Snow snow chain modification

/ snow chain modification #1  

2516mo

Bronze Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
57
Location
Missouri
Tractor
2010 mahindra 2516 gear
I think I will be making the right decision, but would like to make sure. When putting on my snow chains, and to get them good and snug, I have to connect them past the first cross chain....so obviously too long. So I just need to cut the excess making sure they are on properly before I make and cut them. I also so I am not overlooking something and ruin my chains.
 
/ snow chain modification #2  
Why cut them at all? Just get small clevis and tie the loose end to the side chain. Bungee cords are your friends when it comes to chains.
 
/ snow chain modification #3  
I have 8-10 inches extra and just electrical ties them to the chain itself.
 
/ snow chain modification #4  
" I have to connect them past the first cross chain...." You won't be able to tie that back. Cut it off or spread the links and take the cross chain off if you want to keep some extra chain length.
 
/ snow chain modification #5  
Leave them a little long then lay them up against the tire chain and safety wire them good and tight a few places.
 
/ snow chain modification #6  
If you have tires with lugs of any kind as opposed to turf tires, you don't want your chains "good and tight" You'll get better traction with chains a bit loose. Zip ties are good to tie off extra links. I have no side tensioners on my chains at all.
 
/ snow chain modification #8  
This is a great thread; thanks!

I used my 3016 for snow-removal for the first time this weekend and it became apparent how valuable a set of chains would be on a sloped and paved driveway. The time it took to get back up the driveway seemed to take twice as long as it takes when done on dry or non-snowy pavement. All 4 tires were spinning and a bucket full of snow helped a little. I didn't have the box blade mounted so I imagine the 500 pounds would have helped a little as well.

Very valuable thread; much thanks.
 
/ snow chain modification #9  
This is a great thread; thanks!

I used my 3016 for snow-removal for the first time this weekend and it became apparent how valuable a set of chains would be on a sloped and paved driveway. The time it took to get back up the driveway seemed to take twice as long as it takes when done on dry or non-snowy pavement. All 4 tires were spinning and a bucket full of snow helped a little. I didn't have the box blade mounted so I imagine the 500 pounds would have helped a little as well.

Very valuable thread; much thanks.

If you have hills you wont believe how much difference a set of chains will make. Night and Day.
 
/ snow chain modification
  • Thread Starter
#10  
Great info! I appreciate the experience...I do have one follow up question.

I do have two bungie cords on the outside of each wheel (criss crossed), but can you use them on the inside? I do think if I did it would help keep the chains centered. and I see where the additional bungies or ties for the loose ends would help keep the loose ends from flapping.
 
/ snow chain modification #11  
Great info! I appreciate the experience...I do have one follow up question.

I do have two bungie cords on the outside of each wheel (criss crossed), but can you use them on the inside? I do think if I did it would help keep the chains centered. and I see where the additional bungies or ties for the loose ends would help keep the loose ends from flapping.

You normally don't need them on the inside. If you think about the circle of the chain edges formed by the joining of the inner edge chain ends together and with tension on the outside pulling against it. how can the inner circle move, as it is under tension and cannot slip over the edge of the tire. If the outside tension is even the inside should not migrate. I don't think I explained this very well, but hey I gave it a shot.:)
 
/ snow chain modification #12  
I do use Bungee cords to take up slack of chain on the sides 2-3 per side.It makes a big difference.
 
/ snow chain modification #13  
i had trouble with bungee cords getting too cold and brittle.then losing their retraction strength. I like the spring tensioners i have now. they suck to install, but never loosen up.

_MG_5487.jpg
 
/ snow chain modification #15  
Great info! I appreciate the experience...I do have one follow up question.

I do have two bungie cords on the outside of each wheel (criss crossed), but can you use them on the inside? I do think if I did it would help keep the chains centered. and I see where the additional bungies or ties for the loose ends would help keep the loose ends from flapping.
Imagine a clock....1st cord/bungie 9-2, second one 10-3, third one 11-4 and so on. If you have 5 bungies on the inside, then put 5 on the outside. I had a set of way too big chains on my Farmall that came off a skidder and they worked real good for me using that pattern.
I still have those chains and I will be putting them on my Kioti for next winter. Along with the chains I have for my Jeep which are for 15" tires. The Kioti fronts are 14's.
 
/ snow chain modification #17  
If you have tires with lugs of any kind as opposed to turf tires, you don't want your chains "good and tight" You'll get better traction with chains a bit loose. Zip ties are good to tie off extra links. I have no side tensioners on my chains at all.

+1 on this. Had mine too tight and found they had an opposite effect on traction.

Pulled off the Bungee "tensioners" and loosened a link and my world was rocked. 10x better.

I too use cable zips to tie up the extra chain.

-J
 
/ snow chain modification #18  
+1 on this. Had mine too tight and found they had an opposite effect on traction.

Pulled off the Bungee "tensioners" and loosened a link and my world was rocked. 10x better.

I too use cable zips to tie up the extra chain.

-J

Okay, I will sit corrected. AND I will keep that in mind for next winter.
I learned on truck tires.
 

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