T330 Loader Control Valve

[Grut]

Hey guys anybody have any problems with the control valve for the front end loader on a T330 tractor with a LT300 loader or similar brand(scorpion, etc.). Mine is/was hard to get into float position and getting it out is/was worse. It also has started to stick very slightly in the down position. Today I was using it and the joystick broke--the ball on the neutal post broke off causing the joystick to overtravel forward and break the plastic which covers the cable ball ends and attaches to the boot. No biggy but I was tinkering with it before it got dark and the up/down valve spool was actually causing the whole problem. It appears water entered the vent hole on top and rusted up the spring and I know the spool is sticking, not sure if the water travelled to bottom side haven't tore it off. I know the dealer had said that he figured out the control vavle was actually mounted upside down and to to seal the holes in the top(which is where the spring is) to eliminate water from entering. It was sealed by the dealer when he did some other warranty work this spring.

So much for getting the back of the house back filled!! Time for a beer or 4.

Well off to the dealer tomorrow to see what he has to say about this new deal.

 

[Grut]

Well the dealer is checking into with TYM to see if they can do anything to assist me because he has had a bunch come back out of the 1 year warranty(Attachments) with the same problem--valve mounted upside down accumulated water/moisture in the return spring and spool causing corrosion which caused binding that eventually stretches cables and breaks joysticks.
The $850 control valve needs changed out and the joystick repaired. He did show me the new T300 with LT350 loader and they went back to a valve mounted joystick on the front loader bracket. That is what I am looking into now, eliminating the cables, never liked that setup anyway.
I am calling the dealer back on Monday to see what TYM will do, which I guessing not much that is why I have a plan of attack already set up if I have to repair myself.

Anybody with the T330 or similar have any control valve problems becuase of the vavle being mounted upside down?

Just grabbed the original manual for he loader it appears to be under a 2 year warranty. Well, I will have to see what I can work out with my dealer then to possibly get an upgrade to the valve mounted joystick..

 

[Redneck in training]

I have the same tractor with the same problem. Have not damaged the joystick yet.

 

[ALKY]

I had a similar problem with a 233.

 

[Grut]

guys did your dealers fix your problem?

After a bunch of research vavles are still made to be upside down, because the cables usually attach to the bottom. They should however have some kind of mushroom vent cover over them to keep water out and be stated somewhere to keep lubed up because of condensation.

I am stopping at the dealer today to ask him why he stated the attachments have a 1 year warranty and the operators manuals for both my backhoe and front loader state clear as day 2 year warranty.
Also going to see what kind of deal or how we might work something out to eliminate the cable system. I have a set up ready to go but would cost me a little over $250, and why should I fork out any cash when that part is still under warranty per TYM.

 

[ALKY]

TYM told me to clean up the spool valve and lube with grease. The grease I used was a little heavy,but fixed it after it melted in. Of course they would have done it for a small fee! :laughing: STEVE

 

[Grut]

Steve how bad was yours when you cleaned it all up and greased it? Mine is sticking going down(not returning to center and stopping movement) and hard to get in and out of float,which broke the joystick.
Wow wish my dealer would have done the greasing when he had it this spring. All he did was pull the cover spray some lubricant and silicone the hole shut which didn't last on the loader arm spool.. I asked him when I was out there Friday about cleaning the spool up or rebuilding it and he said that I would need an $850 valve, joystick repair, and installation but was going to call TYM to see what they would do because of the one year warranty. He wouldn't give me a valve because 1 he didn't have one and 2 told me alot involved with swapping it out..
Ha ha ha I can get a Brand Loader vavle for $199 at Northern Tool and a PB sleeve for $20 locally and install one myself which eliminates the crappy cables. Which I am about to do pretty soon, too much time wasted tt to too many people looking for too many answers while my work load for the machine just piles up around the house and winter isn't getting any further away.

What ticks me off is I was supposed to get a call at the end of the day on Friday and as of yet haven't heard anything. I didn't get a chance to stop by the dealer today which I was going to do with the manual in hand showing him the 2 year warranty in print and see what he is going to do. Starting to get a little angry at this point. Once again.
Last time which was spring he took my tractor for a week to just drill and tap stripped out threads. I went there with my plan of attack: thread, length of bolts to be used, etc. looking for a go ahead. Could have had it fixed in an hour, but no dealer must perform work under warranty--I guess at least it is documented.

