T330 Loader Control Valve

[Gregster613]

Steve, Thanks for the reply.
OK, so it's the actual loader control valve 'spool' that needs the grease?? Not the actual joystick itself? Joystick is what I was monkeying with -- squirted it down heavily with red liquid grease -- to neg results.
Bolted all back tpogether & slamed joystick & it came out of float mode. Guess I'll not be using the float feature anymore; I haven't been anyhow since it'd jam up on me!!
This seems to relate to the Hyd section of forum...&....I'm not at all a guru on Hydraulics but it seems to me that the spool valve is totally encased in metal? How would it (spool valve) get contaminated w/water & need greasing?? I'm not contradicting you, just extremely curious??
Did applying grease to the actual spool valve itself fix the detent jam-up problem?? Or, did it just delay the broken-down portion??
I hadn't realized I had problems until I followed this thread -- Now I do realize that the float feature on TYM273's loaders are another irksome area!
Thanks, Gregster

 

[ALKY]

The way I understand it,there is a vent hole on the bottom but it'smounted upside down hole on top.moisture gets in and rust forms then the sticking begins. Mine was sticking in float and up. :confused2:

 

[Grut]

Gregster and Steve mine is a T330 with LT300 loader. My vavle is upside down. Not sure how the position is on the T2series machines. Once the spools corrode the grease will just by them some time, but a new valve will most likely be needed to correct the problem is what I was told, because next the seals get torn from the corrosion. First my float started to act up and then got worse to move in and out then it started to stick in the downward position. The float problem is what broke my joystick.
I am working with my dealer now on getting this resolved. I have to call some one at TYM and state my case and my solution to see what they think. I have already done the support page on TYM's site and haven't heard a thing yet. Oh and I showed my dealer the loader manual stating 2 year warranty on the loader and he told me to let TYM know because he will also let them know when he calls again today for a solution. Looks like strength in numbers and head to the to top will hopefully get some straight answers..LOL about the previous sentence--kinda like getting attacked by a pack of wolves they head right for the neck. Long day at work, anyway back at the ranch:
Many more folks out there have to have problems with a vavle that is mounted upside down taking on water from rain or washing and not able to drain the condensation. Even if the valve cap is sealed with silicone or RTV it will keep the condensation in there by the spool.
I just hope TYM is fair about correcting the problem the right way, because a new valve and joystick will just pad it for another year or so when the next one corrodes.

 

[Gregster613]

Sreve,
I just got home from work, crawled underneath the beast, and scoured with a flashlight. I cannot see anything looking like a "weep-hole" on my
'09 model 273. The cable ends go into a solid metal cylinder that does attach to the valve with 2 allen head screws, but there is no visible means for water to get inside! I don't have enough hyd knowledge to dis-assemble any further and I'll probably just end-up not using the float position at all (I hardly ever used it anyway); to avoid further damage!

My machine does not sit outside in any rain, but I do power-wash it quite often. I don't know what model year your 233 was, but perhaps there was a design change? I have noticed loader control "stiffness" since I first got the machine, but I thought it was just me getting used to operating the Lil beast!

Grut, my 273 has the LT200 loader and maybe our designs are different? I don't know but, as I told Steve, I've noticed an awkwardness with the float control ever since new. I don't have a TYM dealer anywhere near me so I'm "again" in a fix if this is in fact a design flaw and needs correction via a dealer.

I noticed on my loader valve a stamped manufacture name of "NIMBY"? Perhaps these are a faulty series of valves? At least, the "float" detent portion of them? Because my curl functions are just fine -- in fact everything about the loader works correctly 'cept for the "float" setting. I don't know what to do about it just yet. Perhaps the friendly TYM Dealer will come back on line and offer his solution? I have 100 hours on my beast and I didn't expect for Hydraulic valves to go bad, at least this soon!

If I go on-line to TYM and request a review of my machine, then I'm gonna have to get it hauled far away & for how long? I just cannot be without my tractor for any extended length of time; and perhaps that is exactly what TYM hopes for. That the average owner will be to impatient to have his/her machine out of commision for any length of time? I guess that's OK by me, just give me the "step-by-step" instructions [and a source of parts required] to replace/repair and I'll happily do it myself!!

So, guess I'm open for suggestions also! Thanks, Gregster

 

[Grut]

First pic is what I have and second what I want or I should say what should have been there. I also posted in the Hydraulic section looking for ideas if they are not willing to upgrade to the proper set up and stick me with mine. I could fix it but it would require a little work, fabbing, and yes some money which I shouldn't have to put in mine already with 91 hours of mostly back hoe and box blading since 11/08 and stored inside also.

 

[Gregster613]

Grut,
Saw your system and yes you do have a different set-up from the K2, but I just can't seem to see where the problem "upside-down valve" is located? I saw where you have the joystick area all covered in blue protective wrap (and cables going to the loader valve) but it sounded earlier, as if the weep-hole was located at the actual control valve? Or was it at the bottom of the joystick? Or am I confusing your problem with what Steve described as his? I couldn't find any source of a weep-hole on my set-up? That doesn't mean it isn't there though! I could have soundly missed it -- although I searched heartedly!!
I am curious as to the different set-up's you show? How is the 2d picture much different than the original except that the joystick is much closer to the loader itself? Does it eliminate the cable entirely? How woul it operate the valves w/out a cable? If'n it works -- Great!!
Greg

 

[Grut]

Greg the hole is oposite the of where the cables attach to the valve. In my first pic the holes are facing up, which is bad. In the second pic they are oposite the joystick. The joystick has a mechanism which operates the spools directly been used for many years. Most new machines are using the cables because of ergonomics, which can be good but my case the valve isn't in right position.
Look at your vavle and see if your holes(oposite cable adapters on valve) are facing downward, which they may, I haven't heard of any vavle problems with the T2 series.
Cables will start to bind though dirt and water get in eventually. Use some spray and that usually works. I know on my ATV's I use a cable spray called cable life or something like that--works great and can be purchased from a motorsports dealer.

 

[J_J]

Page 7 will show parts for a prince valve showing the float portion of the valve. It is the balls and spring and grove that make it work. If it gets dirty or rusty, it will jam and not work so good or at all. Usually a good cleaning and grease, or replace the float assembly, will let you enjoy the feature of the valve. Float is very useful in certain situations.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LVManual.pdf

 

[Grut]

Thanks J.J.

 

[tymdealer]

JJ is absolutely right the balls in the detent get dirty and sticky. a good cleaning and some lube will definitly help. Greg and Grut your loader valves are totally differen't with nothing at all in common. Grut the loader valve that you are wanting is actually a cheaper set up that is now used on our ecomony tractors the T300 and T350. The solution that i have done for my customers to solve the "upside down valve" is take the two allen screws out, clean the spring and cap then fill cap with grease and re-install. I know another dealer that has put rubber flaps over the caps and fasten them down with the allen screws. Gregster i don't understand the problem with your loader but if you explain your concern more i will try to help. TYM is the most helpful and caring company I have ever done buisness with. If you have a problem getting anwsers it may be more of a dealer problem if you have another dealer within a close distance it may be worth a try giving them a call to see if they have more expierence with TYM. Hope this helps