Soon 2 buy first tractor; likely the BX1860 or BX2360

[Mr. Ace]

Will do harpoon. My primary purpose for wanting a tractor will be for snow removal for the private road/drive. We're a bit out in the wilderness. I have nearly 1/2 mile to clear, all of it well packed dirt/gravel, in good condition, a bit less than 2 cars wide, cut through the forest, with a few mild - moderate hills (no severe grades). We're in the lake effect snowbelt and average 20' of snow/year. B/C of the heavy snowfall, if you push snow with a blade, the banks get real high, real fast, and make blade clearing difficult/impractical.

I have been doing a combination of using a walk & push snowblower and contracting a snow service. The pros I hire use a blade early in the snow season then switch to tractor with a mounted snowblower. When I saw them using the tractor & blower I knew that was the cat's a** solution! I was considering maybe a 4wd ATV with a blower, but I believe a tractor & blower will be a superior solution, although more expensive. The Kubota 0% financing is a great incentive too, and I want to be able to eventually have a cab. Also, my thoughts are I could also pick up a couple of snow clearing jobs nearby, to help pay for this beast. That is where it would be handy to have a better travel speed, as I would only take a snow job within tractor driving distance (don't want to trailer).

Like you harpoon, I would also use it for some miscellanous jobs around the property, like hauling branches, firewood, road/drive grading. I'm sure I will want to add implements as I go along like a FEL, but that will likely have to wait for a year or two.

 

[radioman]

Mr ace- with 20' of snow, you will want a blower like you said, but with that much to clear without a cab, you are not gonna be happy. with that much wooded acres, having a tractor without a FEL doesnt make sense. I am telling you this now so you won't be kicking yourself later. Have you thought about getting a B with FEL and rear 3pt blower? A rear 3 pt blower is much cheaper then a front mounted. however, you need to consider the pain in the neck looking backwards and 20' of snow is just trouble for neck to happen. You might be surprised on how well the FEL works just for clearing snow for awhile in B sized.

 

[harpoonalt]

Much clearer now. For that much snow, a blower is your best bet. A "B" series tractor would be my choice with a blower. The tractor will last you a long time and long term, probably cost less than an ATV. I'd get the FEL with the tractor since it will cost you less and (trust us on this) be the best money you ever spent, especially with zero % financing. I agree on a cab being nice, but I would rather have a "B" with a FEL and add the cab later. Once you have the tractor, you'll wonder how you ever got along without one. The BX will do what you want but the higher speed and more ground clearance can't be added later. Please post pictures of the rig in action. With that much snow, they'll be impressive!

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Much clearer now. For that much snow, a blower is your best bet. A "B" series tractor would be my choice with a blower. The tractor will last you a long time and long term, probably cost less than an ATV. I'd get the FEL with the tractor since it will cost you less and (trust us on this) be the best money you ever spent, especially with zero % financing. I agree on a cab being nice, but I would rather have a "B" with a FEL and add the cab later. Once you have the tractor, you'll wonder how you ever got along without one. The BX will do what you want but the higher speed and more ground clearance can't be added later. Please post pictures of the rig in action. With that much snow, they'll be impressive!

I don't do snow but harpoonalt has nailed it in my opinion. I thought I was wasting money when I bought a FEL on my first tractor but now I see the light. Seems the FEL could help moving snow but that's not from personal experience.

 

[DGS]

I have a B3200 and a BX2660. BX guys don't want to hear it but there's more than paper specs between the B and BX. Try both and you'll see. It's not just "more power" because some BX's have more HP than some B's. I know LB, you wouldn't have a tractor if you had to have a B. Tell us again how you have 3 BX's and how they'll do any and every thing.

