Subsoiler

[woolyAcres]

@Fallon-

Thanks for responding. Does your unit have a bushing and use 1/2" sheer bolt? When I purchased mine it didn't include the bushing mentioned in the assembly video. When I called about (after snapping the first top link) they said wasn't necessary and 5/8 grade 2 or softer would be fine. Picture below shows what I did last weekend, which did finally break the shear pin, but from the way the pin is broken, it didn't shear, it was broken by pulling, I'm guessing as the yoke opened up.

I'm confused about how exactly the shear bolt on this implement is designed to actually shear. When you hit something hard, the foot wants to rotate around the lift pins, backward away from the tractor, but it's prevented from doing so by the top link. My best guess is that the yoke on the ripper that connects to the top link (where the sheer bolt is installed) is meant to rotate upward a bit, pushing the top link up, rotating the yoke until the welded portion hits the vertical plow and that breaks the pin? If that's true, it seems to be a pretty short lever arm. In addition, any side-to-side motion in the lift arms would cause the backward rotation (in the plane of the vertical plow) to be diverted to a sideways motion.

Clearly I'm doing something wrong. And it's costing me. Two top links and now a busted yoke....

Anyone with suggestions?

 

[woolyAcres]

I think I got mine from Northern Tool. Definitely need to keep spare sheer bolts around. You can see the bolt get beatup & start to bend over a few hours. A better subsoiler probably has better clearances & won't wear out the sheer bolts over time, only on bad stuff.

Somehow missed this much earlier post. Fallon, is your subsoiler from Everything Attachments or from Northern Tool?

 

[Fallon]

Somehow missed this much earlier post. Fallon, is your subsoiler from Everything Attachments or from Northern Tool?

Northern Tool. On mine the sheer pin holds the shank to the rest of the frame. When it breaks the shank just pivots back unsupported.