Smart Shop tips!

[Doofy]

I love when the brain spits out a solution to even a simple problem. Way to go!

 

[the old grind]

Sorry, no pics. Yes, sharpen just like a pocket knife.

Yep. Hold the blade in the saw for a firm grip and run it across a grinding wheel or a belt-sander of almost any configuration. (blue or green belts for hand-helds)

.. in a sand blast cabinet .. The BEST fix for protecting the glass was a roll of Mylar. Held up great and never replaced a glass again.

IIRC the ones we buy for this are acetate. Agree 100% we have to have something. Like with welding lenses, a layer of poly is cheaper to replace.

... while trying to squirt some foam sealant in spots that the supplied tube wouldn't allow me to reach. I went to my container that holds all kinds of spare straws, tubes, etc and found one that came close to match the one I needed to extend.

I fired up the hair dryer and heated it enough that I was able to force the factory one into it. Held it for a minute, and Voila. Extended snout and something to shout about.

I've taped a few 'extensions' together when spraying wasp nests, deep invasions into walls & ceilings, etc. I say enough of that gooey mess, and thanks for the tip.

 

[rangerfredbob]

For headlight lenses, I've had reasonable luck with some 0000 steel wool and water, that takes the heavy oxidation off and leaves a good finish. Of course there's nothing protecting the finish so it doesn't last forever... That said, I have like 4 cars that need some attention in the headlight department, I'll probably start there to get the heavy stuff off and use one of the kits to finish them off.

 

[dieselscout80]

I had a great visionary experience the other day while trying to squirt some foam sealant in spots that the supplied tube wouldn't allow me to reach. I went to my container that holds all kinds of spare straws, tubes, etc and found one that came close to match the one I needed to extend.
I fired up the hair dryer and heated it enough that I was able to force the factory one into it. Held it for a minute, and Voila. Extended snout and something to shout about.

:thumbsup:

I did that except with some clear tube/hose to reach into some tight spots.

 

[pmsmechanic]

For headlight lenses, I've had reasonable luck with some 0000 steel wool and water, that takes the heavy oxidation off and leaves a good finish. Of course there's nothing protecting the finish so it doesn't last forever... That said, I have like 4 cars that need some attention in the headlight department, I'll probably start there to get the heavy stuff off and use one of the kits to finish them off.

I've heard that a coat of clearcoat will keep the headlights from oxidizing again.

 

[dougtrr2]

I have one of those flexible magnetic grabber finger tools. I had never found a good spot to store it. I realized the Craftsman tool box had a cup holder that I never used. I drilled a hole in it and now my grabber tool hangs right there where I can find it.

Doug in SW IA

 

[The Magic Ratchet]

For headlight lenses, I've had reasonable luck with some 0000 steel wool and water, that takes the heavy oxidation off and leaves a good finish. Of course there's nothing protecting the finish so it doesn't last forever... That said, I have like 4 cars that need some attention in the headlight department, I'll probably start there to get the heavy stuff off and use one of the kits to finish them off.

For badly clouded headlights, you can start off even more aggressive than steel wool. Start with 400 or 500 sandpaper and gradually work your way through 800, 1000, all the way to 3000. The 3M kit used to come with the sandpaper included. Once you have it sanded at the finest grit, then switch to the special polishing compound for the plastic. At this point your lights should look almost like new. Finally coat with the sealant that comes with the compound and your lights should last about a year. After a year, they may need a touch-up but won't be nearly as bad as when you started.

Lou Manglass

 

[Ken45101]

Fire extinguisher is very important. I have mine where I can get it on the way OUT of the building. Can be seen in the background here. Really should be a larger unit though.

It's good to have an extinguisher accessible if your way out is blocked!

Note the ratings on the extinguisher. Many are rated for liquids and electrical ONLY (e.g. 5BC). Such an extinguisher is NOT rated for solid fuel fires (wood, paper, etc.) The "A" rating is for solid fuels and is typically rated much less (1A:5BC). I really like to have an old pressured water extinguisher in the shop although I have to bring it into the house in winter.

As for electrical fire ratings, the first step is always to remove the electrical power. At that point, it is no longer a class C fire, it's usually a class A fire, so your 5BC extinguisher is no longer appropriate.

Ken

 

[bigtiller]

It's good to have an extinguisher accessible if your way out is blocked!

Note the ratings on the extinguisher. Many are rated for liquids and electrical ONLY (e.g. 5BC). Such an extinguisher is NOT rated for solid fuel fires (wood, paper, etc.) The "A" rating is for solid fuels and is typically rated much less (1A:5BC). I really like to have an old pressured water extinguisher in the shop although I have to bring it into the house in winter.