Hey John
LB's got his in a circus too
LOL
DGS

 

[ChuckinNH]

One poster made the comment that the higher B model might be less stable. I have found the opposite to be true. I had a BX, and now have a B2620, and have found the B to be much more stable in the woods, and on any rough ground. The extra clearance, and tougher underbody has been great too. You can use the same snowblower on the B that is specified for the BX if you want to save a bit of money, but I do think it is of lighter construction. Another option is adding the "drift knives" which actually extend the width of the blower by a couple of inches on each side, or so. Also, though not advertised, the loader quick attach setup from the B3200 fits, and works fine on the smaller B series.. B2x20's. That would allow you to add a larger bucket for snow use, or forks for use with brush, logs, rocks, and pallets, etc. I have that setup on mine, and have been pleasantly surprised how well they work for popping out, and transporting large rocks, and brush. For either, I would get loaded turf tires, and buy chains for your uses. Good luck with your choices, and tractor!

 

[Crash101]

BX or B series, good question. If mowing, a BX makes great sense, but if mostly removing snow and later on using it for various dirt moving chores, the B series is much better. I fear if you buy a BX, you will one day soon wish to trade up for the B. Trades get expensive, especially with 0 percent interest for new (little demand for late model used machines at bank rate interest).
Items like a front end loader, rotary cutter/finish mower,tiller, post hole digger or any other working tool you will no doubt wish to own someday will certainly work much better behind a B series than a BX. If a couple thousand dollars is the difference it will be a very well spent couple thousand dollars. The difference down the road when you wish to trade the BX will be 2 or 3 times as much.

 

[Mr. Ace]

Great posts; I really appreciate everyone sharing their tractor wisdom. You can't get this stuff in a brochure.

Good to know Chuck that you are having good stability with your B-series relative to the BX. I would think that the longer wheel base in the B-series helps offset the higher GC; 6.4" longer WB according to specs.

I'm also curious about the loaded tires that Chuck and harpoon mentioned. I haven't given the tire choice much thought yet; more or less assuming that since I wouldn't be doing any mowing (no lawn to speak of) that agricultural R1 tires would be a good for snow work & misc. chores. With chains though, I would think that turf tires probably would work out better. I hope I can do without chains; will probably have to try it out first and see how it goes. Do Kubota dealers offer loading of tires? Do most users load the rears only, or all four?

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

My dealer, Barlows loads my tires and I have rears only loaded. have a BX and a B. Had an L. The stability issue, to me, is on hill sides which I have. The L felt very unstable to me on my hill sides and I traded it back for another B. I mow with my BX and will drive side ways across hills with it and feel fairly secure. Have not and will not do the cross hills with B. Straight up and straight down they all feel stable. Driving through woods as long as your not driving across hills the B will be fine. Looks to me like you need a B for ground clearance and that's the "major" difference between B and BX. To me amount of acreage is not one of the factors between a B and a BX. Diesel engine with heavy duty frame will do it with either model, size of implements make the difference of time.

 

[LBrown59]

BX or B series, good question. If mowing, a BX makes great sense, but if mostly removing snow and later on using it for various dirt moving chores, the B series is much better.
1*I fear if you buy a BX, you will one day soon wish to trade up for the B.
2*Trades get expensive, especially with 0 percent interest for new (little demand for late model used machines at bank rate interest).
3*Items like a front end loader, rotary cutter/finish mower,tiller, post hole digger or any other working tool you will no doubt wish to own someday will certainly work much better behind a B series than a BX.
4*If a couple thousand dollars is the difference it will be a very well spent couple thousand dollars.
5*The difference down the road when you wish to trade the BX will be 2 or 3 times as much.

1*I bought a BX23 5 years ago .Never traded for a B model But I did buy 2 more BXs a couple years ago and kept the BX23. The difference in cost was a great deal less than 3 B series would have been.
2*Same story with the B series also.
3*All these cost more for the B series so the total difference can be much more than just a couple of thousand bucks.
4* Count it all up it's likely way more than that .
5*I don't see how because as you said in # .This also carries over to every other tractor out there including the B series.
Other things to consider is
Bigger trailer and truck required to haul the larger B equals even more money for such items.