 

[ALKY]

Originally,I sprayed pb blaster on it & the rust flowed out of the housing.[only removed the end cap] It worked for awhile then dried and tightened up sticking in the raise position. Dealer told me to grease it,so I tried to pack grease in the spool after 2 tries it worked. I only removed the 2 allen bolts on the front of the housing. My dealer died about a year after purchase,so warranty through a dealer who didn't make $$ from a sale is rough to say the least! Hope you get it fixed.My tractor is in the shop now. the part is coming from Korea so it is goin to be awhile. STEVE BTW my manual says 2 years also

 

[Gregster613]

Hi all, I, too, am having problems w/loader valve getting stuck in float.
At first I thought it was just me getting used to operating it; but, after following this thread, I just now tried to dissemble the joystick valve & lube it up. Ha!
My very first move was to squirt penetrating fluid down into the little holes -- with zero results!
As usual, it seems very complicated to dissemble? I removed the square black plastic housing (2 - 10mm bolts), then the metal casing holding it in place (2 - 12mm bolts), got the rubber boot slipped up top, now --- how does the rest of it dissemble? Mine is stuck in float position & I hoped grease/lube would free it up. I don't wanna end up breaking anything!
ALKY, what did you mean - explicitedly - regarding removing just the one bolt? I cannot excatly remember what you called it? Was it the large bolt/washer that holds joystick onto the square housing? Under the black rubber boot? Left or right hand thread? Just force grease down into it with a finger? A little help from someone whom has already encountered this perplexing problem is very much appreciated!!
I get through one & another pops it's ugly lil head up!! Thanks, Greg

 

[ALKY]

It is 2 allen head bolts on the front of the control valve.It is located under the right foot rest. You must remove the reverse hst pedal to get to it.If I remember correctly it is the valve towards the center of the tractor,the other is curl. With cap removed gently move the joystick to work the valve.Apply lightweight grease to spool after cleaning it. If you are not mechanically inclined Iwouldn't do it. There is one piece under the cap that falls out but it is fairly large. Any? just ask. STEVE:thumbsup:

 

[Gregster613]

Steve, Thanks for the reply.
OK, so it's the actual loader control valve 'spool' that needs the grease?? Not the actual joystick itself? Joystick is what I was monkeying with -- squirted it down heavily with red liquid grease -- to neg results.
Bolted all back tpogether & slamed joystick & it came out of float mode. Guess I'll not be using the float feature anymore; I haven't been anyhow since it'd jam up on me!!
This seems to relate to the Hyd section of forum...&....I'm not at all a guru on Hydraulics but it seems to me that the spool valve is totally encased in metal? How would it (spool valve) get contaminated w/water & need greasing?? I'm not contradicting you, just extremely curious??
Did applying grease to the actual spool valve itself fix the detent jam-up problem?? Or, did it just delay the broken-down portion??
I hadn't realized I had problems until I followed this thread -- Now I do realize that the float feature on TYM273's loaders are another irksome area!
Thanks, Gregster

 

[ALKY]

The way I understand it,there is a vent hole on the bottom but it'smounted upside down hole on top.moisture gets in and rust forms then the sticking begins. Mine was sticking in float and up. :confused2:

 

[Grut]

Gregster and Steve mine is a T330 with LT300 loader. My vavle is upside down. Not sure how the position is on the T2series machines. Once the spools corrode the grease will just by them some time, but a new valve will most likely be needed to correct the problem is what I was told, because next the seals get torn from the corrosion. First my float started to act up and then got worse to move in and out then it started to stick in the downward position. The float problem is what broke my joystick.
I am working with my dealer now on getting this resolved. I have to call some one at TYM and state my case and my solution to see what they think. I have already done the support page on TYM's site and haven't heard a thing yet. Oh and I showed my dealer the loader manual stating 2 year warranty on the loader and he told me to let TYM know because he will also let them know when he calls again today for a solution. Looks like strength in numbers and head to the to top will hopefully get some straight answers..LOL about the previous sentence--kinda like getting attacked by a pack of wolves they head right for the neck. Long day at work, anyway back at the ranch:
Many more folks out there have to have problems with a vavle that is mounted upside down taking on water from rain or washing and not able to drain the condensation. Even if the valve cap is sealed with silicone or RTV it will keep the condensation in there by the spool.
I just hope TYM is fair about correcting the problem the right way, because a new valve and joystick will just pad it for another year or so when the next one corrodes.

 

[Gregster613]

Sreve,
I just got home from work, crawled underneath the beast, and scoured with a flashlight. I cannot see anything looking like a "weep-hole" on my
'09 model 273. The cable ends go into a solid metal cylinder that does attach to the valve with 2 allen head screws, but there is no visible means for water to get inside! I don't have enough hyd knowledge to dis-assemble any further and I'll probably just end-up not using the float position at all (I hardly ever used it anyway); to avoid further damage!