As for electrical fire ratings, the first step is always to remove the electrical power. At that point, it is no longer a class C fire, it's usually a class A fire, so your 5BC extinguisher is no longer appropriate.

Ken

I have one in my shop also, I filled it with distilled water and a squirt of dish soap. To avoid having to bring it in out of the cold, is it advisable to fill them with winterized windshield washer fluid?

 

[Doofy]

You can never have to many fire extinguishers. I have them strategically placed in the garage and house. I also have smoke/fire detectors that communicate with each other. If the detector in the garage (detached) goes off, it sets off the one in the house also. No such thing as being over prepared when fire is concerned.

 

[the old grind]

I have one in my shop also, I filled it with distilled water and a squirt of dish soap. To avoid having to bring it in out of the cold, is it advisable to fill them with winterized windshield washer fluid?

If WWF contains alky to prevent freezing IMO it'd be risky to throw that on a fire. Seems the heat would evaporate it quickly and the vapor could ignite if the flames or embers aren't snuffed cold at the first squirt.

Suppose a guy builds an insulated box for a FE and wraps a thermostatic 'no-freeze' heat tape around the canister to use plain water? Built of metal or of 1/4" plywood that's been sprayed with a strong solution of borax & water vs paint. Lined with 1/2" or so poly-iso and with a refrigerator thermometer in there to monitor temps at a glance. When it gets too cold out, a second tape may make a difference. They should cycle off above freezing vs need timers.

 

[Doofy]

These are what I am using in my detached garage. They communicate wirelessly with the detectors in the house so if one goes off, they all go off. Peace of mind is worth a lot.
Kidde 2144 Wireless Interconnect Battery Operated Smoke Detector Alarm | - - Amazon.com

 

[Ken45101]

I have one in my shop also, I filled it with distilled water and a squirt of dish soap. To avoid having to bring it in out of the cold, is it advisable to fill them with winterized windshield washer fluid?

I think windshield washer solution has alcohol to prevent freezing. That might not be the best fire fighting approach. Besides it might be bad on the seals in the extinguisher.

I was told to add some baking soda to the water to keep it fresh. That might also generate a little CO2 which is good for firefighting.

I was given my one pressurized water extinguisher 40 years ago. It's held up fine. I bought another one a few years ago on Amazon. Not cheap, but inexpensive and easy to recharge unlike the dry chem extinguishers. BTW, if you ever partially discharge a dry chem extinguisher, even just a little, it needs to be professionally recharged. The dry chemicals will prevent a good resealing of the valve.

 

[bigtiller]

Okay, I'm glad I asked. No WWF in the fire extinguisher.

These things are expensive but they sure are nice to have setting at the ready.....and fun to play with on a hot summer day.

 

[Doofy]

I had several old pump-up type garden sprayers that I converted over to tire valves. I siliconed the bottom flapper check valve on the old pump where it couldn't leak pressure. Works great for hosing things down. Would also work as a first line fire extinguisher.

 

[Big Barn]

Fire extinguisher is very important. I have mine where I can get it on the way OUT of the building. .

Same.






Plus a few others in areas I deemed strategic.

 

[Citydude]

Same.

View attachment 680814


View attachment 680815

Plus a few others in areas I deemed strategic.

Providing your 6.5 foot tall I probably wouldn’t be able to reach those.

 

[Fuddy1952]

This is a real simple tip.
Years ago my Grandad cut two pieces of 1/8th" copper width of vice then folded over. About 6"x2"×2". We used them all the time if you wanted to clamp but not mar or scratch something.

 

[Big Barn]

Providing your 6.5 foot tall I probably wouldn’t be able to reach those.

Nope. Easy reach and I'm a short azz

 

[fried1765]

If WWF contains alky to prevent freezing IMO it'd be risky to throw that on a fire. Seems the heat would evaporate it quickly and the vapor could ignite if the flames or embers aren't snuffed cold at the first squirt.

Suppose a guy builds an insulated box for a FE and wraps a thermostatic 'no-freeze' heat tape around the canister to use plain water? Built of metal or of 1/4" plywood that's been sprayed with a strong solution of borax & water vs paint. Lined with 1/2" or so poly-iso and with a refrigerator thermometer in there to monitor temps at a glance. When it gets too cold out, a second tape may make a difference. They should cycle off above freezing vs need timers.

WOW....that sure seems like a handy setup.