 

[dodge man]

I can't disagree with the others, even though I have a BX, from what you describe, you would be much better off with a B. A B3030 with the cab would be perfect, but money is money. If you can't afford it, buy what you can afford. One thing that you will find out and others have mentioned, get the FEL up front. Its almost a must have. If you have that much blowing to do, get the front snow blower. Buy the BX if thats all you can afford.

Another option is to buy a used B. They are plentifull. Just make sure that if it doesn't come with a blower, you can still get one for it. Do you know anybody that is a tractor guy that can go with you to look at used ones? If you do that would help. Other wise post questions on here. Another money saving option is a used BX. There is also alot of them used available. Good luck with your search.

 

[LBrown59]

1*Good to know Chuck that you are having good stability with your B-series relative to the BX.
2*I would think that the longer wheel base in the B-series helps offset the higher GC; 6.4" longer WB according to specs.
3*I'm also curious about the loaded tires that Chuck and harpoon mentioned. I haven't given the tire choice much thought yet; more or less assuming that since I wouldn't be doing any mowing (no lawn to speak of) that 4*agricultural R1 tires would be a good for snow work & misc. chores.
5*With chains though, I would think that turf tires probably would work out better.
6*I hope I can do without chains.

1*I've driven both The BX and the B .
There are places on my place where I won't take my BX23 so I darn sure hain't gonna get on them with a B series.
The B just feels top heavy to me compared to a BX.
A friend of mine just bought a new B3200 .
Says it's scarry on inclines and he's had it in some nervy situations.
Said you have to really watch it to keep it on all fours.
2*Long wheel base don't do a thing to help on side slopes but low CG does.
3*I have un loaded tires. and see no need to load them.
4*They are the only way to go in my book.
5*Get ags and you won't have to fiddle around with chains.
6*GetTurfs or R4s and you will more than like to get to fight with chains in most cases..

 

[bp fick]

I surely do not wish to start a thread within a thread on the whole tire issue, but I do grow a wee bit weary with generalizations of R1 versus R4 versus Turf versus Super-Turf.

Here's the thing. Generalization aren't that helpful. Making sweeping statements that one is ALWAYS superior to another is simply not accurate because there is no such thing as ALWAYS, as in ALWAYS the same conditions.

Variables, there are ALWAYS variables. One cannot just say dirt, because even dirt isn't just dirt. The endless permutations of soil experienced throughout North America prevent that.

Ditto snow. There are different kinds of snow. Frankly, in some situations, the friction patch of a super-turf can out perform a more aggressively barred tire. The reverse can be true in different situations.

Talk to your neighbors. Ask them what their experience is with this or that tire in this or that application. But even then, your tractor may be considerably different from theirs. Two wheel versus four wheel, weight distribution, etc. Again, these are variables.

In the end, try what you think is best. Live. Learn. Be willing to adapt and change if need be. That's all I have to say. No flaming intended whatsoever.

 

[dodge man]

I can't agree with L-Brown. I went about 8 months without my tires loaded, and have had them loaded about 5 months. Loaded tires is the only way to go, it makes the tractor more stable and counter balances implements that are on the front.

 

[harpoonalt]

Dodgeman and BP Fick are right. My dealer always loads tires. There are a few times more weight isn't good (soft lawns) but for most times more weight means more ballast and better traction. The tire thing is true too. No perfect tire. Some are specialized and some are compromise tires. If, like most of us, you do a little of everything, the r4 is a good all around tire. Kind of like an all season tire on a car. Do mostly woods stuff or mow and you can get a more focused tire.
Read a lot here. You'll learn who's giving you their best objective opinion and who's trying to justify their own purchases. I read a ton here and it helps a lot when you go to buy. You'll know what you want, what to look for and what a good , fair price is. The BX is a great machine, but unlike what some poster will tell you, cannot climb trees, fly thru the air, or turn lead into gold. Neither will a "B", but if it was my money that would be my choice with a set of mediocre R4's. Your mileage may vary

