Just my 2 cents
I use 'duo grip' v bar type (eg cross links every 3rd link) with great success an even the hardest blue ice after an ice storm.
Origionally the chains were standard cross link arrangement and I found that climbing slopes the space between cross links was just enough to create a short 'slip or skip' that would induce a skid so I added the extra cross links.
Results were excellent and the ride is much smoother when driving to next site.(I maintain 3 properties that require some travel)
A word of caution:
Most 4wd CUTS have much weaker front drive trains as they are designed to 'assist' rather than really work.
Just look at the wheel size differance as compared to a front end loader.
I believe that chains on the front could really contribute to damage to the front drive train. (don't ask why I know)
The answer is really rear weight and good chains.
A buddy who has a front mounted blower just had the whole front end break loose on his 500hr 2 year old tractor!
I will cost him a rad, fan assy, plus lots of misc parts and labor.
He is probably facing a $3000. repair bill.
The dealer reminded him that a tractor is meant to pull implements as the basic design is for farming.
A front blower really hangs out far and is very heavy to boot.
Also very combersome in tight spots.
The ultimate combination is a rear blower combined with a front plow!
The plow is quick working and the blower gets rid of the accumulated piles.
PLow truck contractors will NEVER install chains on the front!
Maybe studs are the answer.
Or try sheet metal screws drilled into the front lugs, they are hardened steed and the tire lugs have so much rubber that there is no danger of the screws penetrating the air chamber.
Just my thoughts.
Good luck!
