T330 Loader Control Valve

[Grut]

tymdealer(sorry don't know your name)
My dealer actually gave me the neutral post for the joystick and I am going to clean, pack, and readjust everything tonight. I am still working with my dealer for the economy replacement vavle--that would make any future problems (vent/water) non existant and a tractor that is usable not one I have to remove caps and grease all the time because of an engineering defect. It will also eliminate the low hoses and cables, simple is better most of the time.

I am estimating that all the ones you cleaned and lubed will have many future problems because the water will still settle to the bottom either from condensation or water getting in the vent. Hope you don't though.
Thanks

 

[Grut]

Here is the low down guys. I was at dealer today to get neutral post with ball for joystick to at least use my tractor till the problem is fixed. I came home and removed caps, float assembly, and springs. Cleaned up with PB Blaster and greased the snot out of. Dealer did take them apart and clean them up then grease them before reassembling this spring and sealing holes. Just shows you how much condensation builds up when mounted upside down. Well I was able to use the machine for now which is all I want, had to back fill the yard by house and will box blade tomorrow. I hope TYM pulls through and fixes this problem the correct way with replacing the valve setup, because I can't imagine the upkeep of this upside valve set up.
Time for a brew, Cheers!!

 

[Gregster613]

Hi Tymdealer,
Glad you chose to respond. My situation is similiar to Grut's; whenever I push my loader joystick completely down into the float position, it then sticks there! And, it's getting increasingly harder to pop it back out of float.
Thus, I do not use that feature any longer and I only have 105 hrs on my machine!!
I do understand about taking off caps, cleaning, & greasing and I don't have any problems with that. What I am trying to learn/find out about is.......a step-by-step process to follow so that I don't screw up an operating system that otherwise works just fine!!
I have zero heart-burn with TYM.
But, I am 135 miles from my closest dealer and I have no trailer capabilities. I'd much rather just clean, grease, and restore by myself. All I need are some basic instructions -- such as which end holds the springs, steel balls, etc. Grut said it was opposite of the cable hook up end. OK, on mine at the opposite ends of the valve are what appear to be a set of double caps? Held on by two different sets of allen screws. Am I lookin in the right area?? Do I just remove each set of caps, noting what is held within? Is there going to be a zillion tiny pieces to get lost?? I have quite a bit of mechanical ability & I'm not afraid to do the work. I'd just feel alot better//safer if I either had a parts repair manual for that NIMCO valve; showing me the exact break-down of what's inside. Can you get me one of those??? If not, can you at least walk me through it one time? After I've done it once, it's a cake-walk for future maintainance. I just need some assistance either via a parts manual or a guideing hand from you.
Thanks for listening & for any further guidance you can offer. Greg

 

[J_J]

Click the link, go to page 7, and it will show the float portion of a valve. It should be similar. Just watch out for the balls and spring. Give it a good cleaning, check for rust, re-grease and re-install.


http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LVManual.pdf

 

[Grut]

Use JJ's diagram. You are right with the caps opposite the cables. Lay everything out when removing. The taller cap is the one with the float assy..I was hesitant at first but with work to do and no progress from TYM I tore it apart after refferencing JJ's Prince diagram to get an idea and cleaned it up..Works pretty good...I used PB Blaster and a bunch of grease..

Have fun..

 

[myyaz33]

Hi Tymdealer,
Glad you chose to respond. My situation is similiar to Grut's; whenever I push my loader joystick completely down into the float position, it then sticks there! And, it's getting increasingly harder to pop it back out of float.

isn't this how the float feature is supposed to work?

 

[J_J]

myyaz33,

It is true that it should lock in float, but it should be easy to pop it out of float also. Then there are some that will not stay in float. A good cleaning will usually fix the problem.

