Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snow Tricks and Tips

Boondox · Nov 8, 2004

( ( Atkins doesn't allow maple syrup. )

Yeah Pete, didn't you switch to South Beach?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

How's that going by the way? I've just been able to maintain . /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Keep telling Jenny we need to go back and do the first 2 weeks again and get back on track. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif )

I'm thinking of going back on induction as well. I lost 35# and kept it off for the longest time, but then had a weeklong business trip to Minnesota and, well, let's just say that Minnesota is not particularly carb free. We had some glorious desserts that bumped me up 10#, which I've been maintaining back home in Vermont. The problem is, the resolve for going back on Atkins hard core just isn't there this time! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Pete

Syncro · Nov 8, 2004

Boy, reading all these posts makes me a little anxious! Love snow.

As for something to beware of, if you ever have to push snow in an unfamiliar place, eg a parking lot etc, gotta go real slow the first time to avoid hidden obsticles. Things that you aren't aware of and don't see, like high manhole covers, curbs, etc can cause damaging 'sudden stops' and mess up your loader in a blink.

Oh yeah, and don't forget the operator antifreeze (hot toddy) when your done! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

hudley · Nov 8, 2004

No one mentioned a rear mounted snow thrower.

I don't have one but have heard some recommendations. I have a Kubota B7800 w/ FEL and a 3 point rear blade. This should do the trick, but I've not ever used it in snow.

Any specifics about using the FEL in snow? Any advantages to a rear blade? I'm sure I'll figure it out after the first snow flies, but any input would be welcome!

Alan

Boondox · Nov 8, 2004

The answers you get will vary depending on the respondent's conditions and, let's face it, implements. Those with snowthrowers swear by them. Those with rear blades feel the same way, and those with front plow blades and rear throwers...or front throwers and rear blades, swear their setup is the ultimate.

Me, I have 1/4 mile of dirt road and gravel driveway to clear of snow. And while we get plenty of snow, most of it falls in bunches of one foot or less at a time -- most often four inches or less per day. So I could never justify the expense of a snowblower. I drive over the snow using my rear blade angled to clear the snow. Early in the season before the ground is frozen I reverse the blade and use the convex edge so it doesn't dig in and remove all my gravel. Later, when all is frozen solid, I spin the blade around and use the concave edge.

But last winter we had three weeks in a row of minus thirty, and plowing in an open tractor under those conditions was just brutal! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So this year we bought a Curtis plow for our Chevy, and I'll be plowing in the comfort of a heated cab with at least one dog for company.

Good luck! Pete

bczoom · Nov 8, 2004

hudley,

Welcome to TBN.

Rear-mounted snow blowers work very well, but... you're always driving and looking backwards. Awkward and a little hard on the neck and stuff (for us older guys). If you have a FEL and blade, give that a go for awhile before considering a blower.

As for technique using the FEL and blade... a couple things come to mind but these may or may not apply due to your particular circumstances.
For a paved driveway:
Angle your rear blade, set it down and go... I use the FEL for cleanup in areas where it builds up or in corners where the blade is a little slower than the FEL. If you're relatively new to tractors and/or using the blade in snow, you may want to consider removing the pin on the blade (that maintains the angle) and replacing with a cheap 3/8" diameter bolt. Like Syncro stated, sudden stops can cause severe damage. This bolt would then shear so no damage is done.

For a stone/dirt driveway:
I see Pete (Boondox) already wrote a lot of what I was going to say so I'll skip that for now.

What kind of driveway are you looking to clear?

Brian

hudley · Nov 8, 2004

Gravel. About a 1/4 mile total.

I've heard so many things but have not had a chance to actually try any as I've only had my tractor for a couple of months.

Looking forward to snow??? Yup!

Alan

hudley · Nov 8, 2004

Oh,

Thanks for the welcome. This site is a blast!

Alan

bczoom · Nov 8, 2004

I'll let others elaborate on techniques for dealing with a stone driveway. The biggest issue being how to keep the stone in the driveway so you don't spend all spring raking it out. Like Pete said, run the blade backwards until everything is frozen. Another option is using skid plates (similar to what is on truck or ATV plows) which can be mounted and adjusted to keep your blade up a little as well.

At that length, in MI, you'll find it most comfortable driving forward.

83UTVol · Nov 9, 2004

Like Hudley I am new to this forum and also the new owner of a B7800 w/402FEL & 6' rear blade. I appreciate the experience that the others are willing to share. The very same question has been on my mind since I bought my tractor. I have 150' of paved driveway to the road with another 150' of gravel back to my barn so I have both situations.

I was concerned about the blade digging into the asphalt but it appears that maybe that isn't a concern to have... any more thoughts about reversing the blade to have it be convex rather than concave... is it necessary? It is easy enough to swing around (Woods blade... probably like most others)

I have a new driveway anyway and they'll be back to put the topcoat on in the spring so I don't think I'll do any damage that won't get fixed but caution is the better part of valor and I don't like to mess things up if I can avoid it.

The question will be whether I clear the path to the street or the barn first... I think my wife and the horses probably will give me the answer to that.