Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Snow Tricks and Tips

[Boondox]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Atkins doesn't allow maple syrup. )</font>

Yeah Pete, didn't you switch to South Beach?? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

How's that going by the way? I've just been able to maintain . /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Keep telling Jenny we need to go back and do the first 2 weeks again and get back on track. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif )</font>

I'm thinking of going back on induction as well. I lost 35# and kept it off for the longest time, but then had a weeklong business trip to Minnesota and, well, let's just say that Minnesota is not particularly carb free. We had some glorious desserts that bumped me up 10#, which I've been maintaining back home in Vermont. The problem is, the resolve for going back on Atkins hard core just isn't there this time! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Pete

 

[Syncro]

Boy, reading all these posts makes me a little anxious! Love snow.

As for something to beware of, if you ever have to push snow in an unfamiliar place, eg a parking lot etc, gotta go real slow the first time to avoid hidden obsticles. Things that you aren't aware of and don't see, like high manhole covers, curbs, etc can cause damaging 'sudden stops' and mess up your loader in a blink.

Oh yeah, and don't forget the operator antifreeze (hot toddy) when your done! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[hudley]

No one mentioned a rear mounted snow thrower.

I don't have one but have heard some recommendations. I have a Kubota B7800 w/ FEL and a 3 point rear blade. This should do the trick, but I've not ever used it in snow.

Any specifics about using the FEL in snow? Any advantages to a rear blade? I'm sure I'll figure it out after the first snow flies, but any input would be welcome!

Alan

 

[Boondox]

The answers you get will vary depending on the respondent's conditions and, let's face it, implements. Those with snowthrowers swear by them. Those with rear blades feel the same way, and those with front plow blades and rear throwers...or front throwers and rear blades, swear their setup is the ultimate.

Me, I have 1/4 mile of dirt road and gravel driveway to clear of snow. And while we get plenty of snow, most of it falls in bunches of one foot or less at a time -- most often four inches or less per day. So I could never justify the expense of a snowblower. I drive over the snow using my rear blade angled to clear the snow. Early in the season before the ground is frozen I reverse the blade and use the convex edge so it doesn't dig in and remove all my gravel. Later, when all is frozen solid, I spin the blade around and use the concave edge.

But last winter we had three weeks in a row of minus thirty, and plowing in an open tractor under those conditions was just brutal! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So this year we bought a Curtis plow for our Chevy, and I'll be plowing in the comfort of a heated cab with at least one dog for company.

Good luck! Pete

 

[bczoom]

hudley,

Welcome to TBN.

Rear-mounted snow blowers work very well, but... you're always driving and looking backwards. Awkward and a little hard on the neck and stuff (for us older guys). If you have a FEL and blade, give that a go for awhile before considering a blower.

As for technique using the FEL and blade... a couple things come to mind but these may or may not apply due to your particular circumstances.
For a paved driveway:
Angle your rear blade, set it down and go... I use the FEL for cleanup in areas where it builds up or in corners where the blade is a little slower than the FEL. If you're relatively new to tractors and/or using the blade in snow, you may want to consider removing the pin on the blade (that maintains the angle) and replacing with a cheap 3/8" diameter bolt. Like Syncro stated, sudden stops can cause severe damage. This bolt would then shear so no damage is done.

For a stone/dirt driveway:
I see Pete (Boondox) already wrote a lot of what I was going to say so I'll skip that for now.

What kind of driveway are you looking to clear?

Brian

 

[hudley]

Gravel. About a 1/4 mile total.

I've heard so many things but have not had a chance to actually try any as I've only had my tractor for a couple of months.

Looking forward to snow??? Yup!

Alan

 

[hudley]

Oh,

Thanks for the welcome. This site is a blast!

Alan

 

[bczoom]

I'll let others elaborate on techniques for dealing with a stone driveway. The biggest issue being how to keep the stone in the driveway so you don't spend all spring raking it out. Like Pete said, run the blade backwards until everything is frozen. Another option is using skid plates (similar to what is on truck or ATV plows) which can be mounted and adjusted to keep your blade up a little as well.

At that length, in MI, you'll find it most comfortable driving forward.

 

[83UTVol]

Like Hudley I am new to this forum and also the new owner of a B7800 w/402FEL & 6' rear blade. I appreciate the experience that the others are willing to share. The very same question has been on my mind since I bought my tractor. I have 150' of paved driveway to the road with another 150' of gravel back to my barn so I have both situations.

I was concerned about the blade digging into the asphalt but it appears that maybe that isn't a concern to have... any more thoughts about reversing the blade to have it be convex rather than concave... is it necessary? It is easy enough to swing around (Woods blade... probably like most others)

I have a new driveway anyway and they'll be back to put the topcoat on in the spring so I don't think I'll do any damage that won't get fixed but caution is the better part of valor and I don't like to mess things up if I can avoid it.