 

[les.houston]

JJ is absolutely right the balls in the detent get dirty and sticky. a good cleaning and some lube will definitly help. Greg and Grut your loader valves are totally differen't with nothing at all in common. Grut the loader valve that you are wanting is actually a cheaper set up that is now used on our ecomony tractors the T300 and T350. The solution that i have done for my customers to solve the "upside down valve" is take the two allen screws out, clean the spring and cap then fill cap with grease and re-install. I know another dealer that has put rubber flaps over the caps and fasten them down with the allen screws. Gregster i don't understand the problem with your loader but if you explain your concern more i will try to help. TYM is the most helpful and caring company I have ever done buisness with. If you have a problem getting anwsers it may be more of a dealer problem if you have another dealer within a close distance it may be worth a try giving them a call to see if they have more expierence with TYM. Hope this helps

tymdealer...when you say "cheaper set up", what are you referring to? Cheaper as in quality? Cheaper in cost to install and maintain? Cheaper because why?

I have a T300 with that exact valve...well...the 3rd one now in 16 months and I feel it is the cause of many of my FEL issues. I am in the process of installing a new valve made by Brand out of Nebraska. I will be posting pics and a writeup to it on my post about my issue this weekend.

I am curious to your take on what "cheaper set up" really means...

Thanks,

Les

 

[Grut]

Les,

I believe he means cheaper as in the loader is not quick disconnect and yours does not have the ergonomic joystick with cables and the expensive(probably the same) upside down water holding valve!!!..
Grut

 

[les.houston]

Les,

I believe he means cheaper as in the loader is not quick disconnect and yours does not have the ergonomic joystick with cables and the expensive(probably the same) upside down water holding valve!!!..
Grut

That is possible...but I want to hear if from the "Horse's Mouth" so to speak...
I ask because of the issues I have had because of this certain controller. The first one barely worked at all and would allow total free-fall of the FEL...there was no feathering ability...it was all or nothing...
I will be (hopefully) be finishing the new valve install tomorrow and will post this weekend with all the details and pics.

 

[Grut]

I understand where you are coming from with that topic because of the problems you have had..
Glad to hear it is about complete and I sure hope it works for the time you have into it..

 

[Redneck in training]

We have TYM 330 with the cable operated FEL valves. Since float is hard to get into and out I removed the cover of the spool to check if there is rust or any kind of damage. I found it completely clean, well greased without a sign of water. The sticking is apparently caused by the particular design of the spool.

 

[Grut]

Redneck in training,
Glad to hear you have no water in your valve. How many hours do you happen to have on yours? and do you use the front loader in the winter?
I had at time of failure 91 hours and I use it to move snow in the winter--that is when I noticed it freezing, yes the valve would freeze because when it cooled it condensated and held moisture--confirmed with my dealer that it is a common problem. I would have to start it up and warm it up as normal in low temps that would usually free it up so it wasn't that much of an issue, but it shouldn't have had the moisture which corroded the ball area on the float assy.

It should not be hard to get in and out of float. I took mine apart that is removing the cap and completely removing the float assy(which is the about 2"+ spacer below the cap) cleaned up and greased and reassembled..Works very nice for the time being. This design does not allow moisture to escape, water then settles to the bottom.
Grut

 

[Redneck in training]

Redneck in training,
Glad to hear you have no water in your valve. How many hours do you happen to have on yours? and do you use the front loader in the winter?
I had at time of failure 91 hours and I use it to move snow in the winter--that is when I noticed it freezing, yes the valve would freeze because when it cooled it condensated and held moisture--confirmed with my dealer that it is a common problem. I would have to start it up and warm it up as normal in low temps that would usually free it up so it wasn't that much of an issue, but it shouldn't have had the moisture which corroded the ball area on the float assy.

It should not be hard to get in and out of float. I took mine apart that is removing the cap and completely removing the float assy(which is the about 2"+ spacer below the cap) cleaned up and greased and reassembled..Works very nice for the time being. This design does not allow moisture to escape, water then settles to the bottom.
Grut

My tractor is about 3 years old and has 320 hours. It is used extensively in the winter plowing snow.
I don't know what force is normal to take it from the float. I have to kind of jerk the joystick to overcome the detent but then the valve operates smoothly.