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Dodgeman and BP Fick are right. My dealer always loads tires. There are a few times more weight isn't good (soft lawns) but for most times more weight means more ballast and better traction. The tire thing is true too. No perfect tire. Some are specialized and some are compromise tires. If, like most of us, you do a little of everything, the r4 is a good all around tire. Kind of like an all season tire on a car. Do mostly woods stuff or mow and you can get a more focused tire.
Read a lot here. You'll learn who's giving you their best objective opinion and who's trying to justify their own purchases. I read a ton here and it helps a lot when you go to buy. You'll know what you want, what to look for and what a good , fair price is. The BX is a great machine, but unlike what some poster will tell you, cannot climb trees, fly thru the air, or turn lead into gold. Neither will a "B", but if it was my money that would be my choice with a set of mediocre R4's. Your mileage may vary

Very good advice. Attached pictures of BX2660 and B3200. The BX seems more stable going side ways on hillsides but the B does not scare me and does not feel unstable. I just won't drive it across hills, don't have to. As you can see a trailer that would haul one will haul the other one. The weight is not significant between either one. Have traded several times in 6 years so trading difference between a BX or B are slight to no difference when you figure what you pay for a BX and what you pay for a B the trade in value will be about the same amount of cost for time used. The 0% interest for new is the killer for newer trade ins but it's the same for either model. As you can see my choices for tires on each tractor. I don't do ags and never have, leave them for LB but when you study pictures he has some non ags I believe. Jobs determine tires. Ask around your area and talk to tractor owners concerning their issues but always remember to factor in their bias to justify their purchase as has been mentioned here. Also, what are tractor dealers of any brand in your area telling you concerning equipment and tire needs/recommendations.

 

[radioman]

chiming here again- I had my BX without loaded tires for a long time, nearly 2 years and then got them loaded. Talk about a big difference in feel !! I feel its alot better with loaded tires. Perhaps LBrown doesnt do things like we do so there no need for loaded tires for him. I wouldn't worry about getting tires loaded right away if you can't afford it. It always can be added later. At least that is what I did. I was glad I waited too since I was able to get the feel with and without loaded tires and know the REAL difference witht eh same machine!

 

[Mr. Ace]

Nice pics JT. Lots of multiple tractor owners on this site.

For those that have used the BX and B-Series tractors (or other similar tractor makes):

How useful and/or how nice is it to have the 3 range hydrostatic in the B-series vs. the 2 range in the BX?

 

[dodge man]

I don't own a B, but did look at them. In my opinion what make the 3 range nice isn't the top speed, but the middle range. On a BX the low range is pretty slow, and the high range lacks pulling power. On the B the middle range still has enough power for alot of tasks, but enough ground speed to be usefull.

 

[KU Gator]

We looked at a BX24 with the FEL, BH, and MMM but decided in the end on a B2920. Have had if about 16 months and happy with the decision. We still have a J.D. garden mower I use on our 3 acre yard. It has turf tires which are easier the the R4's especially when the ground is wet, but the 2920 does ok mowing. I use it to mow on the 12 acres we have about 30 miles South. With regard to the 3 ranges, I can mow on the grass we have there in high range with the MMM. It is pretty flat and we have mowed it enough and got the rocks out. I make the pass around the edge of the tree lines in mid and then kick it up adjusting the speed with the foot controls. That is the great thing about the hydrostat because you can keep the RPM where you want it and still adjust your speed. I also use the high range when getting from one end of the property to the other or when my grand daughter is riding with me saying "faster Pa". Mid range is good for like saturday I was using the FEL to move dirt from a pile I had made last year to the back of the dam behind the pond. It had enough power to push the bucket forward into the dirt pile and enough speed to go where I was carrying it. I even used the rear blade so smooth it out after I dumped it with mid range. Low is good when using the FEL and the dirt is real hard or using the box blade.

So I think for us the B size was a better choice, even if I skipped the bh for now. I figured it would be easier to add it later and have the right size tractor for now.