The question will be whether I clear the path to the street or the barn first... I think my wife and the horses probably will give me the answer to that.

 

[ronjhall]

Here is a thread about blade edges that may help if your concered about tearing up your drive.
1st report on FEL edge guard

 

[83UTVol]

Thanks... I went through the posts... choices...you gotta love America! so many choices...so little time. I guess I really just have to try it and see what happens... then use some of these ideas if I don't like the results with just the bare blade. I appreciate the link to the posts.

 

[bczoom]

83UTVol,

Welcome to TBN.

For a paved (blacktop) driveway, many I know just run the blade over it. If you have a crown, you may want to consider putting skid plates on and use to raise your blade a little. Being nice and black, the sun will bake off the remainder.

When using the blade in its concave setting, it's also a common practice for any kind of driveway to try and get the blade where it contacts the driveway as vertical as possible. Then it'll just scrape instead of trying to dig. Shorten the top link to do so.

 

[83UTVol]

The driveway doesn't have much of a crown to speak of but maybe while things are clear I'll do some "test" checks up and down the driveway by putting blade down and seeing how flat it really is from the center.

Thanks for the tip in shortening the top link... I have it pretty far out now as I am using it to widen our riding ring and am trying to get it to dig... I might not have thought to reset it for snow so maybe you just saved me from digging up a piece of asphalt!

 

[BXRICK]

I move snow with a BX1500, FEL, and Back Blade.
My drive is 1/4 mile, dirt/gravel, and hardly level or hole-free (gotta get on that next year).

Mostly, I use the back blade, driving backwards. A little tough on the neck, but really not that bad.
The drive is level. I use FWD, turf tires, no chains. Haven't had a problem yet.
I use the FEL for cleaning up around the mailbox, the plow drift from the town, and backdragging around the house and garage.
The back blade has skid shoes on it, adjusted to leave the blade just off the ground when level.
You can get a good idea what will happen to your drive simply by doing a trial run with no snow. Obviously, once the ground freezes, nothing will happen to your drive.

Since a back blade (Woods, 60") for a BX1500 isn't very tall, I added a 12 gauge extension to the blade, which almost doubles its height.

Probably the most important thing is to make sure your tractor will start when you need it to - no point in having a great setup that won't run, regardless of the weather.

There's plenty of info on the various boards here about that. Basically: good winter fuel, probably an additive, block heater, and make sure you start it occasionally, even if it doesn't snow.

 

[83UTVol]

What about the various ideas for using rubber matting (or conveyer belt) to create a squegee effect?... I haven't gone out to find matting yet but do have a local quarry where I might be able to pick some up relatively cheaply...

Out of all the threads mentioning doing this does anyone have a sure fired way that will minimize the amount of time I have to spend trying different options...

Just forget about it and use the bare blade on the driveway??

 

[bczoom]

There's an active thread discussing rubber matting.
Horse Mat...

For "Just forget about it and use the bare blade on the driveway??" That one is up to you. Depends on how much time and stuff you have to spend on changing your blade.

 

[rameye]

BXRICK,

I'd like to see a photo of your height extension one day...

 

[83UTVol]

I'll second that request for a photo of the extension... I have a Woods 72" blade & I'm not sure what I'll end up doing in regards to putting a rubber guard on it... there are plenty of posts explaining what others have done for snow... what I'll have time for will determine what I end up doing...seems like my list and the list my wife has for me don't always match real well...but as long as I get to use the tractor then maybe it doesn't matter /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[WVBartMan]

I have two different tractors for plowing, depending on the job. My house is on top of the mountain (4,000 feet elevation) and my driveway to the main road is around 2 miles down, thankfully it is all paved. I use a Kubota L5030 with a 8' wide power angle Curtis snow plow mounted on my FEL for the driveway.

The second tractor is a New Holland 8970 with a 12' wide plow for plowing the mountain road in deep snow. The state hires me to plow a ridge road that is 26 miles long. Once the snow gets over 8 inches, the drifts on this road can reach over 6' deep due to the high wind on the ridges. The state trucks in the past get hung up or end up over the hill so they would rather contract it out. Lucky for me, I have no competition so I can charge enough to make a little money to support my habit ( buying attachments).

The great thing is, I have in my contract that I'm not responsible for any damage caused by the Tractor to the highway, mailboxes or cars buried in the drifts. The state signed off on it and picked up the insurance to cover me for plowing. The answer is yes, I have found several cars in drifts and do my best to limit any damage.

Looking forward to seeing some white stuff on Thursday/Turkey Day.

C:\Kubota\Snow Plow.jpg

 

[GoodGuy]

Have you got any pics of your 12ga add-on for your backblade ??? I've been thinking of an addition to mine. Any pics would be appreciated.