AC stick welder will weld as good or deeper on a single pass than a mig untill you get near a grand$$.. Add a few variables to that.. like bad metal prep due to location.. and .. say.. wind.. and.. uh.. it's starting to rain and i need to get this front axle welded up to get the tractor out of the mud hole.. and well... the mig just ain't the ticket for that environment or repair..... however the big ole' stick will do the job.. etc.

If you make alot of toy metal projects and weld sheet metal and 3/16 or 1/4 mainly.. then get a mig.. hard to beat those pretty welds that even an amature can pull off.

If you need to buzz up 1/2" metal on a budget... an AC stick welder is the ticket... if you got a hair more to spend.. get a stick welder that does AC/DC.. soemthing like 200+AC.. and 160-180 dc.. etc.

I have a hobart stickmateLX 235A AC .. I paid? 239$ at tractor supply.. it was a tad cheaper than the lincoln 225A AC at HD... for another 130$ I could have got the AC/DC unit.. however.. I do 'farm' welding.. and a big ole' AC stick welder does just fine for the limited welding I do..

Soundguy

I totally agree with what sound guy is saying here... I have an SP125 it's good for small stuff and 225 Buzz Box that I got at an auction for $90 bones! It works great! check your local auctions, I bet you can find some good deals on welders, there really isn't too much that can go wrong on a buzz box. Take a look at the site Auction Zip - Live Auction Locator - Find Auctions Anywhere! see what's around your area. Good luck!

Max

 

[Pete Milley]

Kratos:
Upon viewing your photos of the bushhog you are attempting to repair, I believe your method will fail for two reasons. The damaged sheetmetal has been stressed to breaking and the vibration inherent with this implement is relentless. As a welder/fabricator for many years, may I suggest an alternative method? Be sure under side of mower is clean of debris. First grind off all excess weld. Clamp the pieces together as close to original as possible. Cut some 1 1/2" angle iron to length. Place angle iron over joint and weld both edges of the angle iron along the length. Be sure both surfaces are free of paint and rust. This will add to the structural integrity and if done right will produce a finished look. Dried grass, wood and other debris will ignite instantly, so remember to ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher immediately available. If using water be extremely cautious of electricity (i.e. the welder). I hope this helps.

 

[Kratos]

Thanks for the advice. I have not had to use it since my attempt at repair, but may need to next week. I will see how it holds and if not, the angle iron idea is a great suggestion.

 

[tater digger]

Kratos:
Upon viewing your photos of the bushhog you are attempting to repair, I believe your method will fail for two reasons. The damaged sheetmetal has been stressed to breaking and the vibration inherent with this implement is relentless. As a welder/fabricator for many years, may I suggest an alternative method? Be sure under side of mower is clean of debris. First grind off all excess weld. Clamp the pieces together as close to original as possible. Cut some 1 1/2" angle iron to length. Place angle iron over joint and weld both edges of the angle iron along the length. Be sure both surfaces are free of paint and rust. This will add to the structural integrity and if done right will produce a finished look. Dried grass, wood and other debris will ignite instantly, so remember to ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher immediately available. If using water be extremely cautious of electricity (i.e. the welder). I hope this helps.

Angle iron could also be used in a more conservative manner by using a short piece of 1 1/2 x 1/4" angle vertically to tie in the sections of frame that was separated, weld only the heavy steel with 1/8" 6013 rod, starting with heavy "tacks" a few inches apart then weld between the tacks, pushing the rod into the weld so you feel the metal going in there the moving on. then get some 3/32 rods and turn down to 60 or 70 amps to weld that sheet.
With the sheet , you want to clamp it in the middle of the seam and tack on either side of the clamp by working a spot on the heavy plate, 1/8" away from where the sheet touches then a quick pass from the sheet to the first spot should connect the puddles. Tack every four inches using a hammer in between tacks to bring the metal together then in between every 2" , tack-hammer- tack- hammer 1" spaces tack- hammer etc. 1/2" etc. then you are ready to run a bead across the whole thing but first let it cool. This method works when you are trying to weld thick to thin because you never let the heat get out of hand. The heat you need to penetrate 1/4" plate will fry sheet, once you have added a little metal to the sheet in spots it will handle a continuous weld . Grinding the weld when you are done will show you how much of it is metal and how much is flux glass. Remember, clean metal welds , burning paint is highly toxic . Good luck

 

[cp1969]

Welcome to the forum, Mr. Digger!

That was a really good first post.