stuck pin

[Davenj4f]

2019 BX25D. During last greasing operation, I could not get grease in the top joint of the outrigger. The arrow points at it. I took the C clip off, thinking the pic would come out, but light tapping got nowheres. Before I hit it hard, I need to know if it is solid and OK to hit hard. Wish I had an exploded view parts document, but don't.
Zerk fitting is on the otherside.

 

[MTGreen]

Suggest unscrew Zerk , clear, reinstall, and try to get grease in.
Pin is almost certainly solid. Be careful not to bend the ears or booger up the end so it jams up inside worse than it is already.
May need some heat but you'll need to be really careful with getting too much heat further down the cylinder.
Worst case may need a portapower with a hollow cylinder to extract

 

[joecdeere]

Most likely one of two things has happene. Either the pin has become bound to the cylinder rod bore, and or this has allowed the rod to turn in the stab leg wearing a notch in the pin. I always hate hammering on a pin, if you mushroom the end, it’s not going back through the hole. Before getting carried away, get a good high power heat gun and or a hand torch and heat the pin from both sides and see if that loosens the harder grease any, and that itself may allow the pin to move. If all else fails, I have had to saw out the pin and then get the cylinder in a press to get the piece out. FYI Messicks has an easy to use parts book system for Kubota

the pin will be drilled halfway down from the filling hole to the middl, then cross drilled to get grease to the rod

 

[ruffdog]

If it is not moving with light tapping, heavy tapping is next. I like to shield the pin from damage by using a brass punch or put hard wood or aluminum on the pin to hit. If you keep progressing more forceful and it still doesn't move, then heating the middle of the area where the pin is stuck may help. I would rather have to touch up some paint than not free this pin up.

 

[DJ54]

As mentioned MTGreen, remove zerk and get as much grease/dirt as you can. Fill hole with liquid penetrate replace zerk and pump grease in with a good lever gun, or cordless gun with 10,000 psi. It may take a good bit of leverage on the handle but a good gun "should" push the liquid through the caked grease and dirt and grease will follow. May lube it up enough to get it out.

I've picked up several brass hammers over the years at auctions just for this purpose. Place it on the pin and smack it with a sledge saves boogering up the pin.

 

[MattB4]

Make sure you have released all hydraulic pressure . Your photo shows the stabilizer as being up so their is some on it to hold it there.

 

[Davenj4f]

Suggest unscrew Zerk , clear, reinstall, and try to get grease in.
Pin is almost certainly solid. Be careful not to bend the ears or booger up the end so it jams up inside worse than it is already.
May need some heat but you'll need to be really careful with getting too much heat further down the cylinder.
Worst case may need a portapower with a hollow cylinder to extract

Thanks MT. Have already unscrewed, and even replaced the zerk fitting. Even acquired one of those grease joint rejuvenators, didn't help. If the pin is solid, I can pound it out appropriately, but didn't know if it was. Certainly seems so, but didn't want to do the wrong thing to start off. Like I said, already removed the clip and tapped some, but didn't budge. Was hoping someone could confirm it is solid and ok to hit harder. BTW, know where I could get an exploded parts list ?

 

[Thomas]

As Matt reply,also try spray lube hit pin back and forth.

 

[MTGreen]

If the pin is solid, I can pound it out appropriately,

Let's hope you are right.
Try Messicks for exploded parts diagram

 

[LittleBill21]

brass punch and air hammer will walk it right out

 

[Davenj4f]

brass punch and air hammer will walk it right out

Got both, but like I said, I was trying to confirm that it was ok to force it out. Thanks to all who replied.

 

[Cycledude]

How many hours on the tractor ? Can you remove the other pin that might help relieve some pressure and make it easier to remove ?

 

[Davenj4f]

How many hours on the tractor ? Can you remove the other pin that might help relieve some pressure and make it easier to remove ?

About 400 hours. I hadn't thought about dropping the outrigger, or removing the other pin to relieve any tension on the pin. Have too many other other projects going on I guess. Thanks for that suggestion.-

 

[ericm979]

With the outrigger up the only pressure on the pin is from the weight of the outrigger itself, which isn't that much. You should be able to push up and feel it take up the slop in the linkages. Or use a tie down between the two outriggers to pull them together. Maybe with it pulled up you can get some grease in it.

If the cylinder eye has worn into the pin there might be a ridge that's keeping the pin from sliding sideways. Pulling/pushing up the right way should let you get the ridge past the eye.

 

[4570Man]

You can hit the pin as hard as you want but if you mushroom the end it won’t come out.

 

[ericm979]

Is the pin just below the problem one free to move sideways? If so you could pull that one and drop the leg down, then there'd just be the bracket on the problem pin.

 

[jshwhite]

Had the same problem on mine a while back and had to get creative. LA854 loader pins seized

LA854 loader pins seized

 

[Jimbo16720]

Always use a brass pin or even a brass hammer to pound on the pin. You might also have pressure on it by the hydraulics. If it truly stuck you should notice when running it up and down even by noise. Spray it good and run it up and down so penetrating oil works in and take pressure off and start pounding.

 

[rScotty]

Before I hit it hard, I need to know if it is solid and OK to hit hard.

No. It isn't OK to hit it hard. Tapping was fine, a few light smacks and some heat are allowable... but hitting it hard is not. Good on you for asking first.

That end of the stabilizer is a lever. Hitting it may get the pin out, but it will probably just make things worse. It can just bend the flange or the other end of the cylinder where it connects to the tractor.

What most mechanics will do is take a puller, hook the puller claws onto the far side of the flange, and then tighten the puller center bolt so that it presses on the end of the pin. The picture will give you the idea. Pullers can be expensive, but Harbor Freight has hat style for under $20 bucks. Better pullers will have "Tee Bolts" that can be used instead of puller claws. Those bolts can fasten to a plate or something on the far side of the flange. Each time you come up against a stuck gear or shaft it requires ingenuity... and a puller.

You can get a lot more force on the pin by rigging up a puller than by beating on it. And no damage... If that doesn't budge the pin, next step is to repeat while heating the bushing.

You may have to use a torch - or at least a propane/Mapp gas torch - and get that bushing really hot.
BTW, disconnect the hoses to the cylinder before adding heat. And it's not uncommon to use some worm drive hose clamps to hold the puller claws in position.
Good luck,
go slow

 

[MTGreen]

Pin is almost certainly solid. Be careful not to bend the ears or booger up the end so it jams up inside worse than it is already.

Use the quote feature instead a reposting the exact thing that a member (me) posted