My machine does not sit outside in any rain, but I do power-wash it quite often. I don't know what model year your 233 was, but perhaps there was a design change? I have noticed loader control "stiffness" since I first got the machine, but I thought it was just me getting used to operating the Lil beast!

Grut, my 273 has the LT200 loader and maybe our designs are different? I don't know but, as I told Steve, I've noticed an awkwardness with the float control ever since new. I don't have a TYM dealer anywhere near me so I'm "again" in a fix if this is in fact a design flaw and needs correction via a dealer.

I noticed on my loader valve a stamped manufacture name of "NIMBY"? Perhaps these are a faulty series of valves? At least, the "float" detent portion of them? Because my curl functions are just fine -- in fact everything about the loader works correctly 'cept for the "float" setting. I don't know what to do about it just yet. Perhaps the friendly TYM Dealer will come back on line and offer his solution? I have 100 hours on my beast and I didn't expect for Hydraulic valves to go bad, at least this soon!

If I go on-line to TYM and request a review of my machine, then I'm gonna have to get it hauled far away & for how long? I just cannot be without my tractor for any extended length of time; and perhaps that is exactly what TYM hopes for. That the average owner will be to impatient to have his/her machine out of commision for any length of time? I guess that's OK by me, just give me the "step-by-step" instructions [and a source of parts required] to replace/repair and I'll happily do it myself!!

So, guess I'm open for suggestions also! Thanks, Gregster

 

[Grut]

First pic is what I have and second what I want or I should say what should have been there. I also posted in the Hydraulic section looking for ideas if they are not willing to upgrade to the proper set up and stick me with mine. I could fix it but it would require a little work, fabbing, and yes some money which I shouldn't have to put in mine already with 91 hours of mostly back hoe and box blading since 11/08 and stored inside also.

 

[Gregster613]

Grut,
Saw your system and yes you do have a different set-up from the K2, but I just can't seem to see where the problem "upside-down valve" is located? I saw where you have the joystick area all covered in blue protective wrap (and cables going to the loader valve) but it sounded earlier, as if the weep-hole was located at the actual control valve? Or was it at the bottom of the joystick? Or am I confusing your problem with what Steve described as his? I couldn't find any source of a weep-hole on my set-up? That doesn't mean it isn't there though! I could have soundly missed it -- although I searched heartedly!!
I am curious as to the different set-up's you show? How is the 2d picture much different than the original except that the joystick is much closer to the loader itself? Does it eliminate the cable entirely? How woul it operate the valves w/out a cable? If'n it works -- Great!!
Greg

 

[Grut]

Greg the hole is oposite the of where the cables attach to the valve. In my first pic the holes are facing up, which is bad. In the second pic they are oposite the joystick. The joystick has a mechanism which operates the spools directly been used for many years. Most new machines are using the cables because of ergonomics, which can be good but my case the valve isn't in right position.
Look at your vavle and see if your holes(oposite cable adapters on valve) are facing downward, which they may, I haven't heard of any vavle problems with the T2 series.
Cables will start to bind though dirt and water get in eventually. Use some spray and that usually works. I know on my ATV's I use a cable spray called cable life or something like that--works great and can be purchased from a motorsports dealer.

 

[J_J]

Page 7 will show parts for a prince valve showing the float portion of the valve. It is the balls and spring and grove that make it work. If it gets dirty or rusty, it will jam and not work so good or at all. Usually a good cleaning and grease, or replace the float assembly, will let you enjoy the feature of the valve. Float is very useful in certain situations.

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LVManual.pdf

 

[Grut]

Thanks J.J.

 

[tymdealer]

JJ is absolutely right the balls in the detent get dirty and sticky. a good cleaning and some lube will definitly help. Greg and Grut your loader valves are totally differen't with nothing at all in common. Grut the loader valve that you are wanting is actually a cheaper set up that is now used on our ecomony tractors the T300 and T350. The solution that i have done for my customers to solve the "upside down valve" is take the two allen screws out, clean the spring and cap then fill cap with grease and re-install. I know another dealer that has put rubber flaps over the caps and fasten them down with the allen screws. Gregster i don't understand the problem with your loader but if you explain your concern more i will try to help. TYM is the most helpful and caring company I have ever done buisness with. If you have a problem getting anwsers it may be more of a dealer problem if you have another dealer within a close distance it may be worth a try giving them a call to see if they have more expierence with TYM. Hope this helps