 

[Grut]

wow! hours and age.
well maybe yours was sealed by your dealer then, because the way it was explained to me is :Factory caps have hole only in top and some dealers modified them by sealing holes and filing a groove in the bottom where the cap butts to the valve on the bucket spool and to the float assy on loader arms spool. That at least removes some water.

I am still waiting to hear from dealer or TYM about what the plans are for mine.

 

[Redneck in training]

wow! hours and age.
well maybe yours was sealed by your dealer then, because the way it was explained to me is :Factory caps have hole only in top and some dealers modified them by sealing holes and filing a groove in the bottom where the cap butts to the valve on the bucket spool and to the float assy on loader arms spool. That at least removes some water.

I am still waiting to hear from dealer or TYM about what the plans are for mine.

My has no hole. At least I didn't see it. It is completely sealed. I am out of home but I will check one more time when I get home in few days.

 

[Grut]

The caps on the top of the valve directly opposite the cable attachement area on the valve should have vent holes in center actually meant to be facing downward. If they are sealed your are better off with that upside down valve setup.

 

[Gregster613]

Greg here, Finally got mad enough at my sticky float valve to get around to tackling the problems I've been having with it. First off, many thanks to JJ for the diagram and Grut for the gut confidence to just open it up and see what was wrong. After I finally did; it was severely corroded and needed a real good cleaning. I soaked it in some diesel overnight and then used emery cloth and elbow grease to clean as best I could.
I had planned to snap some pictures but as usual something else came up at last minute and I needed to get it back into action fast. I packed the snot out of it with some lithium grease and it seems to work fairly well for now. I very well assume that it's an area that often will need attention and I plan to incorporate it into my normal service routine. Especially since I see now how simple it is to take apart and clean up. The TYM valve is different form the prince valve JJ gave as example but still was a piece of cake to dissemble and re-assemble. I had been afraid of hyd fluid spewing everywhere but that is not the case. It seems to be a dry area of the valve that utilizes a compressed spring assembly. The whole unit came off easily and then I just needed my wifes small fingers to assist me in getting the four retaining balls to pop out so's I could completely scour the entire area with emery cloth to clean. Then, I needed those small fingers to assist in getting those tiny balls back into place. Presto - all back together and working fairly smoothly for now. Fingers crossed! I also packed the curl side with grease (altho it had been working just fine all along). Grut, my caps are solid - no weep holes anywhere - and I see that there is no gasket used between the caps. I assume that screws had loosened just enough to allow water from washing to enter. I used blue locktite on screws and if water gets in again I will probably fabricate a slim gasket to try.
All's well for now and my thanks to JJ and Grut once again. Both of you guys gave me the confidence I needed to tackle an unknown. Thanks.
Greg

 

[Grut]

Greg glad to hear that you got it working better!
The solid caps may be way to patch the problem from manufacturer. Did you have notches or grooves on the cap surface which butts to the actual valve body? I see that when mine was cleaned and sealed by the dealer, he must have ground some grooves in the bottom surface of the cap to vent it and try to keep the condensation drained. Only bad part about that is when the grease gets hot is drips out. I too have been just greasing it to keep it moving properly. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the vent holes on top of the cap and adding a grease fitting to each so I can just shoot a pump in there when I grease all the other points.

 

[Gregster613]

Hi Grut, Thanks for the reply! You know, a grease fitting just might be another idea that'd work as a faster means of replenishing lost grease. I'm gonna think on that idea for awhile; maybe after my warranty runs completely out then I'll do some serious improvements.
Although, after popping off the cap -- it just isn't that hard to do -- [listen to me, talking like I'm some old pro now - Ha! - scared little baby before I got mad & just did it!] where as drilling & tapping into that thin aluminum may again be challenging. I'm satisified & back in business for now. Happy Tractoring! Greg